upgrading my sound system
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I have my HU removed and trunk panels off for now. I'm about to remove the panels in between but it was cold outside this weekend. I'll verify this, but I think my power cables go along the passenger side and through the firewall to my battery.
I have noticed that there is feedback through my speakers especially now that I don't have a HU installed. It varies with my engine RPM. If my RPM increases, the feedback/static noise increases. So I think I'm going to route my RCA cables down the driver side. Should this help with the noise?
EDIT: I checked out the link you provided. How are these cables? Seems it MIGHT help with my noise problem, plus it's 4 channels into one which might keep the cables cleaner.
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I have noticed that there is feedback through my speakers especially now that I don't have a HU installed. It varies with my engine RPM. If my RPM increases, the feedback/static noise increases. So I think I'm going to route my RCA cables down the driver side. Should this help with the noise?
EDIT: I checked out the link you provided. How are these cables? Seems it MIGHT help with my noise problem, plus it's 4 channels into one which might keep the cables cleaner.
(non-sponsor link removed)
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Mar 29, 2011 at 07:33 AM. Reason: non-sponsor link removed
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Routing RCA down the opposite side of the power cable is a good idea.
I would still run 6 channels, not just 4. I would buy an additional 2 channel cable.
That cable should work, the length is good. I don't see an activation wire in the molding. If there isn't one, be sure sure to get a spool of cheap automotive wire, 18-22 gauge is fine, and run it with the RCAs from the HU to the back. This will act as a simple on/off signal from the HU's "remote control" output on the harness.
I would still run 6 channels, not just 4. I would buy an additional 2 channel cable.
That cable should work, the length is good. I don't see an activation wire in the molding. If there isn't one, be sure sure to get a spool of cheap automotive wire, 18-22 gauge is fine, and run it with the RCAs from the HU to the back. This will act as a simple on/off signal from the HU's "remote control" output on the harness.
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I just hope these cables aren't too thick. The longest they have is 19 ft. Will that be plenty to go from the HU, down the side of the car and to the amp? I don't want it like my stock HU where I can't even pull it out and only have a couple inches to screeze my hand behind it to undo the harness/wires.
There is already a remote (blue) wire that runs with my power cable for the amp. It is spliced just behind my HU so I will just make sure to cut that wire and hook my HU to that as the amp already is spliced into it. I need to get me a good wire kit and crimps as well.
EDIT: What guage does stock wiring use? I don't know if having a different thickness is a good idea or not.
There is already a remote (blue) wire that runs with my power cable for the amp. It is spliced just behind my HU so I will just make sure to cut that wire and hook my HU to that as the amp already is spliced into it. I need to get me a good wire kit and crimps as well.
EDIT: What guage does stock wiring use? I don't know if having a different thickness is a good idea or not.
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The floorboard channel/crevice is pretty deep. I fit a 4 gauge power and 3 RCA cables in mine. If the RCA cables are a little short, it's nothing to add a little unshielded extension in the hatch area, 19.5' should be about right, though.
The stock speaker wiring is pretty thin, less than 18 gauge, I think, maybe 22. You can never go wrong using thicker wire, but a GOOD 16 gauge speaker wire should adequate for your increased wattage. Knukonceptz also has some nice, pliable, above rated gauge speaker wire. Not pushing their stuff, but it it is good quality at a reasonable price, IMHO. Monoprice is good for bulk wire and home theater stuff. They are a favorite vendor on home audio forums.
The stock speaker wiring is pretty thin, less than 18 gauge, I think, maybe 22. You can never go wrong using thicker wire, but a GOOD 16 gauge speaker wire should adequate for your increased wattage. Knukonceptz also has some nice, pliable, above rated gauge speaker wire. Not pushing their stuff, but it it is good quality at a reasonable price, IMHO. Monoprice is good for bulk wire and home theater stuff. They are a favorite vendor on home audio forums.
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Yeah, I wan't sure if their premium was shielded or not. Plus, I like the fact that knukonceptz has a 4 in 1 set. Saves me from having to get some zip ties or something. So how exactly did you route your RCAs? Did you route them down the center console any or did you start routing it to the sides and then down the door sill area?
