Monsoon Replacement
Absolutely. Aftermarket HU with PAC adapter to retain steering controls. A good set of component speakers for the doors. A quality set of midbass drivers is my preference but some will also use a set of coaxials for the same location. I personally use a midbass tuned slightly higher then my sub for a transition from low end bass to more midbass and midrange blend. Some like the coaxial in that location for more of a surround type sound with highs coming from all sides but I personally think it takes away from the front stage. Pure preference.
I also think a nice 10" sub in a stealth enclosure in the rear is more then enough bass for most and rounds out the low end quite nicely.
For power I like to use a 5-channel amp of good quality as well. JBL, Hifonics, JL Audio, Infinity Kappa, etc. A 5-channel is 2 amps in one and will easily power a full system. These type of amps have a 4-channel amp to run the front and rear speakers and a built in 5th channel sub amp to power your sub all in one amp. They are easy to tune and easy to power because you don't need to run a 2 amp system. Everything is ran to one amp that does it all. The Infinity Kappa and JL are also tiny amps\ for as much power as they make. The JL also has smart inputs so you can put in speaker level signal to them.
I also have some micro amps that are high power that take up very little room but have big power for around the same price.
I've put together several systems on here for members that include all of the above with all the install gear for less then a thousand. This was for high end gear as well that will sound as good 10 years from now as it does now.
I also think a nice 10" sub in a stealth enclosure in the rear is more then enough bass for most and rounds out the low end quite nicely.
For power I like to use a 5-channel amp of good quality as well. JBL, Hifonics, JL Audio, Infinity Kappa, etc. A 5-channel is 2 amps in one and will easily power a full system. These type of amps have a 4-channel amp to run the front and rear speakers and a built in 5th channel sub amp to power your sub all in one amp. They are easy to tune and easy to power because you don't need to run a 2 amp system. Everything is ran to one amp that does it all. The Infinity Kappa and JL are also tiny amps\ for as much power as they make. The JL also has smart inputs so you can put in speaker level signal to them.
I also have some micro amps that are high power that take up very little room but have big power for around the same price.
I've put together several systems on here for members that include all of the above with all the install gear for less then a thousand. This was for high end gear as well that will sound as good 10 years from now as it does now.
Wellllll....obviously it depends on what you want and how much ya got. 
Kee is a good guy on this forum and always gives good advice like he did above. If you're "cheap" like me, and just want something better than the crappy stock sound, here's a few tips:
I found (and others will agree) that the stock HU is the weakest part of the stock setup. I found that even a cheap aftermarket HU is better sounding than the stock one, plus there have been a lot of advances in the ten years since the last 4th Gen was built, especially if you want USB and aux in.
Then ya got speakers. This is the hardest part because the stock door speakers are component, not coaxial, so you really can't just cheap out on this part. I found the stock speakers are okay with just a HU upgrade, so again, if you're short on cash, go with the best HU you can find/like first, then look for a set of component speakers. Kee has a set that I'm saving up for and a lot of people like, but if your speakers are blown (and it's a good chance that's the case), there is a mod to get certain coaxials to work. Again, the best way is to get true components.
As far as the amp, again, most people say it's decent and probably the best part of the stock setup.
In short, IMO, if you're short on $$$$, put as much as you can toward the HU if your speakers aren't blown, then get the speakers, then an amp.
The main thing is DON'T let anyone tell you you've got to rip everything out at once and start over just because you have the Monsoon system and you want better than stock sound.
Kee is a good guy on this forum and always gives good advice like he did above. If you're "cheap" like me, and just want something better than the crappy stock sound, here's a few tips:
I found (and others will agree) that the stock HU is the weakest part of the stock setup. I found that even a cheap aftermarket HU is better sounding than the stock one, plus there have been a lot of advances in the ten years since the last 4th Gen was built, especially if you want USB and aux in.
Then ya got speakers. This is the hardest part because the stock door speakers are component, not coaxial, so you really can't just cheap out on this part. I found the stock speakers are okay with just a HU upgrade, so again, if you're short on cash, go with the best HU you can find/like first, then look for a set of component speakers. Kee has a set that I'm saving up for and a lot of people like, but if your speakers are blown (and it's a good chance that's the case), there is a mod to get certain coaxials to work. Again, the best way is to get true components.
As far as the amp, again, most people say it's decent and probably the best part of the stock setup.
In short, IMO, if you're short on $$$$, put as much as you can toward the HU if your speakers aren't blown, then get the speakers, then an amp.
The main thing is DON'T let anyone tell you you've got to rip everything out at once and start over just because you have the Monsoon system and you want better than stock sound.
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Temecula, CA
just looked at the KEE package... looked like a nice deal until i researched the CDT speakers included.
they are 4 ohm. i read all over the monsoon FAQ you need 2 ohm speakers or you will pretty much cut your output levels in half. (4 ohm is double the resistence soooo...)
do your homework! the FAQ is your friend!
just sayin'...
they are 4 ohm. i read all over the monsoon FAQ you need 2 ohm speakers or you will pretty much cut your output levels in half. (4 ohm is double the resistence soooo...)
do your homework! the FAQ is your friend!
just sayin'...
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
just looked at the KEE package... looked like a nice deal until i researched the CDT speakers included.
they are 4 ohm. i read all over the monsoon FAQ you need 2 ohm speakers or you will pretty much cut your output levels in half. (4 ohm is double the resistence soooo...)
do your homework! the FAQ is your friend!
just sayin'...
they are 4 ohm. i read all over the monsoon FAQ you need 2 ohm speakers or you will pretty much cut your output levels in half. (4 ohm is double the resistence soooo...)
do your homework! the FAQ is your friend!
just sayin'...
Much has been said about the different impedance levels of the factory speakers and most aftermarket speakers but this is not a critical factor. Replacing factory 2-ohm speakers with aftermarket 4-ohm ones would normally cause a noticeable reduction in the volume because of cutting the output power in half. Cutting the power in half does not result in half the volume... it results in a 3dB drop in volume which is noticeable but not a huge difference. That assumes that the speakers have the same sensitivity (efficiency). If the replacement speaker is at least 3dB more sensitive than the original speaker then there will be no loss of volume. The factory speakers are notoriously inefficient so almost any aftermarket replacement, regardless of rated impedance, is going to sound better.
