Factory Alarm question?
Factory Alarm question? I have a 1998 Trams Am with a factory alarm system. It seems like when I push the unlock button on my key fob that sometimes it will turn the alarm off, but other times I'll get in or something and it will go off again.
I have smashed my head probably 5 times putzing with something and the damn alarm goes off!
Is has different types of beeps, which ones mean which? Like I said sometimes I can open both doors, slam them shut, punch the rear quarter panel, and nothing sounds. Other times I'll touch the door handle and it will sound (bit of exaggeration).
Also, anyone know what the easiest way to wire hatch speakers to the sail speaker is? I have read hundreds of threads that say to to do that, but none say how.
Any help?
Sorry if you have seen threads on this before, it IS NOT that easy to find what you're looking for unless it's in a sticky. So please don't bash me, after all, I'm a LS1 newbie
I have smashed my head probably 5 times putzing with something and the damn alarm goes off!
Is has different types of beeps, which ones mean which? Like I said sometimes I can open both doors, slam them shut, punch the rear quarter panel, and nothing sounds. Other times I'll touch the door handle and it will sound (bit of exaggeration).
Also, anyone know what the easiest way to wire hatch speakers to the sail speaker is? I have read hundreds of threads that say to to do that, but none say how.
Any help?
Sorry if you have seen threads on this before, it IS NOT that easy to find what you're looking for unless it's in a sticky. So please don't bash me, after all, I'm a LS1 newbie
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Are you sure that you have only a factory alarm system? The symptoms sound a lot like what happens when a car has had an aftermarket alarm installed but the factory alarm hasn't been disabled.
Why are you wanting to move the hatch wiring to the sail panels? That is sometimes recommended but only when somebody replaces the sail panel subs with something like coaxial speakers. The Monsoon amp filters the signal going to the sail panels so that they get nothing but bass. The hatch speakers get full-range signal so people will disconnect the hatch wires and pull them forward to the sail panels to power those coaxial speakers they're installing. This is not recommended unless you also add a sub and amp to replace the bass you lose.
Why are you wanting to move the hatch wiring to the sail panels? That is sometimes recommended but only when somebody replaces the sail panel subs with something like coaxial speakers. The Monsoon amp filters the signal going to the sail panels so that they get nothing but bass. The hatch speakers get full-range signal so people will disconnect the hatch wires and pull them forward to the sail panels to power those coaxial speakers they're installing. This is not recommended unless you also add a sub and amp to replace the bass you lose.
Are you sure that you have only a factory alarm system? The symptoms sound a lot like what happens when a car has had an aftermarket alarm installed but the factory alarm hasn't been disabled.
Why are you wanting to move the hatch wiring to the sail panels? That is sometimes recommended but only when somebody replaces the sail panel subs with something like coaxial speakers. The Monsoon amp filters the signal going to the sail panels so that they get nothing but bass. The hatch speakers get full-range signal so people will disconnect the hatch wires and pull them forward to the sail panels to power those coaxial speakers they're installing. This is not recommended unless you also add a sub and amp to replace the bass you lose.
Why are you wanting to move the hatch wiring to the sail panels? That is sometimes recommended but only when somebody replaces the sail panel subs with something like coaxial speakers. The Monsoon amp filters the signal going to the sail panels so that they get nothing but bass. The hatch speakers get full-range signal so people will disconnect the hatch wires and pull them forward to the sail panels to power those coaxial speakers they're installing. This is not recommended unless you also add a sub and amp to replace the bass you lose.
And I am not sure if their is an aftermarket alarm...where would I look to check that. I very recently bought the vehicle and am going through it to get everything back in working order. I'm very particular.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
It can be done but it's definitely not recommended for two reasons.
First, you will have to wire the sail panel speakers either in series or in parallel to the existing hatch speakers. Wiring in parallel is not safe for the amp because you present it with a 2-ohm load on that channel which it's not rated to handle. Wiring in series creates an 8-ohm load which the amp can handle but which cuts your power output in half.
Second... it will sound bad. You will be creating four full-range outputs coming from behind you. The hatch speakers are intended only for rear fill and are completely unnecessary when you have full-range sail panel speakers behind you. More is not always better.
First, you will have to wire the sail panel speakers either in series or in parallel to the existing hatch speakers. Wiring in parallel is not safe for the amp because you present it with a 2-ohm load on that channel which it's not rated to handle. Wiring in series creates an 8-ohm load which the amp can handle but which cuts your power output in half.
Second... it will sound bad. You will be creating four full-range outputs coming from behind you. The hatch speakers are intended only for rear fill and are completely unnecessary when you have full-range sail panel speakers behind you. More is not always better.
