JoeNova

Yeah, autocorrect.

Most of them block some access, yeah. The ICT plate allows you to keep the flywheel/flexplate on the engine while its bolted to the stand.

grubinski

I use threaded rod and a nut. That way, I can run the rod **all** the way down into the block. Full thread engagement makes me happy.

rigid1

Realize this is an older post but M10 -1.5 is your thread diameter and pitch. You need to measure the depth of the threads in the block and also the length of the spacer on your stand. You can measure that in standard but need to covert it to metric mm. You can get grade 10.9 at a fastenal store or on their website. As mentioned you can also get threaded rod and cut it to what you need. Please use B 7 Grade if that is what you choose to do. It will seem pricey but so is your engine and safety. The correct length bolt for your stand would be a better choice. We are talking about a couple bucks a bolt and maybe a small shipping charge.These stores are all over.
Hope this helps someone

theunderlord

Just wanted to add on to this thread, since I used this thread to try and get the right length bolts a couple weeks ago and bought 90mm length and they were WAY too long. I have the o'reilleys stand, power torque I believe is the name, its pretty meh, but in Seattle, you don't have much to choose from off the shelf. Harbor Freight is pretty much out of everything up here, I tried there first.

You need M10 x 1.5 bolts, but go buy 65, 70, 75, and 80MM length bolts, depending on your stand. Home Depot will have what you need in the metric bolt drawers, along with some larger washers, You want the fullest engagement you can get obviously.

RedXray

Good to know Home Depot has the correct size.

I ran into the same issue with my Harbor Freight engine stand couldn't find the bolts. Even Fastenal didn't have the right size but could order them. I found one of the (truck) A/C compressor bolts fit perfectly. My local chevy dealer had them for $1.74 each (part number 11516109).