so i've read a few threads and pages over adding the proper resistor to the VATS wires under the column to disable the sercurity light issue. I'm having some issues with my mult-meter measuring the resistance on my keys. More often its' in the 1100ohm range, but it sometimes jumps to almost 2000ohms and down to 890ohms. Any ideas on getting a better result? My light acts normal until about 5 miles of highway driving. Just driving around the city for a while never triggers it. I just would like to know the cause. I do have an issue with my BCM. My stereo would lose power unless i had my hand pulling the BCM towards the back of the car. I still have the factory head unit and amp, but have new speakers throughout. Is my best bet to just install my new jvc cd player directly off the battery, run a new ground, and find a new remote source(any ideas on the best source for a remote wire close to the cd player?) I was already planning on taking out the factory amp and installing an old alpine amp i have to power my 6.5"midbass behind the seats. I was planning on running just new speaker wire leads to all the speaker locations or is that overkill for a cd player amp? I understand that the midrange speakers in the doors are powered by the factory amp in the spare area. So i'm guessing wires are ran back there 1st then back up to the speakers? Thanks for any help or light you can shed my way. Look me up if you ever need any Toyota, Lexus, or Scion parts. Wholesale prices!


ok. i put a 4700ohm and a 50 ohm resistor in to take place of the key. Still wouldn't start. I put pressure on the panel underneath the BCM and it would start. Guess i'm back to tracing wires. I know i can get the Prom programmed to disable the VATS system. What all else does the BCM control beside the security and stereo? Would it be cheapest to have the chip programmed and just hard wire the stereo? Still need a remote wire location if anyone can help?