Three Wire Truck Alternator
I also want to confirm that you only need the resistor or some small load on that single brown wire if you have a 98 wiring harness as that wire hooks up to +12V and on the 99+ the brown wire hooks up to the PCM, correct?
I am asking because last week I started my car to head home from work and the gauge cluster voltmeter was jumping back and forth. The lights were dimming on the way home and power was fading in and out. I assumed it was the alternator and ordered a KG3 from an online junkyard. Well it finally came in last night and I installed it and it wasn't working. I was reading 11.8V at the battery while idling/revving. I then checked the connection after searching through thread after thread about wiring configurations and I believe the problem the entire time was just that single brown wire losing contact with the alternator as the pigtail fell off the wire as I was trying to determine if it was faulty. I made a quick fix, something I wouldn't drive around with and it worked but the voltmeter was still a little jumpy. I don't think my "quick fix" is working 100% but I just want to make sure when I go home tonight to permanently fix it, that all I need to fix is that one wire and not add a resistor or additional wiring. TIA
Upgraded all the wires to 4 gauge as well.... Besides that it was all stock drop in replacement.


