Earnhardt

iTrader: (1)

Not exactly new to this, did most of this to my last Firebird but that didn't have the Monsoon system. Now have an '02 WS6. Gathered plenty of info from the stickies, but want to make sure everything is right. Here are the components I will be installing...

Head unit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB (have)
-Dash kit: Metra 99-4000 ($12.99)
-Wiring harness: Metra 70-1858 ($9.99)
-Antenna Adapter: Metra 40-GM10 ($14.99)

Amp: Viper D1200.1 (have)
-Amp kit: Knu Konceptz Complete 4AWG kit ($52.49, have partial)

Subs: (2) 12" Kicker L5 (have)

Box: Subthump T-top box (have)

Now onto a couple of questions...

In my last Firebird, I put the amp above the gas tank. This time, I want to put it under the box where the T-tops used to sit. However, I am unsure if this is advisable. Once the settings are set, there really is no reason to have access to the amp for everyday use. But I'm not sure if this area will cause the amp to overheat, since there is probably little airflow down there. Also, I'm not sure how far down the T-tops sit with the T-top box, but I imagine they wouldn't go down far enough to hit the amp.

Next, front speakers. I have the Monsoon system, so I wouldn't mind keeping the Monsoon amp if it is decent enough to power a new set of front components. I know Kee Audio has a speaker package, but I really only want to upgrade the front set since I have enough bass from the subs to not care about the sail panel speakers, and the hatch speakers are just pointless. I found the CDT CL-61A.2-25 PRO component set, I'm just not sure if the Monsoon amp has enough to make these sound decent. Hell, if you guys want to convince me I should get new sail panel speakers too, I'm willing to listen.

Lastly, my T-top box doesn't seem to fit my new car as well as it did my old. My old car was a '96 Firebird, and my new car is an '02 WS6. The box seems to get caught up on the trunk latch on my new car, is this for some reason bigger on the newer models? I've shot off an e-mail to Subthump, but might as well check here too. I didn't spend much time trying to get it to fit as I was in a hurry. But if anyone can shed any light on this that would be great.

Thanks for any help.

V8ImpSS

You want the amp to be in a well ventillated area, besides wanting it to be accessible for tuning.

Rear speakers are a waist, they're there solely for fill. If you want a really nice loud front stage I'd get a cheap 4 channel amp and bridge it, like an Alpine MRP-F300 can be had for like $125 and give youleanty of power just for the fronts. Those CDT's wouldn't work because no amp can run bridged at 2 ohms. I like the JL C2's, C3's, Hertz Energy, Hertz High Energy in that order of price

Earnhardt

iTrader: (1)

I don't think the amp will have a problem below the box, I guess we'll see. This is what I plan on doing, and can always relocate it if I run into problems. Got a response back from Steve at Subthump (very quick response too) and it turns out I need to cut about and inch more off the latch area of my box because of a difference between the two years. Plan on doing that this weekend.

As far as the front components go, I want to keep the stock Monsoon amp if possible. That is why I was looking at the 2ohm set, because I know the stock speakers are 2ohm. Looking to get a second opinion on this, as I don't want to run another aftermarket amp for the front speakers only if I don't have to.

critical.in.ga

If it all possible PLEASE do away with the factory wiring harness, the metra stuff to get it to work with your factory amp will make your equipment sound like absolute garbage. I went with it to keep my factory bose system when I installed my kenwood (top of the line model) head unit and i shoulda just kept the factory head unit, yes its that bad. take the money you would spend on all the adapters/wiring harness and get urself a nice 4 channel amp, i promise you will be much happier with the end result.

PGUFF

iTrader: (12)

I have an amp under my rear well box, and it has never overheated.

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

Monsoon amp won't give your components the power it needs.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I assume you just don't know the difference between a Bose and a Monsoon system. In a Bose system, there is an adapter required because of the special design of the head unit that produces low-level, high-impedance output to speakers that have integrated individual amps. For a Monsoon system, the harness adapter is just a connector and cross connect wires to simplify installation. There is absolutely no effect on sound quality especially since the Monsoon head unit is best at producing distortion so almost anything is an upgrade.

Earnhardt

iTrader: (1)

So now let me ask this, are there any components that are worth getting with the stock Monsoon amp?

V8ImpSS

IMO you'd be better off with some cheap Alpine type s's and a used Alpine MRP-F30 or similar

Capricio

I ran a pair CDT CL-61CV on the Monsoon amp for quite a while and they were fine. I didn't use the CDT crossovers to improve power efficiency. Later I got an aftermarket amp and inserted the CDT crossovers for better freq separation/cutoff.

pentavolvo

put a 1200wrms amp under ttop box in my buddys SS and it has never overheater or gave issues