NRC-Motorsports

about the doors have peak go left to right and have doors go up on angle of roof ,but garage should be at least 14 foot high at peak,mine is 28 deep and lift ,with car just clear enerything and i have some room to lift my wagoneer, cant post pict now camera broke hope to have fixed by mon i also have oil heat 150,000 btu,s with blower, this year it was easy to add the ac,as the blower and stuff was there costs me about,300 year in oil ,i live in new york and run my bussines out of there with tool room plus bays and office its about 1500 square feet, uninsulated block, but 8" insulation in roof ,those are big doors your killing alot of wall space, mine are 10 wide by 8 high,car on trlr fits in ,dont think you need more than 12' doors

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

If you have any hope for a lift, go with a thick floor (4" is too thin, IMO), and 12' ceilings are just barely passable. I'm hoping to put a lift in my shop. But, I'm not too sure about the concrete, as I did not build the shop (previous owner did). Mine's a 30 x 30 shop (with a 20 x 30 shed area), and it's barely big enough for 2 cars, tools, and parts. It fills up fast! And here's my 225 feet of concrete launch pad

-Andrew

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Oh yeah! ... I'm considering selling the car and going lawnmower racing ...

Baskett has some very good words of advice ... make sure when you pour the slab, the contractor knows what your plans are so that the proper reonforcement can be made.

Agin, mine is 24x54 and not big enough! You can never build it too big and it costs twice as much to add on as it does to build it now.

Keith

No kidding, you can never get it big enough. My dad's is 20'x40' and it is too small.
20' tall, sloping to 12' tall. 5 cars can fit in with the two lifts.
Oh yeah and you need a bathroom in your garage. Your wife will hate you for running inside the house to use the BR if you are greasy.

Speed Demon

iTrader: (14)

Excellent info guys.

In response to several of the posts. The concrete guy is placing rebar in the fiber mesh concrete. Also I plan to place column footings where the lift posts will be. The footings will be filled with 67 stone and concrete on that.

I'll look into alternate door sizes, good point.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

On the concrete issue. Talk to the local pourers, you may be able to do it in sections, using their leftovers. My buddy and some friends also, have saved lots of money this way. The pourer comes off a joba dn has a few cu yards left, drops it off, you level it. Charge was minimal sometimes free for getting rid of it. Definately have some good ideas in here though.

BTW, mitch, nice setup!

indyjps

i built garages on the side for several years and worked @ a lumber yard, the dimensions you chose are kind of odd, is that the largest you can fit on your lot. make it simple, osb/plywood comes in 4x8 sheets how about a 32 x 40 if you can swing it. also check into standard truss sizes, some trusses are not that common and cost much more, check out local lumber yards/contractor supply places, you may score a real deal on trusses there, make sure they include tar paper in the quote, some places dont realize we want our garages to be as nice as houses, the last garage i built for my father used a roof made out of steel building supplies, vaulted ceilings with skylights, makes a tremendous amount of storage space above with the ceiling open.
get your supply list from 84 and start shopping around for the best prices on each item instead of buying it all from them, all lumber companies have loss leaders, (cheap items to bring people in off the street), and then gouge you for other items in the whole kit,

Speed Demon

iTrader: (14)

Dang,
Excellent point on the size, but they just dug the footings Friday.
I'll have to get the tape measure out and see if it's anyway to set the block work out further on the footing to make the building to 40 wide.

I'll also check into the materials like you said. Good points also.

Thanks for the information.

Brandon

iateyourcat

Has anyone looked at www.steelbuilding.com or built a steel building? I priced out a 38'x48'x13' with 2 16'x10' doors, 1 12'x10' door, 1 3'x7' entry door, 2 electric openers, gutters, vents, 8 10' light panels in the ceiling, and foil/bubble/poly interior wrap for $13,700 delivered.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Mine is a metal building ...

24x40
1 18'x10' door w/ opener
1 10' roll up
1 3/0 pass door
8 8' double tube lighting fixtures
roof vent
12x24 awning
200 amp service
insulated

under $9K erected
didn't include foundation work.

PlainwhiteZ28

24x30x10 Steel Building
1 16x8 overhead door
1 dual door opening
6-8 6ft fluorescent lights
100 amp service
running water

will have overhead storage and this is being added on to a 20x20x8

Most of our junk will be in the old building and this will be the work staion.

We poured the cement on saturday, their is no codes or anything here so we have about a 5'' footing with 3/8 rebar vertically every foot and 3/8rebal horizantly all the wya around. Then wire mesh in the actual poor.

1,300 for the cement plus 500 in forms and paid a cement pro to put a slick finish on it with the power trouwl. Steel building 3,300 delivered we already had the doors from previous jobs.

so a little over 5,000 and we are on a 7k budget, so the rest goes towards some new tools

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

They can be built for cheap, that's for sure.

Notice you are in Ft. Davis. Beautiful contry. Have/had a distant relative that lives there. The dad was a border patrolman who patrolled via airplane. Many years ago he crashed and died.

I miss visiting out there ... it's a small town ... thought I'd fish a little.

PlainwhiteZ28

good country.

lots of dust......and no fbody's to race!

aww well.

what was your relatives name?

Ive been here for 21 yrs

RAMnGO

when i was in service, we had a hangar problem with birds shitting all over the planes. so what they did and i always remembered this as what NOT to do. they painted the floor white which was ok as it did help out with brightness and they put grit in it for traction, well that grit was gone in about 4 months time also the painted floor WITH the grit was slippery as hell if anything leaked on it, they also put ALOT of new lighting in the ceilings and they aimed it all over the place, upwards downwards just about any way you could imagine. in a garage i think extra lighting would always be a must. i knew one guy who had lights on the sides about 3' and 6' up on the walls he claimed it helped him detail his car.

10.5 Dave

iTrader: (5)

I just added a 30x40 pole barn onto the back of my existing pole-barn.It's a 30x80 now with water,phone,heat,concrete floor and 230 volt electric.I did little of the work myself and ended up spending $9500.00.That is with upgraded 2x6 roof trusses,30 ton of gravel and 21 yards of concrete.My floor is from 5.5-7 inches thick and has both rebar and wire mesh.I have 9 8 ft flourescent lights and 24 electrical outlets total in the finished building.It is freakin HUGE and I love it.I have room to park all my stuff and not worry about the kids scratching one of my rides.

Magyver

Let me know if you ever put up the lift or if anyone has a lift with pictures. Thanks

Rat_Fink

Here's my garage 24'x36' it's as big as the county would let me bulid.
I used scissor trusses to give me extra height.
Got the drywall done on friday spent most of today putting on primer.
I hope by next weekend I can start the fun stuff putting up cabinets and getting organized.