Balancer installer "kit"
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From: Katy, TX
Balancer installer "kit" Some folks use the "lets hammer it on" method, and some use a longer bolt to install their balancer pulleys on our vehicles. With the recent rash a month or so ago of folks cross-threading a bolt in their crank, I went digging around at work to see what I could find. Lo and behold, we have the correct hardware to make yourself a nice balancer installer. Its nothing more than a chunk of threaded rod, a couple big washers, and a nut really -- you thread the rod into the crank by hand so there goes the problem with cross-threading. Then you slip the balancer on the crank snout and suck it down with the nut. If you wish, you could leave this setup on the car -- you'd basically be studding the balancer pulley. The threaded rod we sell is pretty stout -- 125,000 psi tensile strength.. Stronger than stock, but not as strong as ARP's 200,000 heat-treated alloy.. If anyone was looking for the right threaded rod/washers/nuts and couldn't find 'em, let me know because we have it all in stock.
Here's mine. $20 worth of parts. It's a combo dampener installer / crank timing gear installer. Made from threaded rod, nuts, washers, and a metal pipe coupler.
The short rod in the picture (cut from the same piece of threaded rod) is used to push against when removing the balancer.
The short rod in the picture (cut from the same piece of threaded rod) is used to push against when removing the balancer.
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From: Morrisdale,PA=home & Asheville,NC=work
Originally Posted by Brains
Some folks use the "lets hammer it on" method, and some use a longer bolt to install their balancer pulleys on our vehicles. With the recent rash a month or so ago of folks cross-threading a bolt in their crank, I went digging around at work to see what I could find. Lo and behold, we have the correct hardware to make yourself a nice balancer installer. Its nothing more than a chunk of threaded rod, a couple big washers, and a nut really -- you thread the rod into the crank by hand so there goes the problem with cross-threading. Then you slip the balancer on the crank snout and suck it down with the nut. If you wish, you could leave this setup on the car -- you'd basically be studding the balancer pulley. The threaded rod we sell is pretty stout -- 125,000 psi tensile strength.. Stronger than stock, but not as strong as ARP's 200,000 heat-treated alloy.. If anyone was looking for the right threaded rod/washers/nuts and couldn't find 'em, let me know because we have it all in stock.
I sell them for $25 shipped. I have 7 left and when they are gone, I won't be making any more.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158854
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158854
