New Wheels-Summit Drag Thrust
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#22
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Because of their size, they should have a "shank" style lug nut. Instead these cheaper knock off wheels use a normal 60 degree conical seat lug nut. Some even use an offset washer to center the wheel on the hub. A drag wheel should always have a shank lug going ALL the way through the wheel seating to the hub, using nothing but the lug nut all the way through centering the wheel. There are other various technical reasons that they will not pass SFI 15.1 and 15.2 specs. You can mount a meaty tire on a 18x11 wheel. The idea of the drag wheel is to take advantage of the sidewall with the smaller diameter. Most of your traction comes from sidewall more than it does tread width. That's why cars are able to run 6s on a 10.5 tire. The real deal (Welds RT and RTS wheels, Bogarts, etc) will clear your factory brakes fine (where as these knock offs won't) they will be taking several hundreds of rotational pounds off your car (1 single static pound is 3.3xx lbs converted to rotational mass, many forget about this) and they will be SFI approved. If you're going to do it, save up the money and do it right IMO, unless of course you're just going for the look. But even then, who wants to be the guy at the local car show with the "fake" Weld wheels?
#23
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I did have to do very little grinding on the rears.
Thanks for the compliments
This car is my DD so they are for looks, I did not plan on racing it.
Who whats to be the guy at the local car show with no window tint, looking like a fish bowl.
Thanks for the compliments
This car is my DD so they are for looks, I did not plan on racing it.
Who whats to be the guy at the local car show with no window tint, looking like a fish bowl.
#24
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#25
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Lol, I guess that was an attempt to make a crack at my car, because I gave some valuable information to a questioning member, and you must feel attacked by that. Please understand I meant no disrespect to your wheel choice. They are a good looking wheel for the price, and many people use them. I was just correcting his information in hopes of him making the correct purchase that best fits his needs. ![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
#27
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Because of their size, they should have a "shank" style lug nut. Instead these cheaper knock off wheels use a normal 60 degree conical seat lug nut. Some even use an offset washer to center the wheel on the hub. A drag wheel should always have a shank lug going ALL the way through the wheel seating to the hub, using nothing but the lug nut all the way through centering the wheel. There are other various technical reasons that they will not pass SFI 15.1 and 15.2 specs. You can mount a meaty tire on a 18x11 wheel. The idea of the drag wheel is to take advantage of the sidewall with the smaller diameter. Most of your traction comes from sidewall more than it does tread width. That's why cars are able to run 6s on a 10.5 tire. The real deal (Welds RT and RTS wheels, Bogarts, etc) will clear your factory brakes fine (where as these knock offs won't) they will be taking several hundreds of rotational pounds off your car (1 single static pound is 3.3xx lbs converted to rotational mass, many forget about this) and they will be SFI approved. If you're going to do it, save up the money and do it right IMO, unless of course you're just going for the look. But even then, who wants to be the guy at the local car show with the "fake" Weld wheels?
Those wheels sure look great though! I can't think of the name of the wheels that resemble these, but much more expensive. They have the 5 circles around the center style? What are they?
#28
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Thanks for the good insight! and not a smartass remark like how most Tech members respond.
Those wheels sure look great though! I can't think of the name of the wheels that resemble these, but much more expensive. They have the 5 circles around the center style? What are they?
Those wheels sure look great though! I can't think of the name of the wheels that resemble these, but much more expensive. They have the 5 circles around the center style? What are they?
#29
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Ive never yet seen a Drag wheel give me a performance edge ever, and ive been in the 10 sec zone to the 13 sec zone with Weld Drag Wheels to The cheap Summit Wheels.. Its all about preference on what you like and what looks best on your car, In fact my brother has been 9.80's on a set of Weld knock off's from summit thru the muff's full street trim in his 92 z28.. I'm buying a set of those Drag Thrust Wheels this weekend and ill post pics up when there on.
#30
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Ive never yet seen a Drag wheel give me a performance edge ever, and ive been in the 10 sec zone to the 13 sec zone with Weld Drag Wheels to The cheap Summit Wheels.. Its all about preference on what you like and what looks best on your car, In fact my brother has been 9.80's on a set of Weld knock off's from summit thru the muff's full street trim in his 92 z28.. I'm buying a set of those Drag Thrust Wheels this weekend and ill post pics up when there on.
#32
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#38
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everybody starts somewhere, we are not all at the pinnacle of income and taste just because we are online together ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
i remember scrambling for 50 bux to get som salad shooters to put nittos on.. cuz my stock formula just had too much power to hook up with 'regular' tires.
wheel weight doesnt seem to affect my car much, but then again the rest of the thing is heavy as F already. 60' time and horsepower seem to have a much more noticable effect
ive run an 8.7 on a 1.35 60 on 17" all around and no other changes ran 8.6 on the welds. i would suspect similar results across the board. (provided you can match the 60')
pic w/ 17's vs sig pic
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
i remember scrambling for 50 bux to get som salad shooters to put nittos on.. cuz my stock formula just had too much power to hook up with 'regular' tires.
wheel weight doesnt seem to affect my car much, but then again the rest of the thing is heavy as F already. 60' time and horsepower seem to have a much more noticable effect
ive run an 8.7 on a 1.35 60 on 17" all around and no other changes ran 8.6 on the welds. i would suspect similar results across the board. (provided you can match the 60')
pic w/ 17's vs sig pic
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0xczk96xNd0/T0zxUIqeCTI/AAAAAAAABDY/ZhG6Pu0AgcM/s341/1756169_600.jpg)
Last edited by MIGHTYMOUSE; 02-28-2012 at 09:24 AM. Reason: add pic