Proceed with the "Weld" mod or take them back?
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From: bridgwater, nj
Proceed with the "Weld" mod or take them back? OK. So I am thinking about taking back my Welds becasue the mods to get these to work just seem to snowball into a big PITA. I have a pair of 15x10" Prostars.
Here is my take on it.
So I am going to go with the 26" tire ( 275/50/15). This seems to be the perfect height for me right now at my power level. Is it absolutely necessary to run a 5/16 spacer with the Welds? I've search adn read alot about this last night and found mixed answers.
according to some posts, I've read, that without a spacer I will be grinding alot. Is it safe to grind that much out of the calipers? They are supposed to sink the heat and taking more material away negates that.
Also, if I run the spacer, then I will need longer lugs. The ARP are longer at 2.5" but not long enough. GM makes 3", so I've read, but are not strong enough. Then there are Moroso, but they are 1/2" which means I will have to drill/tap all four corners to run them, which then makes you NHRA legal and safe.
This just seems like it snowballs into a big PITA. I'm almost considering taking these Welds back and just calling Steve@SJM for some Bogart prices.
So, say I took the hit and ordered a pair of Bogarts, would longer studs still be neccessary? Could I be OK with the ARP (2.5") or will I still have to do the work (drill/tap) to get the Morosos (3") in there?
Much info is appreciate greatly. Thanks
Here is my take on it.
So I am going to go with the 26" tire ( 275/50/15). This seems to be the perfect height for me right now at my power level. Is it absolutely necessary to run a 5/16 spacer with the Welds? I've search adn read alot about this last night and found mixed answers.
according to some posts, I've read, that without a spacer I will be grinding alot. Is it safe to grind that much out of the calipers? They are supposed to sink the heat and taking more material away negates that.
Also, if I run the spacer, then I will need longer lugs. The ARP are longer at 2.5" but not long enough. GM makes 3", so I've read, but are not strong enough. Then there are Moroso, but they are 1/2" which means I will have to drill/tap all four corners to run them, which then makes you NHRA legal and safe.
This just seems like it snowballs into a big PITA. I'm almost considering taking these Welds back and just calling Steve@SJM for some Bogart prices.
So, say I took the hit and ordered a pair of Bogarts, would longer studs still be neccessary? Could I be OK with the ARP (2.5") or will I still have to do the work (drill/tap) to get the Morosos (3") in there?
Much info is appreciate greatly. Thanks
Bogarts are nice wheels! Basically they have a spacer welded to the back of them to fit an F-body. You will still need the longer studs just like having welds with spacers. Or you could get the spacer welded to your prostars if that makes you feel safer, it would be cheaper. Bogarts are nicer looking and lighter. So it's just what you want to do with your money.
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From: bridgwater, nj
I figure the ARP studs will fit with the Bogarts and I dont have to grind the caliper so I am gonna try to take the welds back.
Anyone run the LT1 Bogarts on an LS1. Steve said a little grinding is required but will alllow for better tire clearence around the wheel well/fender lip ?
Anyone run the LT1 Bogarts on an LS1. Steve said a little grinding is required but will alllow for better tire clearence around the wheel well/fender lip ?
I wouldnt take them back... i have the exact same setup... took about 1hr on the first wheel and about 45 mins on the otherside to grind them down. It wasnt bad at all (except when i was grinding in the rain) and they fit W/O any SPACER on factory studs!!
Had a little system that I and another guy used:
NEED:
1.prostar w/o tire
2. 3 lugs and washers (for wheels)
3. 4-7" hand grinder (used a 4.5" worked ok)
4. spray dye (found it in blue at a welders shop)
5. towel to cover the caliper when sprayin dye
6. jack and jack stands
7. lug wrench
To start u can just put the wheel up to the caliper and see where its hittin... grind on it for about 10mins then take it off, eyeball it again... Grind for another 10mins... then spray the caliper. put the wheel on tighten lugs spin it if possible (prob wont be at first) so wiggle it the best you can to make marks in the dye... take off the wheel see where it rubs... grind sum more. keep doin it until it free spins.
After you do 1 ull know where you need to grind on the other and the 2nd goes quick.
It wasnt that big of a deal, you do get alot of metal shaving on the ground and on your clothes. But other than that its simple.
Had a little system that I and another guy used:
NEED:
1.prostar w/o tire
2. 3 lugs and washers (for wheels)
3. 4-7" hand grinder (used a 4.5" worked ok)
4. spray dye (found it in blue at a welders shop)
5. towel to cover the caliper when sprayin dye
6. jack and jack stands
7. lug wrench
To start u can just put the wheel up to the caliper and see where its hittin... grind on it for about 10mins then take it off, eyeball it again... Grind for another 10mins... then spray the caliper. put the wheel on tighten lugs spin it if possible (prob wont be at first) so wiggle it the best you can to make marks in the dye... take off the wheel see where it rubs... grind sum more. keep doin it until it free spins.
After you do 1 ull know where you need to grind on the other and the 2nd goes quick.
It wasnt that big of a deal, you do get alot of metal shaving on the ground and on your clothes. But other than that its simple.
