Who does Roll cages here?
the one from Jegs probably wont be jig notched, probably wont be as good a fit as a custom one or a wolfe prefab one. and mostly they probably don't carry any kind of warranty etc for workmanship or materials.
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From: Gainesville, Denton TX
Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
You get what you pay for!!!!!!! A cage is not something to cut corners on if you want a quality one that serves the purpose of saving your life or leaving you crippled.
Dave
Dave
Thanks again guys.... great feedback!!! Is it true that with a cage you dont need sub-frame connectors?
What do you reccomend... I will be in the 10 sec bracket soon... but may make the 9's some day down the road.
What do you reccomend... I will be in the 10 sec bracket soon... but may make the 9's some day down the road.
You won't *need* subframe connectors if your side bars on the cage are welded in place. No swing-outs or bolt-on sidebars. But, it sure doesn't hurt to have both subframes and a cage for ultimate chassis stiffness.
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From: Houston / University of Texas, Austin
Originally Posted by Nine Ball
You won't *need* subframe connectors if your side bars on the cage are welded in place. No swing-outs or bolt-on sidebars. But, it sure doesn't hurt to have both subframes and a cage for ultimate chassis stiffness.
Ok that being said.... do I get a 6 point till I am capable of sub-10 second times then upgrade to 10? Can you upgrade a 6 to a 10? Or do I just need to go straight 10?
i would go 6pt until you absolutely need it. you can have a 6pt converter into a 10pt, a buddy of mine who owns a shop will be doing that pretty soon himself. the reason i would hold off on the 10pt is that it requires pulling the dash and cutting the dash etc and i'd just wait until that's a total necessity to do it. let me know if you need them, i have some decent pics of my 10pt cage wolfe did at their old shop without the dash in the car to give you an idea of where they cut etc.
Another vote for Bill Buck @ Texas Motorsports. I've been by the shop and talked to him many times in person(at the races and at the shop.) Not onlo does he do some awesome work, hes a really nice guy who really loves what he does.
Arron
Arron
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From: Gainesville, Denton TX
Originally Posted by liftin'em on nittos
i would go 6pt until you absolutely need it. you can have a 6pt converter into a 10pt, a buddy of mine who owns a shop will be doing that pretty soon himself. the reason i would hold off on the 10pt is that it requires pulling the dash and cutting the dash etc and i'd just wait until that's a total necessity to do it. let me know if you need them, i have some decent pics of my 10pt cage wolfe did at their old shop without the dash in the car to give you an idea of where they cut etc.
shows his pics at first, lower down some of my pics where you can see the TTFSFCs
Originally Posted by liftin'em on nittos
the reason i would hold off on the 10pt is that it requires pulling the dash and cutting the dash etc and i'd just wait until that's a total necessity to do it.
Originally Posted by | Powered by Satan |
is this for a drag car or a road racing car? there might be diff specs for diff purposes
Originally Posted by | Powered by Satan |
is this for a drag car or a road racing car? there might be diff specs for diff purposes
That is not a 10-pt. drag racing cage. That is not 35.5 spec. It would not pass tech for drag racing.