??? about 315s and lowered height
??? about 315s and lowered height from the threads I've read, a lot of people who go 315s in the back and lower their cars usually need to do the BFH mod. I know it stands for big freakin hammer, but what exactly do I need to do with it? Or should I just go to a shop if I don't know what I'm doing?
The most body shop experience I've got is from using channel locks to pull in my fender tabs thanks to when the previous owner took it to a shop and some jackass probably lifted it on the tab.
The most body shop experience I've got is from using channel locks to pull in my fender tabs thanks to when the previous owner took it to a shop and some jackass probably lifted it on the tab.
Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 33
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they're probably talking about rolling your fenders.
basically, you can take either a wooden baseball bat, or a proper fender roller, and roll the inner fender lip flat. that will make the cross section area for the tire to fit in wider, and you won't have any rubbing issues. this is obviously affected by wheel offset (backspacing) in addition to tire size (both width and aspect ratio).
basically, you can take either a wooden baseball bat, or a proper fender roller, and roll the inner fender lip flat. that will make the cross section area for the tire to fit in wider, and you won't have any rubbing issues. this is obviously affected by wheel offset (backspacing) in addition to tire size (both width and aspect ratio).
just beat the **** out of it till the tires dont rubb anymore...lol.....the way i understand is that with lowered cars if you hit to big of bump they will still rubb even after BFH mod.
I not sure if that info is corect but thats what i understand....ive been looking for tires also.
I not sure if that info is corect but thats what i understand....ive been looking for tires also.
he BFH mod is taking a small sledge and pounding the inner fender well in towards the gas tank to clearance for the wheel and tire.
With the wheel removed you will need to bang the fender well at the 3 oclock position alot at the 12 and small bit at the 9. Frequently the rear fender lips need rolled on these cars after lowering to keep it from cutting the tire. I personally used a ball peen hammer on a hot day so the paint was soft and slowly worked the lip up. Some guys use a fender rolling tool, some guys use a baseball bat. The ball peen worked the best for me. If it's not hot out a heat gun can be used for the same effect.
After you're done clearancing spray the beat on metal with your choice of paint or undercoating and drive around for a bit. Check the inner fender well and hammer on it more where it's shiny.
A few areas are thick material and takes some significant blows to move. Take care that the hammer doesn't bounce back and slam your rear quarter. Also make sure your rear seat is up and latched in the normal position.
Over a couple weeks check and recheck the fender wells to make sure the tires aren't rubbing.
That's it in a nut shell
With the wheel removed you will need to bang the fender well at the 3 oclock position alot at the 12 and small bit at the 9. Frequently the rear fender lips need rolled on these cars after lowering to keep it from cutting the tire. I personally used a ball peen hammer on a hot day so the paint was soft and slowly worked the lip up. Some guys use a fender rolling tool, some guys use a baseball bat. The ball peen worked the best for me. If it's not hot out a heat gun can be used for the same effect.
After you're done clearancing spray the beat on metal with your choice of paint or undercoating and drive around for a bit. Check the inner fender well and hammer on it more where it's shiny.
A few areas are thick material and takes some significant blows to move. Take care that the hammer doesn't bounce back and slam your rear quarter. Also make sure your rear seat is up and latched in the normal position.
Over a couple weeks check and recheck the fender wells to make sure the tires aren't rubbing.
That's it in a nut shell
