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Battery relocation

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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 11:48 PM
  #21  
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no problem man.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 01:59 PM
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If its hard to start in any way when im done than I will change the wire to the starter bigger
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:04 PM
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Gonna do this. Good info here. Subscribin for reference later
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 07:06 AM
  #24  
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I just finished mine and this is how I did it. I would not suggest it though. A lot of people have had succces with like a T-block up front and just running from bat + to block then power to starter and such from there. I will be changing mine up here to run anothe 0 GA from bat + to starter +. I have issues with it cranking off, only way to get it to start is by peddling the gas.

Bat + to Aux Post (0 AWG wire)
Alt + to Aux Post (original wire)
Starter + to Aux post (original wire)

Bat - to chassis (0 AWG wire)
Alt - in original location (original wire)
Starter - in original location (original wire)
Engine block to chassis (original wire)
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 02:08 PM
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Good info. Next mod for me. What length of wire do you use? Also the 1 aught or 0 gauge
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 05:17 PM
  #26  
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Welding shop told me its called 1 aught 0. Is that right?
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 05:24 PM
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As an electrician I can tell you that 1 aught is extremely rigid and hard to form which makes me consider using a set of booster cables and putting my own ends on them
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 09:05 AM
  #28  
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You would need to buy one expensive as hell set of jumper cables to get 0 gauge wire. I have been looking at this two. largest jumper cables I have found are 2 Gauge.

I was going to use very large gauge wire and use brass stock to attach the factory cables to the wires run up from the batter at the back. You can use Ohms law to make sure you have zero resistance from the battery in back to the cables up front, then just attach the factory cables to cables you ran up front. If cable size/quality vs length is right, will be no different from having the battery attached right there.

Can any of you guys give wire length, where you routed it, how you secured it etc?
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #29  
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I have seen pics of some guys running it underneath and then through the crossmember and i guess make a hole underneath the fender? Agreed someone needs to share pics
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by h_friesen
As an electrician I can tell you that 1 aught is extremely rigid and hard to form which makes me consider using a set of booster cables and putting my own ends on them
As an electrician I am sure you know that not all wire is created equal... 1/0 or 1 aught is merely a wire size. 1/0 cable is the same as size zero. How fine and how many strands of wire is what is going to contribute to the rigidity of the wire, not the size.
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 08:02 PM
  #31  
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welding cable will be decently flexiable
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