Did a Rattle Trap install video..
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
Did a Rattle Trap install video.. Kinda.. More/less me installing one piece, showing a bit of the work and me rambling about random ****.
Getting used to the GoPro and I guess it needs a lot of light. The garage light sucks and I was using the drop light.
This **** takes a lot of time to install. I figured it take about 15 min a sq/ft to install.
Opinions?? Ok video, IMO. Nothing stellar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kUCn...ature=youtu.be
Getting used to the GoPro and I guess it needs a lot of light. The garage light sucks and I was using the drop light.
This **** takes a lot of time to install. I figured it take about 15 min a sq/ft to install.
Opinions?? Ok video, IMO. Nothing stellar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kUCn...ature=youtu.be
I'd go underneath the car also in that rear section and apply some CAE Quiet Kote (18oz spray can) . I used some on my sons car first and found it works surprisingly good at cutting down on sound transfer into the interior of the car.
I've got 2 cans($12 a can) on order now to use on my Camaro.
I've got 2 cans($12 a can) on order now to use on my Camaro.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Feb 5, 2012 at 10:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^ was looking at the Great Stuff spray foam and I think it's closed cell. Was just gonna fill the rear two wells in with it and cut it flush. I don't have anything to go in there, but I would have to find a way for the cabin vent to breathe.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^ Shipping weight is 23lbs for a 50 sq/ft roll. So maybe 40lbs for the whole car..
Honestly guys; How was the video? I'm not one to put my face on the net, and I'm kinda shy. I know I gotta learn the camera better and light it better.. I'll do more random videos and see how they go.
Honestly guys; How was the video? I'm not one to put my face on the net, and I'm kinda shy. I know I gotta learn the camera better and light it better.. I'll do more random videos and see how they go.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
Filled the sides in with foam.. Well, a fraction of the way to allow for expansion. Didn't put much in the driver's side because I'm trying to leave the cabin vent open. Even filled in the top where the quarter meets the trunk area. It's a "bullet" area next to the deck lid that's just an open void. No point to leave it open.
I looked at a cross section of the foam under a magnifying glass and it 'appears' to be closed cell so this SHOULD work as sound absorbent material. ........... And I don't have a use for those wells in the back.
pass side
I looked at a cross section of the foam under a magnifying glass and it 'appears' to be closed cell so this SHOULD work as sound absorbent material. ........... And I don't have a use for those wells in the back.
pass side
Last edited by bayer-z28; Feb 12, 2012 at 08:04 AM.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^ Thanks. I'll tray and grab another one when i do the interior floor... With better lighting.
I just didn't want the video to be boring.
Annnnnnnnd I'm out... Gotta order another roll. 50 sq ft just for the trunk! It's so nice having a full roll instead of messing with these little **** strips. Hoping the floor of the cabin goes quicker. The back took a WHILE. ~9 hrs.
I just didn't want the video to be boring.
Annnnnnnnd I'm out... Gotta order another roll. 50 sq ft just for the trunk! It's so nice having a full roll instead of messing with these little **** strips. Hoping the floor of the cabin goes quicker. The back took a WHILE. ~9 hrs.
NICE WORK! keep us updated. i want to do this to my ws6 also. i will help keep the weight about the same by taking off the carpet backing insulation and cutting the areas of carpet that are hidden behind the plastic panels maybe?
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Eastern MA
Why would you remove the carpet backer? Its there for sound and temperature insulation. It would be a waste of time and effort to add this stuff then. This dampener performs a slightly different function than the carpet backer. They work together to shield out noise and vibration. If you remove one to install the other, you aren't going to really see the benefit of your time/effort/money. Also, the areas behind the plastic can benefit from this insulation as well (often its more necessary there since the vibration can transmit to the plastic and sound worse). Which plastic are you referring to (since pretty much what isn't covered in carpet is covered in plastic or is glass)?
Last edited by VIP1; Feb 15, 2012 at 10:31 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^ True.. But I stripped this car back in 06 on a weight reduction binge. Got it to 3400lbs with the box in the back, amps, 1/2 tank and HEAVY chrome wheels and full cloth interior. Got tired of the noise so I'm fixing it now.
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Eastern MA
bayer-z28, you're putting sound deadening back in. That makes sense.
badfbodyz is talking about removing the stock carpet backer sound insulation and using rattle trap instead. That doesn't make sense.
badfbodyz is talking about removing the stock carpet backer sound insulation and using rattle trap instead. That doesn't make sense.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^ Yeah I caught that, but I prolly worded my response wrong.
Doing a vibration dampener like Rattle trap, Dynamat or whatever else only serves to eliminate vibration.. Although it may have some sound deadening qualities, it is not meat to absorb road noise. Logical progression is do do a vibration dampener first, THEN do a sound absorbent material such as SSA Luxury Liner or some kind of foam sound barrier. Not eliminating the stock sound barriers and installing a vibration dampener.
Doing a vibration dampener like Rattle trap, Dynamat or whatever else only serves to eliminate vibration.. Although it may have some sound deadening qualities, it is not meat to absorb road noise. Logical progression is do do a vibration dampener first, THEN do a sound absorbent material such as SSA Luxury Liner or some kind of foam sound barrier. Not eliminating the stock sound barriers and installing a vibration dampener.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^ Yeah, I welded some pieces onto it to get it to bolt back on, but they're not quite wide enough. STILL have yet to stick that back on.. Have regulator fabing to do yet.