Subwoofer In the convertibles
 

Where is your amp and box placed?

Thanks

My box is in the large well in the bottom of the trunk. i have two JL Audio 13" woofers installed in it!! i bought a pre-fab speaker box for a t-top, since i couldnt find one for a vert. i then modified it by shaving og the back ege of the box, then make a notch in the front of the box so it would drop in.

Looks great!!!

I removed my spare tire, and a building an amp rack (as we speak) the same size and shape as the spare tire. My amp will sit flush in it. The amp rack will mount in the vehicle using the original spare tire mounting bolt and wing nut!! No holes!!!
I am exhausting the heat from the amp enclosure into the inner rear fender wells using a 12 volt fan!! Totally stealth. I can also make a spare tire shaped sub box to hold one 10" sub or two 8" subs!! This will give much more air space than other designs. My friend has been a cabinet maker for over 20 years, and is making them for me to use. Mine will be the prototypes. We will build others at 200 each, for the amp rack ore either sub boxes!! They will be airtight, and well constructed and braced. i am an MECP certified installer (as a hobby) he builds custom cabinets for a living. Hope this helps!
Hugh

Pics of the set up?? I need to get a sub in mine ASAP!

Can get pics this week. We are building it as we speak!!
It is cool!!

Everyone knows that when the top is down no matter how much power ya got in the trunk the majority of it is blocked by the top and back glass thus the major issue with subs and verts! Have you tested this out prior to all this work? When I bought my car it had two 12"s and two amps and at best it vibrated the trunk lid horribly when the top was down, long as the top was up, it was killer.

For more reading on subs in verts, this link is in the VERT section:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/convertib...eo-thread.html

Heres mine.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSC00247.jpg

Nice setups you guys got going on, but my car is a dd so i need the trunk space.

I have a single 10" sub that I was thinking of mounting in a slim box on the left side of the trunk and I 'd need the spare tire as well.

It would be a custom built slim box to hold the 10" by the top's pump area. It be somewhat of a stealth box for the 'verts.

I 'll make something out of cardboard to show what I am talking about.

What do you need the trunk for that requires its used on a DD basis? Mine is a DD and the only time I've ever used the trunk is if I'm going cross country (which has been like twice)

I probably get flamed for this, but i use my car for every thing.

beach stuff in the summer, groceries, college textbooks but thats over with now, laundry bags, picking up friends from the airport.

Frankly trying to find a cleaner way of having sub box and amp instead of it just being tossed in the trunk.

I like where you put the amp, but doesn't it get in the way when the top is down?

Has anyone tried their subs with the top halfway down? Trying to find out if bass loss is so great because of no roof, or being blocked by the rear window.
If it is just because of the rear window, we may be able to have sheet metal cutout in the trunk to let the bass in, like is done with trucks that have subs mounted in the bed. I have heard of bass tubes that carry the bass from the bed of the truck to the cab. May work in ours? I am very determined to do this, as I love bass!!

Nope, just barely clears it. As Ace Ventura would say, "Like a glove!"


Its only when the top is totally down. And its not only because of the glass either. Its all the insulation of the top folding over on itself that muffles the bass. With my 2 10s powered by 200w each, its still audiable with the top down, but it doesnt slam like it does when its up. I too have dreamt of a nice port from the trunk into the cabin but, for all that custom work, I'd rather just fiber glass a box into the rear seat wells.

