Will I need a diff Alternator?
Originally Posted by tuffluck
that file is too big. it can't be over 250k.
if you are staying above or around 13 (according to the voltometer, although it's pretty inaccurate), you should be fine.
if you are staying above or around 13 (according to the voltometer, although it's pretty inaccurate), you should be fine.
My voltmeter drops to the red. 
Originally Posted by tuffluck
haven't read a lot, but:
capacitors are bandaids. high-output alternators are the solution.
optima battery will do nothing more than a good ole autozone battery. don't waste your money. everyone goes on and on and on about the yellow/red top batteries, and truth be told, they will perform nearly the same next to each other. the "optima batteries are the best batteries you can own," is the second biggest ls1 owner brainwash up next to the, "zaino is the best thing to put on your car" one.
the way to get the most out of your battery is to upgrade the stock ground connection to 4 gauge as well as the wiring that runs from the battery to the 12v accessories on the other side of the engine battery. if you want a good battery to run your stereo on when your car is off for a long time, sure, buy the optima. i doubt you'll need to do this.
as far as "will you need a high-output alternator," it depends on how much lights-dimming you can handle. i have 2 10"s at 700 watts RMS and my lights dim to a noticeable effect. if you can handle it, then so can your alternator
and 4 gauge wire split into 2 separate 8 gauge wires will be good up to about 1200 watts RMS, then you need to upgrade. just make sure to keep the 8 gauge power wires and ground wires as short as possible.
capacitors are bandaids. high-output alternators are the solution.
optima battery will do nothing more than a good ole autozone battery. don't waste your money. everyone goes on and on and on about the yellow/red top batteries, and truth be told, they will perform nearly the same next to each other. the "optima batteries are the best batteries you can own," is the second biggest ls1 owner brainwash up next to the, "zaino is the best thing to put on your car" one.
the way to get the most out of your battery is to upgrade the stock ground connection to 4 gauge as well as the wiring that runs from the battery to the 12v accessories on the other side of the engine battery. if you want a good battery to run your stereo on when your car is off for a long time, sure, buy the optima. i doubt you'll need to do this.
as far as "will you need a high-output alternator," it depends on how much lights-dimming you can handle. i have 2 10"s at 700 watts RMS and my lights dim to a noticeable effect. if you can handle it, then so can your alternator
and 4 gauge wire split into 2 separate 8 gauge wires will be good up to about 1200 watts RMS, then you need to upgrade. just make sure to keep the 8 gauge power wires and ground wires as short as possible.
the batteries are a difference though. Optimum yellow top remain the same output power no matter what amount of current you are pulling. Standard batteries do not. It's already a proven fact on deep cycle batteries. You don't see high powered competition people using 4-8 standard batteries.
caps are bandaids, exactly. Buying a larger battery just buys you time.
It still boils down to listening time.
On average, even at high volume, I pused two 1200.1s and one 600.4 from kicker though my factory 136amp in my truck. However, I never had a problem until night time. After 10 mins, the dim started. Once the battery drains. However, once I dropped one of the 1200.1 amps, I could get a good 30 mins before the dim lights. It's about buying you time.
An alternator is a great solution. I beleive fosgate puts a good chart up for what kind of alternator is recommended for the power required.
It still boils down to time or if you are competing in competiton. Hands down in competiton, it's 2-4 batteries and a big alternator including caps. You want the highest possible output with the least amount of drain. Been there and done that. It gets exspensive.
get yourself a batcap if your serious in need of power..those babies are bad ***...my buddy had one in his mr2 and was using it as his main battery while he went to get a new "battery" for his car..they are about the size of a motorcycle battery maybee smaller...they can discharge an ugodly amount of juice,,,ill have to look up the specs on them..i havent dealt with them in a while...if needed i have a 1/2 farad monster cap that i will sell cheap...proably too small for what you need but i ran a 450 watt coustic amp,300 watt sony amp for mids and highs all with stock charging system with the cap..
what do ya'll think about my video? Upgrade wiring or alternator?
How much wire should I get to upgrade the ground and power? Well, let me rephrase. How many feet of ground and how many feet of power should I get? I'd like to get seperate colors so it'll be coordinated.
How much wire should I get to upgrade the ground and power? Well, let me rephrase. How many feet of ground and how many feet of power should I get? I'd like to get seperate colors so it'll be coordinated.
video still doesn't work for me.
i would take the car to autozone and have them check the charging system. they'll tell you how many volts your car is consistently putting out. when i changed my battery, i had also put on a 4 gauge ground wire for the battery, and then had it tested. this was immediately after installing the battery, and the car takes a little bit to relearn a new battery.
anyway, i was just running a regular ole dynomax from a-zone, and then they tested the charging system. with the AC on max, the high beams on, the radio up damn loud, and the windshield wipers on, in neutral, i was still consistently hitting 13.5 volts or so.
if your car is doing above 13 volts consistently then you are probably ok. these voltometers are not always very accurate, and some, like yours, could be worse than others.
i would take the car to autozone and have them check the charging system. they'll tell you how many volts your car is consistently putting out. when i changed my battery, i had also put on a 4 gauge ground wire for the battery, and then had it tested. this was immediately after installing the battery, and the car takes a little bit to relearn a new battery.
anyway, i was just running a regular ole dynomax from a-zone, and then they tested the charging system. with the AC on max, the high beams on, the radio up damn loud, and the windshield wipers on, in neutral, i was still consistently hitting 13.5 volts or so.
if your car is doing above 13 volts consistently then you are probably ok. these voltometers are not always very accurate, and some, like yours, could be worse than others.
