Amp, sub and wire selection help.
Amp, sub and wire selection help. Well between three busted speakers, a broke cd player and no backlights on my monsoon system Ive decided to piece together a system. Ive put in coaxial speakers and cheap subs but never installed a "nice" system.
So far Ive decided to go with an Alpine X303 headunit. I had one in my old camaro and loved it. I have a busted Ipod I can keep in my dash so it looks clean, I hate having a cord coming out of the front of a headunit. They are cheap now and I dont want to go with the newer better version.
Im gonna go with Kee Audios Premium Speakers. Ive tried pricing his package seperately at different vendors and I would like to say his prices are GREAT.
I cant decide on a sub. I listen to mainly classic rock and classic country but am now getting into rap and hip hop. Ive heard good things about RE Audios SEX 10". I think a good ten will be plenty for me. If not I will do two tens. I have no idea on a box. Id like to do a stealth box, but dont have to due to not using my trunk much.
I know nothing about amps. All my buddies say they are the same and to just buy one from a pawn shop. For some reason I dont think that is the case.
So school me.
Also, Im guessing the stock wiring isnt gonna work with what I have planned as far as the speakers go???
So far Ive decided to go with an Alpine X303 headunit. I had one in my old camaro and loved it. I have a busted Ipod I can keep in my dash so it looks clean, I hate having a cord coming out of the front of a headunit. They are cheap now and I dont want to go with the newer better version.
Im gonna go with Kee Audios Premium Speakers. Ive tried pricing his package seperately at different vendors and I would like to say his prices are GREAT.
I cant decide on a sub. I listen to mainly classic rock and classic country but am now getting into rap and hip hop. Ive heard good things about RE Audios SEX 10". I think a good ten will be plenty for me. If not I will do two tens. I have no idea on a box. Id like to do a stealth box, but dont have to due to not using my trunk much.
I know nothing about amps. All my buddies say they are the same and to just buy one from a pawn shop. For some reason I dont think that is the case.
So school me.Also, Im guessing the stock wiring isnt gonna work with what I have planned as far as the speakers go???
LOL!!! Buy one from the pawn shop. That is not great advice and no they are not even close to all the same.
A couple of questions, do you plan on powering the speakers off the amp as well or using the amp for the sub only? You can do it either way and both work but there is significant difference in installation.
The RE Audio sub is quite good. I also have some very good Massive Audio subs that I can do for around the same price. These have a fiberglass V cone and more excursion to move more air. Better performance then the RE overall. I have been quite impressed with these to say the least and I owned the RE Audio SE10's.
To power the sub I have a great little amp that I have been using for a few months now in my DD from Audiopipe. I generally do not like Audiopipe but these little amps are killer! Plus you cannot beat the price. How about a real 1000watt RMS amp for $139.99.
Shoot me an email and I can put together a complete system for you. keeaudio@bellsouth.net
A couple of questions, do you plan on powering the speakers off the amp as well or using the amp for the sub only? You can do it either way and both work but there is significant difference in installation.
The RE Audio sub is quite good. I also have some very good Massive Audio subs that I can do for around the same price. These have a fiberglass V cone and more excursion to move more air. Better performance then the RE overall. I have been quite impressed with these to say the least and I owned the RE Audio SE10's.
To power the sub I have a great little amp that I have been using for a few months now in my DD from Audiopipe. I generally do not like Audiopipe but these little amps are killer! Plus you cannot beat the price. How about a real 1000watt RMS amp for $139.99.
Shoot me an email and I can put together a complete system for you. keeaudio@bellsouth.net
Thanks man. Im about a month away from pulling the trigger on this due to just completing alot of other work on the car. I am not dead set on the RE sub. One of my friends had a twelve that was unbelievable so I thought their ten would do great, but if you have something that will outperform it for close to the same price Ill happily go with that.
On the amps, I dont know if I want to run two amps, one for the speakers and one for the sub, or if I want to run one big amp. What do you suggest? That audiopipe sounds like a really good deal though.
I am thinking about building my own box now. I am very handy with tools and think I can build a decent one with the help of my friend who has built some.
On the amps, I dont know if I want to run two amps, one for the speakers and one for the sub, or if I want to run one big amp. What do you suggest? That audiopipe sounds like a really good deal though.
I am thinking about building my own box now. I am very handy with tools and think I can build a decent one with the help of my friend who has built some.
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I put an RE SEX 12 2+2 in a behind the seat ported enclosure I bought on fleabay so I can still use my T-top holders. The RE has a deep chassis, so check before you try it in a stealth enclosure. I'm driving it with a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D at 4 Ohms. One of these is all that is needed to really shake the car.
As far as cabling, I like Knukonceptz but Stinger is also good for amp install kits. Use at least 16 AWG runs to all the speakers and use shielded RCA cables from the HU to your amps. Add up the amperage ratings of all the fuses in all your ampliers and get a main power cable big enough to handle it.
Ian can steer you toward amps as well as anyone. Just try get something big enough to match the RMS rating of the speakers you already bought if you want to get the most out of them. I'm a big class D full-range amp advocate.
When it comes to driving your mid-bass sails, figure out in advance how you plan to manage your HPF and LPF between your HU and your amp dials. You want to transition/separate freqs between your sub-bass to your mid-bass and your door/hatch channels. sub-bass from subsonic to 100HZ, midbass 80-250Hz, doors/hatch 250Hz and higher. Higher freqs through the mid-bass will draw the soundstage backward.
You have some nice speakers as a starting point so don't skimp on the rest!
As far as cabling, I like Knukonceptz but Stinger is also good for amp install kits. Use at least 16 AWG runs to all the speakers and use shielded RCA cables from the HU to your amps. Add up the amperage ratings of all the fuses in all your ampliers and get a main power cable big enough to handle it.
Ian can steer you toward amps as well as anyone. Just try get something big enough to match the RMS rating of the speakers you already bought if you want to get the most out of them. I'm a big class D full-range amp advocate.
When it comes to driving your mid-bass sails, figure out in advance how you plan to manage your HPF and LPF between your HU and your amp dials. You want to transition/separate freqs between your sub-bass to your mid-bass and your door/hatch channels. sub-bass from subsonic to 100HZ, midbass 80-250Hz, doors/hatch 250Hz and higher. Higher freqs through the mid-bass will draw the soundstage backward.
You have some nice speakers as a starting point so don't skimp on the rest!
Thanks man your thread is really useful. How necessary is it to sound deaden the entire car? I thought about doing the doors and behind the sail speakers but I really dont want to rip out the carpet and seats.
