Got the Fikses on
Pro kit is CRAP!!!! the springs ride terrible. Especiaclly the rear. The springs are too soft, and too short causing the rear to ride too low. The car bottoms out ALL the time, if I have my Koni DA's adjusted for a good ride, or I have to dial the shock to rock hard and the car rides like ****.
Plus throw in the fact he is running 11" wide wheels, he'd slice the tires to ribbons.
SO I will repeat DO NOT BUY A PRO KIT! :thumbdown:
Plus throw in the fact he is running 11" wide wheels, he'd slice the tires to ribbons.
SO I will repeat DO NOT BUY A PRO KIT! :thumbdown:
TECH Veteran
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,469
Likes: 3
From: NW Houston
Andy and Tony, it really depends on your personal preference, and how you drive. I personally care more about handling than comfort, so I choose a stiff setup. If you care more about a comfortable ride, you probably shouldn't be changing too much of your suspension in the first place. The stock ride is about as comfortable as you're gonna get, but handles like ****. Opinions vary, and I am defending mine. 
TECH Addict
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,374
Likes: 0
From: Amarillo, Texas
Actually the Pro-kit has pretty soft rates for handling. The optimum solution would be something more along the lines of an adjustable coilover setup, which allows custom rates and ride height.
Good handling doesn't come from the springs nearly as much as good shocks and a larger front swaybar. The factory deCarbons are junk no matter which way you look at it. The best way to make any f-body comfortable is to put better shocks on it. The best way to make any f-body handle well is to put better shocks on it.
Here are some of the more common springs: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/suspension.html
Good handling doesn't come from the springs nearly as much as good shocks and a larger front swaybar. The factory deCarbons are junk no matter which way you look at it. The best way to make any f-body comfortable is to put better shocks on it. The best way to make any f-body handle well is to put better shocks on it.
Here are some of the more common springs: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/suspension.html
Originally Posted by Torquem
Thanks
I got them used. Those 315's dont look nearly as wide as the BFG's will in that size either. Those look plum ridiculous. Once I roast these off, I'll be getting a set of the BFG's. Was that you trying to get me to play on the road in front of the school?
I got them used. Those 315's dont look nearly as wide as the BFG's will in that size either. Those look plum ridiculous. Once I roast these off, I'll be getting a set of the BFG's. Was that you trying to get me to play on the road in front of the school?
Originally Posted by Torquem
you HAVE to tell that story...... 
It looked like I'd driven behind a spilling gravel truck for about an hour. But he paid my deductible and now it's getting new paint on the hood, bumper, fenders, and mirror, as well as all new lights and windshield. A complication has arisen though because the guy that previously repainted my hood for me fucked it up real good and there's like 4 layers of paint on it! (There's only supposed to be 2: original and one from him). So I have to pay $230 to have it chemically stripped of paint and completely cleared before they can repaint it.
That's $230 I would've put towards a stall if this whole ordeal hadn't happened..... 
Scotty-Z, $230 to chemical strip it? 
I chemically stripped a concrete truck b/c of our paint screw up for radical Graphics out past Washington, MO. A $20 five gallon bucket of laquer thinner will strip it. Or better yet, so you don't damage the fiberglass hood, a $20 box of DA sand paper will take it right off.
Preston, We will have to get together once your car is painted and once my TA is done.
I chemically stripped a concrete truck b/c of our paint screw up for radical Graphics out past Washington, MO. A $20 five gallon bucket of laquer thinner will strip it. Or better yet, so you don't damage the fiberglass hood, a $20 box of DA sand paper will take it right off.
Preston, We will have to get together once your car is painted and once my TA is done.
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Originally Posted by az28vance
Scotty-Z, $230 to chemical strip it?
I chemically stripped a concrete truck b/c of our paint screw up for radical Graphics out past Washington, MO. A $20 five gallon bucket of laquer thinner will strip it. Or better yet, so you don't damage the fiberglass hood, a $20 box of DA sand paper will take it right off.
I chemically stripped a concrete truck b/c of our paint screw up for radical Graphics out past Washington, MO. A $20 five gallon bucket of laquer thinner will strip it. Or better yet, so you don't damage the fiberglass hood, a $20 box of DA sand paper will take it right off.
Nick Tindall (I'm sure you know him, he's on FAST) painted it for me, and I don't know what the hell he did. It was only supposed to be the original paint, then his layer of paint. But it ended up being a ton of layers: clear, red, primer, clear, red, primer, red, primer, red, primer..... And he prepped it terribly! Looked like he prepped it using a handfull of gravel instead of some finer grit paper. No wonder the hood scoop bubbled up on me months after he did it and then he didn't want to fix it!.... 
I'm staying away from that guy's work now. 
Same here, real bad bumpsteer too. Went with BMRs, height and ride are great! Good alternative if you dont want to buy revalved shocks right now.
Originally Posted by Nine Ball
I've had Eibachs before (pro-kit) and the car rode like crap. Those springs are pretty harsh. I've got the Hotchkis springs now, and the car rides like stock. I highly recommend the hotchkis stuff if you like a smooth ride.
Very nice...how'd u go through to get the wheels...I too am considering these wheels, but want to find the place with the best pricing...
Originally Posted by Torquem
This last weekend I picked up some Fikse fm5's for the ride. The rears are 17x11. Now it needs to be lowered. Having a hard time deciding how to go about it.
Originally Posted by z28smokin
DMS spring are sweet. Check sig for pictures.
sorry of topic,
Da ride looks nice, those wheels are oerfect for these cars!!!
[QUOTE=obZidian]Have you had any experience with a set of prokit springs? I've been thinking about the swap to the DMS....
I have not had any experience with the prokit myself. I've heard alot of complaints about the prokits and sportlines. I have removed the rear spacer for my car. I do have a peice of heater hose around the top coil for noise reduction. I highly recomend the DMS springs.
I have not had any experience with the prokit myself. I've heard alot of complaints about the prokits and sportlines. I have removed the rear spacer for my car. I do have a peice of heater hose around the top coil for noise reduction. I highly recomend the DMS springs.
Originally Posted by Xsta Z 28
Pro kit is CRAP!!!! the springs ride terrible. Especiaclly the rear. The springs are too soft, and too short causing the rear to ride too low. The car bottoms out ALL the time, if I have my Koni DA's adjusted for a good ride, or I have to dial the shock to rock hard and the car rides like ****.
Plus throw in the fact he is running 11" wide wheels, he'd slice the tires to ribbons.
SO I will repeat DO NOT BUY A PRO KIT! :thumbdown:
Plus throw in the fact he is running 11" wide wheels, he'd slice the tires to ribbons.
SO I will repeat DO NOT BUY A PRO KIT! :thumbdown:
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 1
From: NW Houston/Nacogdoches, Texas
Originally Posted by 98NBM_TransAm
Experiance is the best teacher, and from my experiance i am very happy with my prokit, the rear doesnt sag, and i havent bottomed out once, unless you are pulling dukes of harzzard crap, the ride is a little firmer, but its certainly not rough like your saying, i dont have 11" wide wheels but i do plan on it, and i know quite a few people that are running 315's w/the prokit w/out problems, just my .02
What shocks are you running with your prokit?