MT's or Nittos
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 183
Likes: 1
From: West Palm Beach, Fl
MT's or Nittos I know that just about everyone says that the MT d/r are a lot better than the nittos but how much more stress will they put on the weak 10 bolt. I want some d/r's and I cant decide between the two. It's not my DD so the fact that the MT's dont last many miles dosent matter. Also what would be a good price for a set of four for either brand?
I'm probably just going to go with 275/40/17 on my factory SS wheels.
I'm probably just going to go with 275/40/17 on my factory SS wheels.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
From: DeLaWaRe
I know that just about everyone says that the MT d/r are a lot better than the nittos but how much more stress will they put on the weak 10 bolt. I want some d/r's and I cant decide between the two. It's not my DD so the fact that the MT's dont last many miles dosent matter. Also what would be a good price for a set of four for either brand?
I'm probably just going to go with 275/40/17 on my factory SS wheels.
I'm probably just going to go with 275/40/17 on my factory SS wheels.
I've heard of both MTs and 555Rs breaking the suck-bolt. It really depends on your sus. setup and whp. Most of the time, if you're under 400whp, there's nothing to worry about. Your gear ratio also plays a part, as well as the trans. M6s are renown for killing drivetrain parts more than the autos. LCAs will help keep the 10-bolt alive by cutting down/out wheel hop. I've watched a friend with a H&C, stalled, full bolt-on LS1 on STOCK suspension cut 1.5 60s all day(8-10 runs) on slicks with 2.73 gears and broke nothing. My vote is for the MTs due to the fact it's not likely you'll break anything on the street and your setup isn't full bolt-on yet with factory 3.42s I'm guessing.
