Here's my goal
I'd like to get your input on how to reach my goal of 400RWHP.
Dynoed 315.4RWHP with:
FIPS, Catback, 2.73s
Current and upcoming mods:
ARH LTs, LS6 intake, Cutout, Lid (FIPS is gone), 3.93s
I'll loose a bit of HP due to the 2.73->3.93 swap, but the rest of the mods should more than make up for it. However, I'd be surprised if it puts me at (or even near) my goal of 400.
Question is.. Would a cam be enough to hit 400, or do you guys think I'll need to do a head-swap as well?
Or, is there another way that I've overlooked?
As for spray, that'll come later (not trusting my 10bolt)
Cam only should be able to hit 400rwhp without any trouble. A TSP 228R or really any cam with a high 220 or low 230 duration should get you right in that range.Throw an underdrive pulley on there too.
If you want to be sure you get over 400rwhp you could either port your heads or buy an $1100 set or PRC 5.3 or even the LS6 stage 1s.With that you should be in the 420rwhp range, all you will need is a good tune.
And a good tune is being taken care of by CMS. They're hopefully installing the LTs next week.
How loopy is a 228 duration cam? I've heard the 224s, and they're not too bad. I need the car to pass for stock when I eventually bring it back to Sweden.
UD pulley you say? I thought that was mainly a m*stang thing..
And a good tune is being taken care of by CMS. They're hopefully installing the LTs next week.
How loopy is a 228 duration cam? I've heard the 224s, and they're not too bad. I need the car to pass for stock when I eventually bring it back to Sweden.
UD pulley you say? I thought that was mainly a m*stang thing..

Its not so much the duration of the cam, its the LSA you want to look at to not be loopy. A 228R on a 114 LSA would be enough that a few people could tell it has a cam, a 116 LSA would be stealthy where as a 112 would be more of a rough idle.
UD pulleys are nice and not just a stang thing for sure. I picked mine up with belts for $190 I think, and I really cont tell a difference in the driving as far as power steering goes. It s said to be good for 10 rwhp or so.
Well your tune will be great from CMS...talk to Ryne about your goals and see what he suggests and what he can do for you, Ryne knows his ****.
stock heads are good enough to make decent power without modification...
believe it or not the percentage loss between an m6 and a 4l60e is marginal at best...
Last edited by SUCK MY SS; Sep 1, 2008 at 01:44 AM.
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stock heads are good enough to make decent power without modification...
believe it or not the percentage loss between an m6 and a 4l60e is marginal at best...
cam only ls1 w/ victor jr., but EFI with a elbow and 90mm tb.
13/4 longtubes and true duals...thats it.
the cam is something we had laying around...its a Strictly Performance grind...low 230s duration low 600 lift...
it made 436@6200 and 389 TQ... this is through a T56 trans and a 12 bolt rear end...at the time it also had a 85mm MAF and a 78 mm air lid with tr6 plugs..
My blue car laid down 432rwhp cam only through the 10 bolt, and then 423rwhp through a 9in, and that was with no aftermarket intakes manifold, or throttle body
it can be done!
Last edited by 02NBMWS6; Sep 1, 2008 at 12:07 PM.
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I don't remember ever seeing any pics of a vic jr with a lid, do you have any?
My blue car laid down 432rwhp cam only through the 10 bolt, and then 423rwhp through a 9in, and that was with no aftermarket intakes manifold, or throttle body
it can be done!
your right i made a mistake...i did have an 85mm MAF meter on it...and yes i do still run a 78mm mti air lid on it...in stock form the lid wont fit...it must be modified to work...i think i got a pic somewhere...
oh yeah i forgot my numbers were made through a 12 bolt with 4.10s...not that it really matters...you barely lose any power going from a 10 bolt to an aftermarket rear end...
curious, what rpm did you make your peak power at with the blue car?
heres the only pic i have of the setup...you cant really see the air lid, but i am ditching the maf and going SD...then doing a ram air deal instead of the lid... the 78mm restriction in the farthest reaching point of the induction system is killing me on the top end...w/ an underdrive pulley and the right sized intake piping that thing would have made over 450 rwhp cam only...
oh yeah i forgot my numbers were made through a 12 bolt with 4.10s...not that it really matters...you barely lose any power going from a 10 bolt to an aftermarket rear end...
curious, what rpm did you make your peak power at with the blue car?
heres the only pic i have of the setup...you cant really see the air lid, but i am ditching the maf and going SD...then doing a ram air deal instead of the lid... the 78mm restriction in the farthest reaching point of the induction system is killing me on the top end...w/ an underdrive pulley and the right sized intake piping that thing would have made over 450 rwhp cam only...
what happened to your car? "would have made" 450+? You got a new setup on the way? when's it gonna be done man?
where in the exaust path did you enlarge the piping? a common misconception is 3 inch piping from the header collector back is necessary...we did a stock bottom end h/c ls1 a few months back that made 475@6400 rpm 410 tq...this was through pacesetters and 2.5 inch true duals over the axle...m6 car with a 12 bolt as well
if your talking about enlarging the header primaries, that will move your peak powerband higher....but if you dont have the intake flow to support it, it will work against you...
i blew my t56, and i found a fresh built braked t400 with jw bell for less than what it was gonna cost me to rebuild the t56 the way i want...im still waiting for my converter which is taking FOREVER! and i got a couple clearance issues with the motor and bell housing...but thats no biggie...mostly its just me not having time to work on it...
i still think the engine had more power left in it, we didnt finish the tune since it locked up the tranny on the dyno and the car has sat since...**** man its probably been 7 or 8 months since the car went down...since then ive gone back to tr55s, since i wanna dial the car in on the motor before the unit goes on and put on an underdrive pulley...so with a t56 in it im sure it would break 450 no problem...now with the t400 it might make 400 rwhp lol but that fckers gonna move..
where in the exaust path did you enlarge the piping? a common misconception is 3 inch piping from the header collector back is necessary...we did a stock bottom end h/c ls1 a few months back that made 475@6400 rpm 410 tq...this was through pacesetters and 2.5 inch true duals over the axle...m6 car with a 12 bolt as well
if your talking about enlarging the header primaries, that will move your peak powerband higher....but if you dont have the intake flow to support it, it will work against you...
i blew my t56, and i found a fresh built braked t400 with jw bell for less than what it was gonna cost me to rebuild the t56 the way i want...im still waiting for my converter which is taking FOREVER! and i got a couple clearance issues with the motor and bell housing...but thats no biggie...mostly its just me not having time to work on it...
i still think the engine had more power left in it, we didnt finish the tune since it locked up the tranny on the dyno and the car has sat since...**** man its probably been 7 or 8 months since the car went down...since then ive gone back to tr55s, since i wanna dial the car in on the motor before the unit goes on and put on an underdrive pulley...so with a t56 in it im sure it would break 450 no problem...now with the t400 it might make 400 rwhp lol but that fckers gonna move..
I see now, well let me know when it's done, we gotta run em!


