hey, i just bought ARP wheel studs, 12mm X 1.5, 2.5" length, i was wondering what lug nuts should i use? would the stock lug nuts work?? thanks

 

bumpt for a 2.5" arp sutd with a 7/16 spacer...what lugnut will clear the extended arp sutuds....looking for a chrom covered lugnut.

 

If you are running the stock wheels then yes they will work.

 

bump looking for closed lug nuts cant find any that will fit arps!

 

Good luck finding closed end lug nuts that will fit extended studs. If you do find some they will more than likely stick out too far and look like ****, IMO

 

I have read that some people cut the stud to the desired size. Will a simple handsaw do the job? Kinda afraid of stripping the sutds.

 

If this application is being used on a drag wheel that is thick such as a prostar/draglite, with the spacer, you're studs are already too short.

You should NOT cut the studs, though you could rather easily do so. Realistically you need longer studs then what you already have (if your setup is as I’ve described). 3.25 are realistically a more appropriate choice.

Since you’re running 12mm studs, you need 12mm of engagement into the hex portion of the lugnut this has nothing to do with what shank-style lugnut you’re using. The portion of the lug that holds the actual wheel on the car IS the hex portion of the nut, not the shank.

Longer 2.5" studs generally will not work with any closed 60 degree tapered lug. Longer 2.5" studs generally interfere with stock hubcaps too...so keep this in mind.

You need to take the good with the bad I suppose. Keep it safe though.

 

In addition, as an install tip, do NOT pull the studs in place. You'll more than likely stretch the studs weakening them reducing their ability to perform as intended. Studs should be pressed in. Unless you can pull them in with less than say 100 ft/lbs of torque, you risk damaging the studs.

 

+1

I was looking around for awhile for a closed end lug that would fit my ARP extended studs. After awhile I figured the larger ones would just stick out too much and look like crap.

The stock open ended zinc plated ones look like crap too. Now I just run a set of plain silver open ended nuts. Like these.

 

Oh great. I read in this forum that you install them by pulling them into the spindle with an open-ended lug, which is what I just did with all 10 of my front ARP studs. Did I just waste a lot of time, effort and money? Do I have to junk them, buy 10 new ones and have a shop press them in?

Those are what I'm using with my 2.5" studs.

 

Tommy,

...just more miss-information you read on the internet. One person reads it somewhere and regurgitates it and it turns to gospel. I’ve seen full write-ups with what you’ve discussed. All intentions were good I’m sure, but it’s a shame it’s really not the best method and can do more damage than help. …Case in point, the SFI discussion you read on another post. Folks read these ratings and because they heard from somewhere or someone else it’s a street durability thing...they take it to heart.

Don't get me wrong, there are many knowledgeable people on the internet, many post on the boards. I'm 41 and never stop learning. The trick is to find the people who know their stuff and learn from them, not the ones that don't.

Allot of people install them the way you've done though it's really not the appropriate method. I'm not sure how much force it took you to pull them in but I'd imagine probably quite a bit...Did you weaken them? That would probably depend on how much torque was applied when you pulled them into place. Stretching the bolts too far will weaken them. On occasion I'll see folks with broken aftermarket studs with low HP numbers. You have to wonder, was it the lugs they didn't check for proper torque or was it the procedure in which they installed the studs which lead to stud failure.

You may hear from some people stating that they are 80 years old and have been doing it this way since they were 12 and never had a problem but that doesn't mean it is correct ...if you get my drift :-). When you see folks recommending the use of an impact wrench which can easily apply in excess of 500 ft/lbs on the studs, it makes me go hmmm. To be honest, I wouldn't be surprised if most shops install the parts in the method you may have done, that doesn't mean it’s correct either...some of them do it for as it is quicker and they get paid by the job looking. If the job called for 4 hours using a Mitchells estimator (or other) database, they bill for 4 hours but if they can get it done in 2, they can make more working on another job. It seems like it’s a trend to be combative these days as with a few other posts. This isn’t against all mechanics, many take their job very serious, and there are always a few bad apples. I'm merely the messenger...lol


PS, I do like your wheels and recommend them to many. I wish we could build an economy wheel as such. It's a very good economy setup, it just doesn' t work for many of the late model configurations easily. The manufacture makes super nice high-end wheels too...which are light-years ahead of the stuff you have. They are like our products though, not in the budget of the masses.

 

I didn't use a torque wrench so I cant say how many lb-ft I applied, but I was able to get it done with a standard 4-sided tire iron and didn't have to use a breaker bar. I put quite a bit of effort into it though, using my leg to push down on one side of the tire iron and pulling up on the other side with both hands (I'm not a very big guy).