3-point SFC's or standard SFC's
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3-point SFC's or standard SFC's
I am wondering what style SFC's to get? The 3-points or the standards. If you guys can give me some info (pro's and cons) that would be great.!! Thanks!
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any sfc are a benefit to the car
2 point are generally lighter
as far as i'm concerned the 3points are a waste on all but the most extreme cars. that 3rd connection point is the tunnel brace mount...which is relatively thin metal to begin with. the only way i can see that being any stronger is if you install an aftermarket tunnel brace along with the SFC.
i installed BMR boxed sfc, which stiffened up the car significantly. and i lost almost no ground clearance.
2 point are generally lighter
as far as i'm concerned the 3points are a waste on all but the most extreme cars. that 3rd connection point is the tunnel brace mount...which is relatively thin metal to begin with. the only way i can see that being any stronger is if you install an aftermarket tunnel brace along with the SFC.
i installed BMR boxed sfc, which stiffened up the car significantly. and i lost almost no ground clearance.
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Get the weld in if you really want SFC's. I found that I didn't need them though after I put on my koni's. The only reason I can think of for really "needing" 3pt's is if you have a tunnel mounted torque arm. The reason I say this is the floor pan isn't very well reinforced here so it would help as a strengthener. I would stay away from a tunnel mounted arm for a street car though as they can contribute to brake induced wheel hop (unless you get the Unbalanced Engineering decoupling arm for the price of your right arm). The Boxed 2pt arms are very nice for a jacking rail though and are almost woth it for that alone and BMR's SFC's are not a bad option. Probably more info than you needed... sorry.
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these guys are right. if you have a tunnel brace mounted torque arm and aftermarket tunnel brace then it 3 points work more to your advantage being in a sense that the weight will distribue more evently. if you dont plan on getting a tunnel brace mounted torque arm then your better off with 2 points. if your interested in some 3 points i have some for sale they are brand new from umi.
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2 pts. are cheaper to buy and ship
3 pts. are stronger
Simply put, if you feel the car needs to be improved in terms of chassis stiffness how can you not opt for 3 pts.? The only reason to run 2 pts. is cost. They cost less because there is not as much to them.
I'm not saying that 2 pts. are bad. Hell, I think in a number of cases SFC's are not required or needed. I'm simply saying you need to weigh what you want to improve and what it's worth to you.
But if you run a tunnel mount TA, I feel 3 pts. are a must do.
3 pts. are stronger
Simply put, if you feel the car needs to be improved in terms of chassis stiffness how can you not opt for 3 pts.? The only reason to run 2 pts. is cost. They cost less because there is not as much to them.
I'm not saying that 2 pts. are bad. Hell, I think in a number of cases SFC's are not required or needed. I'm simply saying you need to weigh what you want to improve and what it's worth to you.
But if you run a tunnel mount TA, I feel 3 pts. are a must do.
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#9
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Hello,
If you are running any type of shorter tunnel mounted torque arm I recommend the 3-Point SFC's since they bolt under the torque arm mounts to prevent stress to the floor of the vehicle. Other than that the 2-Point set-ups will be just fine.
We offer a large selection of SFC's seen here- http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=129
If you have any questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
If you are running any type of shorter tunnel mounted torque arm I recommend the 3-Point SFC's since they bolt under the torque arm mounts to prevent stress to the floor of the vehicle. Other than that the 2-Point set-ups will be just fine.
We offer a large selection of SFC's seen here- http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=129
If you have any questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan