but i need some mid-bass...

The status is i have 2 blown 6.5 (i think thats the size) sail panel speakers, they are pulled out of the car. I have a 1000watt monoblock amp powering 2 Alpine Type R 12's in a subthump box. and it has everything up till about 200hrtz...

My issue is anything above that is low bass drum, low bass line frequency is gone. I would like to put some kind of smaller quality sub into the sail panels to reclaim that lost frequency.... or would i have better luck just replacing the door speakers (stock). Would they pick up those lost frequencies ive been missing...

The headunit is an alpine as well, i forget the model but i can go check if its needed....

 

You don't need the sail panel speakers at all. There are no lost frequencies. Also, why the hell would you run your stealthbox up to 200Hz? That IS midbass, and is WAY too high.

That's a horrible setup and you were used to it, but it needs to change. Set that subwoofer to 80Hz (100Hz TOPS) and the door speakers can handle the rest.

 

20 - 200hrtz was just the range that the subs could handle, i havent dialed in the amp at all so i dont know exactly what frequencies its pushing. I do know it handles everything in the very low area, just misses some basslines as they are too high.

So your saying dont worry about the sail panels at all? just upgrade the door speakers? what about the hatch speakers? pointless?

 

alright i've got a similar set up... 2 12" Fosgate P2's in a subthump t-top box, running off a 1000 watt Fosgate D-Class Amp...

My system sounds great... when i got the car the door speakers and sail panels had been replaced with pioneer 2 way speakers... not components or midbass by any means i know, but i didn't put them there, to be replaced later...

you want your subs to be pushing the actual lower half of the the low frequencies... 200 hrtz is too high, if you're hearing voices coming out of the subs, the lpf is set too high... try 100 or lower...

if you have blown speakers replace them obviously, the hatch speakers aren't even audible from the front of the car so if you happen to blow them, either disconnect or replace, but don't spend too much time or money on them... honestly if you just replace your doors and sails with decent components it will sound fine, if you think you need the mid bass, get some 6.5 inch midbass drivers and you'll have more higher pitches from low tone intruments, such as the pad of a pedal hitting the bass drum but not the note itself and higher notes on a bass guitar... mid bass drivers will not give you what you want if you can tune your amp just right...

if going to replace speaker go with kee or read around about some other installs...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...tall-pics.html

thats the one i would go with, but kee will also do good as well...

Bottom line, you're Type R's are not getting the right signal from your amp is what it sounds like... your subs are really good and you shouldn't have a problem reaching any level of bass with them...play around with your amp adjusting frequency and overdrive(or whatever it is that adjust how hard your subs hit)...

Play play play... you'll find out what works and what doesn't... adjust your head unit as well so that your bass on you HU is in the negatives and mids are between 0 and highest number and highs are high, you've got tweeters so hear them, and your other speakers will do the rest

 

I did 3XL-60Cs in the doors and sail panels in my car, and they provide awesome mid-high ranges. I have a t-top car so I did the hidden box with a 10" powerbass s-10 sub. the speakers arn't amped, and it still sounds amazingly 10000000000000000000x better than stock. I couldn't imagine if i ampd the speakers. They sound very good.

 

I just posted this in another thread but here's what I did

I put full range speakers in the sail and got the signal from the rear hatch speakers. I then deleted the crap speakers in the hatch





You can see the scotch lock connectors getting signal in this picture:



The driver side hatch speaker wire run all the way up front so you can connect them just right there. The passenger side you have to get signal all the way from the hatch.

 

So deleting the hatch is the way to go eh? looks like im gonna do what you did LS1 Fury. What did you do about tweeters?

 

The best advice I can give you (and I am not an expert or anything) is all you need is a set of bad-*** components up front (2 way or 3 way) along with your subs and call it a day

Any money you would spend on back seat or hatch speakers should just be applied to increasing the bad-assness of said components

Trust me, nobody that sits in my fbody says " hey, where are your backseat speakers?"

Just a thought

Jman

 

people that sit in the back seat of my car are screwed... those speakers are nasty