Ok, I just got a 98 T/A and it has the remains of a monsoon system with some hackjob GM delco cd player from some unknown car from 95. Niot the right HU, left door and sail panels speakers are blown, someone did pioneer 4 icnh coaxs in the rear, and the whole thing is USELESS. I've got a plan for a modest system, and I wanted to run it by you guys to see if I'm thinking absurdly here.

-New HU - I want a 1.5 or double DIN unit, specifically because I've noticed that a few of these models have much stronger power amps built in, like 45 watts RMS/80 peak. Other features I'd go for are rear AUX in, at least 2 preouts and IR remote control for PAC adaptor. Other than that, I just want it to light up red to match the T/A. Don't need screens, nav, anything at all really.

-Stock size components in the front doors, powered off the head unit

-Stock size coaxials in the sails, powered by the HU

-6x9's 92 or 3 way, don't care much) in the rear hatch area

-Passenger side stealth box w/10 inch sub

-4 channel amp, mounted in stock location, not completely sure about power that I want, 2 channels powering the 6x9's and the other 2 bridged to run the 10 inch sub.

I'd get some runflats to eliminate the spare tire.

Any suggestions? Budget is a concern, I do have the sub already but no box, I do have some pioneer 2 way 6x9's that are fairly decent, other than that I've got to source everything and I don't want to lose any space in the car. I've got nav, communication, etc taken care of - this system is to serve as basically a nasty amp for my pocket PC which will be in the car, it has GPs, OBDII scanning, phone and voice command for it all.

I'm not sure how much I should expect to spend, but I'm not expecting top quality stuiff really, just a decent, well matched system on as low of a budget I can. Used gear is a plus!

 

Why would you want to put that much sound behind you? You're already planning coaxial speakers for the sail panels so why put amplified 6x9s (which won't fit without significant modification of the panels - not to mention that 6x9s suck compared to equivalent round speakers) all the way in the back. Your sound stage will be badly messed up.

There are very few 1.5 DIN head units still available. Pioneer has a couple of them that I think are still available. Double DIN will fit but you'll need to make or buy a modified trim bezel and the HUs tend to be more expensive.

You might consider getting a 4-channel amp for the doors and sail panels, a small amp for the sub, and ditching the hatch speakers. The sound would be better for about the same cost since you could get a head unit without worrying about output power.

Also, why a passenger's side stealth box? The more common driver's side stealth box would be easier to install and you wouldn't be left with the cost and lousy ride of run-flats.

 

I agree with everything WB said. But I wouldn't even bother with sail speakers unless you commonly have people back there. I just run components up front with tweeter pods and a Fi Q12 (yes, 12) in the back and I like the configuration a lot. Definitely avoid the hatch speakers. I left mine in but disconnected them.

 

You are thinking too hard....components in the front, maybe some midbass drivers in the sail panel and a drivers side stealthbox with a 10" sub driven by 4 channel and monoblock amps. I personally am ditching the hatch and sail panel speakers and just running some CDT components in the front and a 10" Alpine Type R Sub in a drivers side stealth box driven by a 4 channel amp (bridged into 2) and a monoblock. If you are worried about saving your CD changer, DON'T BE because you can use it with the new headunit anyways. You can always start with....
Components in the front (get a nice set, CDT, Focul, etc.)
4 Channel Amp
Stealth Box
10" Sub of your choice
monoblock amp

then if you feel the need for some sail panel speakers then add them later. After doing a bunch of reading on some car audio forums most people ditch any speakers behind them (not including the sub) unless that have a lot of passengers. I have yet to get my amp and components hooked up yet but with the 100W power rating of the components, im sure front components will be more than enough. Also, since I plan on only running front speakers, when I do the install I will be RaaMATing the door panels and some areas in the rear hatch.