slo_lt1

iTrader: (2)

found out the ticking noise was an aftermarket alarm someone installed, its a freakin rats nest down there.i found the stud with the ground but cant find the actual module what does it look like?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The DRL module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes mounted to the HVAC ductwork directly behind the radio. It has two connectors, an 8-pin black and an 8-pin blue.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I checked the pinout for the blue PCM connector and couldn't see anything that would be related to this problem. Most of the wires in that connector are for various engine and transmission sensors. I would think that if that connector was broken it would be causing a lot of engine problems that you could hardly miss.

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

I had no luck cranking the car with the DRL module unplugged nor by swapping non-cracked plastic blue/red connectors on the pcm connectors. I'll be swapping in a known good 99 pcm after work to just ensure I'm not experiencing and odd PCM issue although im already 99% sure that's not it.

slo_lt1

iTrader: (2)

how the hell did you unplug that thing?? for the life of me i cant unplug it ive been trying for like 30mins

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Pull it off the rails it sits on first. Then using a small flat head depress the hook tab and pull out on the connector.

slo_lt1

iTrader: (2)

i guess im retarded or mine is just being difficult i gave up lol

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Finally nailed my issue down! I can't believe how dumb I am for not realizing my schematic was upside down. The schematic for the gauge cluster is actually a complete upside mirror image of what the connector in the car actually is. I was not visualizing it coming from the back which is how it was written. Anyways I realized that pin B15 was only producing 2V of ground when grounded through a 12V source. I patched in a cable from that wire to the drivers kick panel ground spot and bam EVERYTHING is working now except my brake light stays on for the e-brake system. I'm sure that will easy or I can just permanetley ground it to not have it.

Thanks for all the help White Bird!

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Slo LT1 check that B15 ground for 12V grounding capability. I'm curious as to whether that was the problem...

slo_lt1

iTrader: (2)

what connector are you talking about and how do i check for ground? i have a multimeter but dont really know how to use it.

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Just run a wire connected to the Red post on the driver side under hood of your car which is a main power supply. Connect that to the positive of your multimeter...then using the schematic White Bird posted early in this thread check the two pin outs listed as grounds. They are behind the cluster so you have to remove it to check.

slo_lt1

iTrader: (2)

ok ill do that tonite

rabbit320

iTrader: (11)

I had the same issue where my dash gauges wouldnt work, the speedo, rpm's, fuel, and odometer; the rest worked fine. this was odd and happened right after i removed my radio. after checking fuses i found the PWR ACCY fuse on the driver side of the dash was blown. not sure why it failed, but glad i found this thread for the cure!

Jremix81

iTrader: (2)

Which wire is the tach getting the signal from? I keep hearing it's the white one but there isn't a white wire on the cluster connector.

AndrewLSXOverland

Need help!
see its an old thread lemme give it some life...
I've pulled the cluster out and put a new one in
the gauges go up and down like it is calibrating
and when i fire it up just the volt guage workjs the oil pressure
wraps around and nothing else works and every light is on on the dash...
someone p[lease help me?:confus ed: