Fender rolling methods?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: NW Houston/Nacogdoches, Texas
Fender rolling methods? I recently lowered my car with coilovers and got some of those super fat 315 GSD3's for the rear. I already did the BFH mod. So my fender lip still contacts my rear tires when cornering hard.
I really want to roll the lips up flat
(I don't want to use a fender roller b/c of $$$ restraints and I hear that they are mechanically incapable of rolling the lips completley flat)
So, guys, help me out with some ghetto methods of rolling my fender lips!
I've heard of:
1. Baseball bat method? Can someone explain this in detail?
2. Using Vice grips?? Explain this too, please...
3. Cutting lip into sections then hammering them up? ( I really don't want to use this method)
4. Some strange method of loading the rear and placing an object in b/w so the lips are pushed up under pressure?????
5. Take steriods and do forearm workouts for a year until I can lift my car up and bend the lip up with my teeth?
I would really appreciate any help you can give me. I really want to be able to have my suspension travel as freely as possible without contacting the lip. The offset of my Fikse's (46mm??, 38mm??? not sure...) puts the wheel/tire directly at the egde of the fender (especially with GSD3's) . I sometimes just (eyeballing it) think that even with the lips rolled or hammered or pushed completely flat, there will still not be enough clearance for my tire to tuck in or avoid contact with the fender lip.
I really want to roll the lips up flat
(I don't want to use a fender roller b/c of $$$ restraints and I hear that they are mechanically incapable of rolling the lips completley flat)
So, guys, help me out with some ghetto methods of rolling my fender lips!
I've heard of:
1. Baseball bat method? Can someone explain this in detail?
2. Using Vice grips?? Explain this too, please...
3. Cutting lip into sections then hammering them up? ( I really don't want to use this method)
4. Some strange method of loading the rear and placing an object in b/w so the lips are pushed up under pressure?????
5. Take steriods and do forearm workouts for a year until I can lift my car up and bend the lip up with my teeth?
I would really appreciate any help you can give me. I really want to be able to have my suspension travel as freely as possible without contacting the lip. The offset of my Fikse's (46mm??, 38mm??? not sure...) puts the wheel/tire directly at the egde of the fender (especially with GSD3's) . I sometimes just (eyeballing it) think that even with the lips rolled or hammered or pushed completely flat, there will still not be enough clearance for my tire to tuck in or avoid contact with the fender lip.
Look don't do any of the ones listed unless you are ready to have some paint work done. PM Nine Ball he has a fender roller I think he will rent it out. It bolts to your axle and has a hard roller to gently roll the fenders as much or little as you want with a heat gun to keep the paint from cracking etc... I helped Crager do his and it worked great and didn't take to long and no real damage.
Jeff
Jeff
i did it the ghetto method and it worked perfectly for me. I used a hammer with duct tape padding onthe head, slowly hammer in sweeps. I used a blow torch (lol) to as a heat gun because i didnt have one. I didnt put the flame on it, just the heat. and I slowly hammered it, replacing the duct tape to keep a padding so it didnt chip the paint, and I was able to bend the lip to just about vertical.
I posted a thing about my experice and put a picture up, I dont have time to search but if you want to see the pics do it.
no paint chips, no bends in the paint etc. just nice smooth fender lip!
edit- heres the pictures I have from doing it. you cant really see it like you can in person but heres something
the electrical tape was put there to check to see if the tire rubs on that part and it dosent
I posted a thing about my experice and put a picture up, I dont have time to search but if you want to see the pics do it.
no paint chips, no bends in the paint etc. just nice smooth fender lip!
edit- heres the pictures I have from doing it. you cant really see it like you can in person but heres something
the electrical tape was put there to check to see if the tire rubs on that part and it dosent
Last edited by BigSteele; Dec 13, 2005 at 11:51 PM.
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From: Gainesville, Denton TX
Originally Posted by Inspector12
Look don't do any of the ones listed unless you are ready to have some paint work done. PM Nine Ball he has a fender roller I think he will rent it out. It bolts to your axle and has a hard roller to gently roll the fenders as much or little as you want with a heat gun to keep the paint from cracking etc... I helped Crager do his and it worked great and didn't take to long and no real damage.
Jeff
Jeff
Very nice tool too. Red 01 WS6 has one I believe and his fenders look perfect.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,326
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From: NW Houston/Nacogdoches, Texas
Originally Posted by stang killer
Do you have a rod ended PHB, one with the good rod ends?
Yeah, I got a rod ended one from UMI per your advice. It's centered perfectly, the tires are just too damn fat.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,326
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From: NW Houston/Nacogdoches, Texas
Originally Posted by stang killer
yea thoes tires are big as **** for 315's. When are you gona be in town?
Originally Posted by Slammed-am
...the tires are just too damn fat.
now a girl...that's a different story 
Post up after your done rolling, Ive got the same set going on the back of my stock height car VERY soon...I plan on lowering it shortly after.
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I've used the wooden bat method, worked pretty well on an S10 and a CTS.
Basically, you use two people. 1 to drive, the other to hold the bat. Put the bat between the wheel and the fender, and apply pressure. Then have the person SLOWLY roll the car forward to the bat will roll it's way down the fender. Use a wooden bat (softer, less chips). Although, this won't work if you don't have enough room between the fender and wheel.
Although, the tool probably is the better way.
Basically, you use two people. 1 to drive, the other to hold the bat. Put the bat between the wheel and the fender, and apply pressure. Then have the person SLOWLY roll the car forward to the bat will roll it's way down the fender. Use a wooden bat (softer, less chips). Although, this won't work if you don't have enough room between the fender and wheel.
Although, the tool probably is the better way.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Houston, TX
The Eastwood tool that Tony has works badass! And thanks again Tony for the use of it, and thanks Jeff and Joe for helping me out.
It helps to have two people working it, one rolling and one using the heat gun at all times.
Peace,
Craig.
It helps to have two people working it, one rolling and one using the heat gun at all times.
Peace,
Craig.
