Dip Stick

iTrader: (1)

Problem: Rear wheels won't turn. The rear wheel well height looks like it has a 6" lift kit on it.

WHat I did to mess it up.. : toook off poly/rod adjustable lca's and put on poly/poly non adjustbale lca's. Removed driveshaft & torque arm, so I can do a tranny/clutch repair & replacement.

Jacked the car up, put stands on the subframe connectors. Removed both old lca's. Had torque arm ad driveshaft off the car. M6 was in neutral *chuckles*, and we had the handbrake on to remove the wheels for easier acces to lca's. The new lca's didnt fit, seemed to be too long, but this seemed normal, cause when we removed the old lca's the rear end seemed to move down and forward.

We use a bottle jack to lift the rear end up @ the base where the springs meet the rearend. Then we had to pull back on the brakes to get enough distance to line up the holes for the new lca's.

When they were bolted down, and we took the car off the jacks.. bam! The rearend seemed to have shifted to the passenger side about 1". Also the rear suspension height of the car looked like it was the victim of a 6" lift kit. The wheel well fromt he top of the rear tires to the top of the rim of the wheel well looks like it has enough room to fit my head in it. Also with the handbrake down, the car wouldnt roll forward. I checked to ensure there were no wheel chocks in the way etc.. and she wouldnt budge... in fact the kwiklift with the casters on it, rolled/moved before the car would. This was not an issue beforehand, as I rolld it to position it better for the crossmember/jackstand.

Ideas:
-Springs arent seated right somehow at both the top and bottom of their housings.
-Shocks, sine the car's rear suspension was fully unloaed, perhaps somehow the shocks got overextended and are bent/messed up.. *just reaching here*
-tools left in there somehow *looked and nope*
-perhaps the rear diff/yoke/pinion angle has somehow twisted when I used the rearend's spiring base housing as the lift point.
-Perhaps when having to pull back the rear end, I am putting undo stress on the actuator/wire for the handbrake and its acting like the handbrake is pulled up. Maybe I need to loosed/adjust or undo the wire at the actuator/handbrake to ease the tension on it to see if that helps fix it.
-Perhaps since the rearend is off, maybe the wheels are toed out enough both to the outside, maybe to an extent where they wont roll... *reaching here*

Please gimme some advice

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

check your springs and the ebrake cable. the shocks arent going to be messed up and theres no reason for the car not to roll w/o the d/s and t/q arm in there. i bet the ebrake is stuck and your springs fell backward and arent sitting in the pocket. theres no way the wheels are toed out or you bent any part of the rearend.

Undertow74

iTrader: (45)

You say it looks like the rear end has shifted about an inch to the passenger side..... Check your Panhard Bar, Sounds like its out of adjustment(if it is adjustable). May have come loose and shifted when you were working on it.

I know i have to Adjust my rear end tommorrow, mine is off an inch if not more, i replaced my PHB a week and a half ago, and i must have not tightend the jam nuts enough the first time .

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Depending on how far you "dropped" the rear end, even with the e-brake disengaged, you've potentially got tension on the e-brake cables, so the wheels won't turn....

Dip Stick

iTrader: (1)

Well, the funny thing happened.

After a good nights sleep, we jacked up the car, checked the cable tension, rocked te different wheels around and everything looked fine. What was wrong was the wheels/top of the rims were grinding up against the wheels stops in he rear.

So I am in the process of removing the bump stops and grinding that metal down.

Dosnt look like the car has apparently ever bottomed out by the looks of it,.. but then you never really know.