Drag tires for bolt on m6
Drag tires for bolt on m6 So iv heard the rule of bias plys for m6, and radials for a4, but iv seen many m6 people hook very well with a radial tire. I only am bolt ons and 3.90s for right now as it says in my sig, so would I still be okay to launch around 3k at least on a radial and not spin so much?
I also recently bought a used set of 15x10 and 15x3s for the car and they came with front tires which are radials. So it'd be kind of a pain to get bias plys for the back and have to get bias plys for the front too when I already have tires
I also recently bought a used set of 15x10 and 15x3s for the car and they came with front tires which are radials. So it'd be kind of a pain to get bias plys for the back and have to get bias plys for the front too when I already have tires
I will be getting rid of my 275/50/15 MT Radials soon to go Bias, under 50 passes on them and maybe ~1k street miles (to and from track). Let them go for $200. If you want to try radials. Personally, I got a few good 60's out of them, but that was at a really well prepped track. Haven't been able to replicate it yet.
Well the only track I have here is poorly prepped and on a their good days its still mediocre. That being said with your word that pretty much means I'd have to do to bias ply to get a decent 60
Well, here's the thing. You can do it, and some have gotten good results out of it. The problem is (as I read, not from experience) it takes a lot longer to learn to launch a manual on a radial than it does a bias ply. I personally go to the track as much as I can, but I'd rather get some good times than keep dicking around. It is nice to be able to drive to the track and back however, and radials are much better for street driving.
Since you already have radial fronts, you might as well try them. You might get good results. Like I said, if you want mine, I'm probably going to get them dismounted here soon, and I'm localish to you, so you can try them instead of spending $400 on some new ones.
Since you already have radial fronts, you might as well try them. You might get good results. Like I said, if you want mine, I'm probably going to get them dismounted here soon, and I'm localish to you, so you can try them instead of spending $400 on some new ones.
How localish are you talking about? Lol where at? As for the part that you've read, iv read the same thing. As far as a percentage how far do you think those tires are done for. Under 50 passes can mean 49 passes lol just saying you know, if I try radials and hate them I don't want it to be because they are somewhat bad shape and I wouldn't even know the difference.
I'm in Rocky Mount, about 2 hours away...I go to Fayetteville when they are running usually, don't know if you head out that way or not. I also work up towards Raleigh if you're ever up there.
They're not in bad shape, honestly. They have probably at least 75% life remaining, I'll take pics of them if you are interested, just let me know. Like I said, either way, new or used, considering you have radials in the front already, I'd at least try them - you can usually get rid of them relatively easy. I could be completely off on my life too, but I'll check them when I take them off this weekend.
They're not in bad shape, honestly. They have probably at least 75% life remaining, I'll take pics of them if you are interested, just let me know. Like I said, either way, new or used, considering you have radials in the front already, I'd at least try them - you can usually get rid of them relatively easy. I could be completely off on my life too, but I'll check them when I take them off this weekend.
Last edited by Guitar; Jul 28, 2013 at 10:20 PM.
You can run an M6 with radials but they don't play well together. You will most likely have to slip the clutch or part throttle it out of the hole. It takes some practice and suspension set up to get radials to hook with the clutch. If you aren't concerned about your 60 foot and et then just run the radials but if you like to better your last run you will be much happier with the bias. I bit the bullet and have 15 inch drag tires (QTP and skinnies) and I am now looking for a set of 17 inch wheels to mount some street radials on for my street duties.
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After some clear thought and a little more reaserch and opinions iv decided to just do it right the first time and get some bias plys. I just don't want to have to bullshit around and not be very consistant with what I think the car has in it. I last ran the car spinning 1st and getting a tad bit sideways on the 1-2 shift I got 12.7 @ 112 with a shitty shitty 2.1 60ft lol damn street tires on 18s killin me :p
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Hoosier QTPs screwed to the rims will work. It takes some practice getting your launch down right with your specific suspension parts. Put your Konis at full soft and pull your front sway bar off. Then try launching at 4K, 4.5K, 5K etc.
After some clear thought and a little more reaserch and opinions iv decided to just do it right the first time and get some bias plys. I just don't want to have to bullshit around and not be very consistant with what I think the car has in it. I last ran the car spinning 1st and getting a tad bit sideways on the 1-2 shift I got 12.7 @ 112 with a shitty shitty 2.1 60ft lol damn street tires on 18s killin me :p
Don't see why screws are needed. These aren't real high HP cars, doubt the tire will walk at all.
This. Don't think it would too bad.
You only need screws if you run tubes. I run tubes and screw my Hoosiers because I drive on the street a lot. If my tires were only used for track duties I probably wouldn't run tubes. If the tires will only be used for the track just use bread sealer and mark the wheel/tire. I have seen M6 bolt on cars spin the tires, not bad but enough to keep an eye on.
Oh okay I see. Well the most I'd drive these on the street is to and from the track which is a 10 minute or less drive down one straight street. Other than that it's all track
Also quick question, since I will be going with a 26 inch tire would the size I want be the 26x9.5 or 26x11.5? Pretty sure it's the 9.5 but don't wanna call it 100%... And what are some good cheap bias ply fronts?
If a 10" rim, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17421
No such thing as cheap BP fronts...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-1573
Our car needs to support more weight in the front so 8ply is recommended, that is what I'm going with.
I'm going to try tubless and screwless, and I drive my car pretty far to the track. We'll see how it works out.
No such thing as cheap BP fronts...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-1573
Our car needs to support more weight in the front so 8ply is recommended, that is what I'm going with.
You only need screws if you run tubes. I run tubes and screw my Hoosiers because I drive on the street a lot. If my tires were only used for track duties I probably wouldn't run tubes. If the tires will only be used for the track just use bread sealer and mark the wheel/tire. I have seen M6 bolt on cars spin the tires, not bad but enough to keep an eye on.
Cool 11.5 works.
Dammit. I was hoping NOT to hear that lol 26x7.5 weirds me out a bit on the tire width which is why I didn't consider at first but I see how it fits
Dammit. I was hoping NOT to hear that lol 26x7.5 weirds me out a bit on the tire width which is why I didn't consider at first but I see how it fits
I love my bias ply ET Drags. Stiff wall for the M6, and with the Konis I still managed a 1.60 60' time. With 3.90's though, you're likely to have some big time bog. Good luck and have fun
Also, those tires are meant for a 3.5" and up tire I posted. Probably be fine with a 3", but just a word of caution. Also, front swaybar disconnects for weight transfer, remove it for weight reduction and transfer. Koni rears will not affect how the car launches, however adjusting the fronts to full soft will aid in launching. Rears can stay on whatever you usually have them set on.
Also, those tires are meant for a 3.5" and up tire I posted. Probably be fine with a 3", but just a word of caution. Also, front swaybar disconnects for weight transfer, remove it for weight reduction and transfer. Koni rears will not affect how the car launches, however adjusting the fronts to full soft will aid in launching. Rears can stay on whatever you usually have them set on.
EDIT: Nvm. Remembered they are just adjustable in rebound lol
Last edited by Buford17; Jul 29, 2013 at 09:07 PM.