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Welp, as the title states, lets see your engine run stand!
i’ll start.
i built this bad mamma jamma because it seems as if every time i install the engine in my car, something is always failing on it whether its low oil pressure, oil leak, bad sensor, etc.
so, rather than fighting everything while its in the car (turbo lq4 miata) where i have no room; this gives me true results of everything so i can fix whatever needs to be fixed before i drop it in.
So here we go with a little rundown of it. I made it as BULKY as possible. Truck intake, truck accessories with truck oil pan. HOWEVER, i test fit all the f body goodies just to make it versatile. I wanted to make it where i can grab a junkyard 5.3/6.0, toss it on there and go without any modifications.
Next, i picked up a set of indian motorcycle mufflers on offerup for $20….. i chopped the flanges off the cast truck manifolds, flipped them forward and welded directly to them….. yes it chokes it down, but it shouldnt really matter since its just going to idle on a stand with a few blips here and there…. Hoping to quiet it down. Debating on adding a set of v bands to each pipe just for ease of removal and installation.
as for fueling, i got an ebay surge tank with a single knockoff bosch 044 pump feeding a corvette regulator. I capped off the other 2 ports on the surge tank and i have a 5/16->6an with a cap that i can put on “return style” systems just to close it off so the corvette regulator does all the work.
the radiator is just an offerup special….. the dimensions looked like they were going to work, so i bought it for $20.
the cooling fan is a spare that i have for my miata. Its a lincoln mark 8. It flows like 5000cfm i believe. Alot of racecars use em. Junkyard $20.
now for the best part; the wiring.
i made it retain the oem fuse block and just wired up the bare minimum so that way i can plug in any gen 3/gen4 engine with etc/non etc and it will work. Simply plug harness into fuse block, tighten 7mm bolt and its good to fire up.
the starter and alternator are no biggie, and the gauges are all mechanical….. no risk of electrical gauges giving a false reading.
i used and oil adapter from ICT billet as well as the capillary tube extension from them as well. Their positions on the engine are self explanatory.
All in all, this should allow any combination of a gen 3 or gen 4 to bolt on and fire up.
i made this, utilizes a 1000lb rotating engine stand so you can work on the engine on the test stand and not have to remove it. Saved me a few times with lifter issues and low oil pressure. Plus it’s universal so any engine can be run on it.