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Tranny is not engaging...

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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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Default Tranny is not engaging...

I'm sure most of you know what happened to my buddy Will's (99BlownSS) car this past weekend.
Basically he got a stall (low milleage Yank 4000SS), we installed in incorrectly (did not fully seat the stall) and broke his tranny pump.
He got a new 38K mile 4L60E. With the tranny on the ground we seated the stall (correctly this time ) we spun it by hand to see if fluid came out, it did.
We bolted everything up, did we not shim the stall (previous owner didn't either with no problems), fired up the car with the lines disconnected and fluid was still flowing. Connected the lines, let the car down and everything was fine. Car ran a 7.7 at Irwindale with a 1.6 60' ft. Less then a few hundred miles later, on the way to the Irvine meet his tranny went out, every gear is like neutral. He disconnected the tranny lines and started the car and no fluid is flowing now.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Edit: During the install we replaced the tranny filter and pan gasket, and of course used fresh fluids.

Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; Sep 10, 2008 at 12:26 PM.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 01:18 PM
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Damn that sucks, I am still a learning mechanic so I cant really help you out too much in that department, you try a search, maybe theres a write up on something like this but I do got a 4l60e for sale for 400$ if you need it.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by carbonfiberbird
Damn that sucks, I am still a learning mechanic so I cant really help you out too much in that department, you try a search, maybe theres a write up on something like this but I do got a 4l60e for sale for 400$ if you need it.
FYI, we bought the one that's on there now with 38K miles on it for $250.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
FYI, we bought the one that's on there now with 38K miles on it for $250.
damn thats cheap, is that what they go for, if thats the case I'll probably just keep mine, maybe I can use it for one of my MANY project.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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I talked to my dad and bro and they said everything sounded normal, maybe the guy knew it was bad, that would also explain the 250$ price tag. Actually my dad said sometimes with a stall you need a new flex plate.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by carbonfiberbird
I talked to my dad and bro and they said everything sounded normal, maybe the guy knew it was bad, that would also explain the 250$ price tag. Actually my dad said sometimes with a stall you need a new flex plate.
The tranny was known to be good, the seller was going to do a LS1/4L60E swap, and opted for a T56. The tranny ran great until this happened. A member from performabuilt transmissions said that its likely that the spacing between the TC and the flexplate might have been off, causing the stall to wipe the pump rotor. Did I mention that I dislike autos?
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:37 PM
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with the converter fully seated into the pump you must measure the distance between the the flex plate mounting location and the converter pad...ideally you would want the clearance to be between 1/8th to 3/16ths of an inch...if the the the converter sits to far in or out of the pump, it can damage the pump...and if you have been driving around with the pump not working, the converter and transmission may have suffered damage as well...at this point, the only advice i can give is to take it apart and inspect it..
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
The tranny was known to be good, the seller was going to do a LS1/4L60E swap, and opted for a T56. The tranny ran great until this happened. A member from performabuilt transmissions said that its likely that the spacing between the TC and the flexplate might have been off, causing the stall to wipe the pump rotor. Did I mention that I dislike autos?
Maybe this is a sign for that guy to also do a t56 swap
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SUCK MY SS
with the converter fully seated into the pump you must measure the distance between the the flex plate mounting location and the converter pad...ideally you would want the clearance to be between 1/8th to 3/16ths of an inch...if the the the converter sits to far in or out of the pump, it can damage the pump...and if you have been driving around with the pump not working, the converter and transmission may have suffered damage as well...at this point, the only advice i can give is to take it apart and inspect it..
So measure the distance between the bolt hole in the flexplate and the threaded female hole in the TC?

Originally Posted by carbonfiberbird
Maybe this is a sign for that guy to also do a t56 swap
LOL, I was thinking about that, but it requires more $$$.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:54 PM
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Will lets do a T56 swap in the bitch!!!
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1BLKSS
Will lets do a T56 swap in the bitch!!!
If he's down and can afford it, I'm up for it, now that's something I know I can do right.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 03:04 PM
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how much we talking about?
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 03:05 PM
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im thinking.... $1300?
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
So measure the distance between the bolt hole in the flexplate and the threaded female hole in the TC?
yes.
if you can get the converter fully seated back in the pump while the transmission is still in the car, you can measure the clearance to see where you stand...at this point, correcting the clearance (if that is the case) is not going to fix the problem....but at least you will know if you have the right clearance there...

also this may seem bonehead, but make sure the bolts arent bottoming out without fully seating the converter to the flex plate.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
So measure the distance between the bolt hole in the flexplate and the threaded female hole in the TC?
you cant do it now, youve already bolted the **** together, which is gonna change the distance between the flexplate and the converter... unless you unbolt the converter and trans, seat the converter fully then rebolt and measure... might as well drop it down

first things first check the fluid again make sure theres no leaks and its still got fluid lol smell it too.

if thats good pull the pan and make sure the filters not plugged and you have the right one, ie some pans have sumps and older ones do not, the filter changes between the trans'

third go to the automatic trans section and not the western for technical questions
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SnakesRslow
you cant do it now, youve already bolted the **** together, which is gonna change the distance between the flexplate and the converter...

first things first check the fluid again make sure theres no leaks and its still got fluid lol smell it too.

if thats good pull the pan and make sure the filters not plugged and you have the right one, ie some pans have sumps and older ones do not, the filter changes between the trans'

third go to the automatic trans section and not the western for technical questions
I think he meant to unbolt the converter and push the TC back into the tranny and check the clearance, just to see what it is.
Will said the fuild was good, but no harm in double checking it.
We will be dropping the pan and checking things out before we drop the tranny.
I posted a similar thread there first, but I wanted to post one here as well, just in case.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
If he's down and can afford it, I'm up for it, now that's something I know I can do right.
seriously that was the single GREATEST thing I ever did to my car, its like getting a new car!
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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Just have someone build your 4L60e right.
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 01:20 PM
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A T56 in his car would be awesome. Procharged M6 F T W!!!
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 02:10 AM
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Definitely go with a T56, autos are POS, no point unless your well into the single digits.
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