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Ok, that's what I was figuring but wasn't completely sure. I'll try to take those panels out this weekend and have a look and keep them off until I get my stuff installed. Well, we sure did increase our post count with this thread, lol.
EDIT: Another dumb question. Where is a good place to get some extra wire to extend my IGN, Remote, Ground, and whatever else type of wire? Also what place sells some good wire crimps? I don't want cheap ones that will crack or not hold the wire. I hate the twist cap ones.
EDIT: Another dumb question. Where is a good place to get some extra wire to extend my IGN, Remote, Ground, and whatever else type of wire? Also what place sells some good wire crimps? I don't want cheap ones that will crack or not hold the wire. I hate the twist cap ones.
Last edited by Darth Cypher; Mar 29, 2011 at 04:01 PM.
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Should I get one of those Metra adapeter harness that plug into the stock harness and just use the wires from that adapter to hook up my ignition, ground and remote wires? That way I don't cut into the car's harness. Or is there a flaw in that thinking?
EDIT: Finally found the thread I was searching for stating that this will work. I knew I found the thread sometime in the past. I'm going to go ahead and get the harness so I don't have to cut up the stock wiring like I had to in my old '89 Camaro.
EDIT: Finally found the thread I was searching for stating that this will work. I knew I found the thread sometime in the past. I'm going to go ahead and get the harness so I don't have to cut up the stock wiring like I had to in my old '89 Camaro.
Last edited by Darth Cypher; Mar 30, 2011 at 05:51 PM.
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ignition, ground, and remote... you can use of those splice type crimp connectors so you won't have to cut anything. Any auto store will have them, you crush them with a pliers or whatever, and they snap on.
I forgot you bought the special HUMOUNT, and maybe didn't include a pig tail half... so yeah, probably need that metra bought separately. ...you could get by without it, just consider which pins you still need, like power antenna, etc. (camaros don't need?) Forgot that you don't need any of the speaker outputs anymore. Just go through the FAQ pin out carefully and consider which ones you still need. The metra adapter would make a neater install.
I forgot you bought the special HUMOUNT, and maybe didn't include a pig tail half... so yeah, probably need that metra bought separately. ...you could get by without it, just consider which pins you still need, like power antenna, etc. (camaros don't need?) Forgot that you don't need any of the speaker outputs anymore. Just go through the FAQ pin out carefully and consider which ones you still need. The metra adapter would make a neater install.
Last edited by Capricio; Mar 30, 2011 at 06:00 PM.
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Everything is in except for the HUMount. I got the cable routed, harness put together and slaved in the HU. Everything works fine. One thing that is confusing me is that on the HU side of the harness, it has an "illumination" wire. On the Metra adapter side there are two wires, an "illumination" and a "dimmer" wire. What wires do I hook up? I guess I could try to see what wire works and then put the crimp/connector on it.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You'll have an orange and an orange with white wire for illumination in the harness adapter. They are for lights on signal and dash dimmer so they correspond to the brown and gray wires in the factory harness. However, most aftermarket head units don't use both wires. In fact, most only use the lights on trigger wire and then handle dimming internally when the lights are on rather than trying to match the dimming of the rest of the dash.
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Thanks. I was thinking of connecting the illumination wires together and ignore the dimmer wire. If the lights stay the same brightness when my headlights go on, no biggie. Man, I can't wait for the humount to get here. 
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Got the HUMount in FINALLY. I already connected the Metra harness to the HU harness. But for in the future when I decide to install the PAC SWI-JACK, I am thinking about using the quick disconnect crimps since I don't want to keep hacking at the harness. I'm sure it's fine to use them for speaker wires or remote/dimmer wires. I wouldn't use it for any power wire (unless that is fine too) but would they be ok with a ground wire? I'm thinking of using these QD connectors just for the PAC and HUMount LED wiring.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Sure, quick disconnects will work. Most of the problems with them aren't the disconnect but the crimping. The best way is to buy uninsulated connectors and a good crimping tool (not the cheap ones they throw in with connector assortment packages) so that you get the most solid crimp possible and then use heat shrink tubing for the insulation.
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Ok, I must have overlooked/missed it. I don't go by color too much anyhow. I'd rather verify by reading what guage it says it goes to. Never paid too much attention to the color. Thanks again for the help.