Originally Posted by InfiniteReality
what do ya'll think about my video? Upgrade wiring or alternator?
How much wire should I get to upgrade the ground and power? Well, let me rephrase. How many feet of ground and how many feet of power should I get? I'd like to get seperate colors so it'll be coordinated.
How much wire should I get to upgrade the ground and power? Well, let me rephrase. How many feet of ground and how many feet of power should I get? I'd like to get seperate colors so it'll be coordinated.
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Verdad Gallardo 3ft of power and 3ft of ground should cover alt power and ground to chassis and engine grounding?
Maybe tryin clearing you cache and it'll let you download the video? I can download on mine, but who knows... Try this link and maybe it'll let you?
http://infinitereality.250free.com/Video/Firehawk/
Maybe tryin clearing you cache and it'll let you download the video? I can download on mine, but who knows... Try this link and maybe it'll let you?
http://infinitereality.250free.com/Video/Firehawk/
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2003
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Originally Posted by InfiniteReality
I'm running 2-8ga power wires (pulls more current than 1-4ga plus had 1-8ga already ran).
And if you're have that serious of a problem with that small amount of power you're running, something else is wrong.
Originally Posted by firebirdude
Just a note for ya. Two 8g wires will NOT be able to handle as much current as a single run of 4g. You can go to www.bcae1.com and click on #16 for a chart if you must. Like the old question.... which moves more water? Two hoses that are 1" in diameter, or a single hose that is 2" in diameter? And if you're have that serious of a problem with that small amount of power you're running, something else is wrong.
And if you're have that serious of a problem with that small amount of power you're running, something else is wrong.
Damn, sorry, that was pretty funny. 
But he did say this: Running a 4ga ground that's got a "T" connector with 2-8ga off of it to the amps.
So he does have it set up. He just worded it all wrong.
Last edited by wickedwarlock; Dec 31, 2004 at 12:23 PM.
Originally Posted by firebirdude
Just a note for ya. Two 8g wires will NOT be able to handle as much current as a single run of 4g. You can go to www.bcae1.com and click on #16 for a chart if you must. Like the old question.... which moves more water? Two hoses that are 1" in diameter, or a single hose that is 2" in diameter? And if you're have that serious of a problem with that small amount of power you're running, something else is wrong.
And if you're have that serious of a problem with that small amount of power you're running, something else is wrong.
Originally Posted by Prophecy
Im running a fosgate 1000 rms power hx2 ported and an audiobahn 2400 rms amp (1/2 power) and a fosgate 400rms 4 channel off my stock alternator and a red top.
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first off that amp is way to big for a single 12" L7 .
also save up and get a upgraded alt.
that is where everything begins. if u add a cap or battery it is just going to put more demand on your alt. everything u add needs juice, and the alt is what produces juice.
also save up and get a upgraded alt.
that is where everything begins. if u add a cap or battery it is just going to put more demand on your alt. everything u add needs juice, and the alt is what produces juice.
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From: Showing Italians the power of LS1
Alright, found this thread again and will revive it!
Just upgraded my primary wire to 1/0 to my fuse dist. block. then have 2-8ga and 1-4ga out of it. I also upgraded my ground to a 1/0 (yeah overkill, but looks cool and matches my power). I have not upgraded my alternator wire. Should I?? I have extra 1/0 wire to do so and think I may have some 4ga as well. Which should I use? Just replace existing alt power wire or add to it? I have also since added a US Acoustics USX1000D amp. mono amp, class D and rated at 1250w RMS @ 1 ohm. I have my 3 10w3v2s wired with a 0.7 ohm load, but have turned down the gain to compensate. Now with full volume, my batter voltage on the digital cap readout jumps down to 11.6ish.
What should I do? Upgrade my stock alt wiring for now and see what happens? Upgrade my alt?
BTW, with AC on, stereo turned down, if I hit my brakes I feel/hear the AC slow down a good bit. Alt going out?
Please ignore all the dust
Just upgraded my primary wire to 1/0 to my fuse dist. block. then have 2-8ga and 1-4ga out of it. I also upgraded my ground to a 1/0 (yeah overkill, but looks cool and matches my power). I have not upgraded my alternator wire. Should I?? I have extra 1/0 wire to do so and think I may have some 4ga as well. Which should I use? Just replace existing alt power wire or add to it? I have also since added a US Acoustics USX1000D amp. mono amp, class D and rated at 1250w RMS @ 1 ohm. I have my 3 10w3v2s wired with a 0.7 ohm load, but have turned down the gain to compensate. Now with full volume, my batter voltage on the digital cap readout jumps down to 11.6ish.
What should I do? Upgrade my stock alt wiring for now and see what happens? Upgrade my alt?
BTW, with AC on, stereo turned down, if I hit my brakes I feel/hear the AC slow down a good bit. Alt going out?
Please ignore all the dust
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: MD
Definately do the battery to alternator run and especially the ground from the alternator/engine to chassis. I have the full big 3 done with 4 guage with the existing wiring still there and only a 4 guage run back to the distro block to my amps. With 1200 watts rms my voltage always stays above 13 with the engine running and I get hardly any light dimmage. The Diamond amps are pretty efficient and are regulated though so another amp may not act the same.