Engine won't crank, not VATS, clutch safety switch, battery
01-19-2024, 08:32 AM
#22
06-14-2024, 12:11 PM
#23
Hi, sorry to bring this back, but Whitebird seems to know his stuff. I have a 97 SS, 50K miles. I just rebuilt the motor and replaced it and took it for a couple of 20 min drives that were fine. I went out to move it and I had no crank, no dash lights, no VATS light. Dash lights do come on with the headlights though theres no numbers on the odometer and I have p1626. The only thing I did to the car since last time I drove it was I ran a power wire from the interior fuse panel (AACY) to the exhaust cutout which is working. I have been reading and posting about VATS for the last few weeks. I think I found one example of a VATS issue without the VATS light coming on, but none where the person had no dash lights. The fuses seemed to fine. I installed a aftermarket steering wheel when I did the motor and didnt realize I needed to take out the clockspring (I know...), so I kept trying to tighten the nut to get the wheel closer to the column before I figured it out... i tightened it pretty good. Given the dash lights coming on must be triggered by the key/column and vats wires also come from the column is it possible I damaged these wires somehow by doing that? Of course it ran fine for a while after that. With only 50k mles and no VATS light I feel like its not VATS despite the p1626. I feel like if I find the cause of the dash light issue I might find the problem. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
06-15-2024, 11:47 AM
#24
OK, I dont understand this but here it is. While researching this problem I came across a post suggesting to light probe the fuses to really make sure they are good rather than just looking at them (which I did). I gave it a shot and sure enough the dash light fuse was bad. Looked normal but whatever. So i replaced it, got in the car and turned the ignition on and voila dash lights. Then I looked to see if now I have a security light to account for the P1626. No security light. So I thought what the hell and tried to start it. IT STARTED RIGHT UP!. OMG. Can this be right? It must be cuase Im lookin right at it! (to quote my favorite youtuber). I cant believe GM would design this thing so its completely bricked if the dash light fuse is out?? Discuss...
06-17-2024, 10:22 AM
#25
Are you sure it was the IP DIMMER fuse or was it the COURTESY fuse? The 5A IP DIMMER fuse (#16) is the one which protects the dash background illumination... if it was blown, your dash lights would be out but nothing else would be affected. On the other hand, the 20A COURTESY fuse (#8) is the one which protects the interior (map) lights. Those are controlled by the BCM which is also what contains VATS along with several other accessories like the power windows and locks, optional factory alarm system, the seat belt warning light, warning chimes, etc. If the COURTESY fuse is blown, the BCM won't work and the car won't start because VATS can't provide the necessary control of the starter relay.
06-17-2024, 06:22 PM
#26
It was #9 "gauges". I think I figured it out. Maybe my year is different than yours but the BCM on the 97 camaro is powered by #9. The BCM is part of VATS so I think thats how I got the P1626, and no security light just because all the lights were out. And I think the fuse was blown by the power wire I ran, its the only thing that changed. I read a post by a guy who blew the #9 fuse by running a power wire from the IGN for a line lock (mine was run from ACCY). Thats when I went and looked at all the fuses but again #9 appeared to be normal at the time. Strange though that the cutout kept working despite this blown fuse. I still find it hard to believe they would let a blown dash light fuse brick a car.