Looked at my vert last night. On the passenger side there is a 4 inch hole that opens up from the cabin to the trunk (wiring runs thrugh, but still a good sized hole). I am going to try putting a vacuum cleaner hose through this hole into the trunk, then into the cabin.
Dont know if it will get smashed with the top down, but its worth a shot. I have two really good friends that were car stereo installers for many years that are going to look at it with me. I was also a certified car stereo installer, but went into home audio sales and install. One of my friends thought that the loss of bass was primarily because there is no top for the bass to compress. I dont have my subs in yet but hoping more people will try their subs with the top partially open to see what the response is like. I saw an installation in an convertible for an NFL player a while back. In his car there was nothing for the bass to compress against (no trunk , kinda like a jeep wrangler without a top). In his install, they mounted a solid loading board to the front of the box. Kinda like a big slot.
I remember reading in the install that this DRAMATICALLY improved the bass response in that vehicle. Once we pin down all issues, we can either port the bass into the cabin, and\or mount a loading board to the front of our box. My guess is that the loading board wont be needed, being that we have the trunk space which should compress thae bass. Thinking the bass tube may work!! I had some really difficult challenges having an amp rack built for my Nissan Titan, but worked through it. I WILL figure this out, and soon!!!

Ok,
I am installing two 13.5 inch Jl'S in the trunk next week.
Today I bought 1 1\2 inch smurftube from Home Depot. No Not anything to do with cartoon porn.
This is blue airtight flexible conduit.
With the top up, I ran two of these(one on top of the other, through the hole where the monsoon wiring leads into the trunk. I pulled the monsoon amp wiring from the trunk, back into the car to give me room. If you position them right, the top doesnt crush them!!
Since I removed the rear sail panel speakers(Am a die hard a\v guy, and want all imaging in the front) I am making a flat mdf (wood plate) where the speakers were to attach the smurftube.
I am doing the same thing on the other side, but it looks like only one 2 inch tube will fit.
I feel that this will greatly increase the chances of good bass in the vert. Will let you guys know in a week or two. A similar method is used to bring bass into a truck cab from the woofers mounted in the bed.
I am worried about port noise, but thinking will be ok, since trunk isnt airtight.
What do you guys think? Call me crazy, but I think this is going to work. If not, I am out a whole 10 bucks!!!
There is also area that can be cut out behind the sail panels. This should also work.If you run your hand inside the drivers inner fender in the trunk, youll end up behind the sail panel.I am not too crazy about even drilling holes in my car, much less paying someone to cut it up!!

Check this out!
http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csfor...ad.php?t=69145
This guy used 1 inch plexiglass as a loading board:eyes:
Sound familiar?
Thinking this, and possibly the port into our car will be the solution!

A buddy of mine with a vett used something called "bass shakers" which install under the drivers and passengers seats...anyone here think about those?

http://www.aurasound.com/public/bassshaker/body.html

Here's my setup :

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0023_large.jpg

Dual voice coil Image Dynamics 12" sub, in a sealed fiberglass stealth box in the spare tire well. Components are on the board to be removed easily as one piece, and the stealth box also comes out easily.

The hydraulics for the top are in the driver side rear well, you won't be able to put much in there unless you remove the hydraulics for the vert top. (That spot is great for coupes though).

Oh, and everyone is right about the bass with the top down, the vert top seals the trunk space off and you lose a lot of the bass.

Rob (Bad30th)

I like that ^ there.

Clean and simple.

I already have the subs and all the amps installed, along with headunit/components, so the system in functional, I just need to build (or have built) the subwoofer enclosures...

My idea is removing the rear-seat bottoms and having two boxes made to replace them. I am using some slimline 12" subs, and figure I should have from .75-1.1cu/ft per enclosure.

The amps I have are all Cerwin-Vega, with a EXL4004 bridged to two channels running some Cadence 6.5" front components, an EXL3502 running some Cadence 5.25" rear components and have an EXL1200 that will run the two 12" subs.

The idea is that I can pull the sub boxes when I want to run the stock seat buckets, and when the younger kids are riding in the car the boxes will act like more of a taller bench and thier booster seats will sit up higher so they have more visibility...

I tested with a larger 12" sub box and a single 12" is plenty in that location with the top down, and one behind each seat will be more than adequate sonically with a ton of 'hittin the kidneys' bass...

I thought those were only for home theater, but I should have figured they would eventually make their way to autos. Haven't personally seen them used in cars yet though. How did they perform in your friend's vette? I'd be interested in giving them a try if someone could confirm their performance.