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Old 04-14-2012, 06:34 AM
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Alright thanks a lot!
Old 04-14-2012, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by V8ImpSS
Your going to want a sealed box for sure no doubt. The type r suggestion won't work because they only sound great in ported when they can really move. Ive heard the IDQ and it's a nice sub. Another guy made a post about the same thing, he ended up doing a pair of JL 10w3's IIRC which was a great choice. If youve got more budget, or can live with a single sub. I'd do a JL 10w6 or even an 8w7 which would be kick ***. The w7 is just about the tightest woofer around. The Hertz ML2500 is a fantastic, yet pricey, option as well. if you want to go super budget the JL W0v3 is real hard to beat for the price.

I really like an 8" woofer though, and it'd be perfect for the double bass
I have the JL 8w7 with the JL digital amp running it. The enclosed box fits nicely just behind the back seat. Very tight bass and will give you all the punch you should need.
Old 04-23-2012, 02:44 PM
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Alright I got my box and my 2 10" w7s today. What amp should i run with them. I saw earlier in the post about the mrx-m1100 amp would that be good?
Old 04-23-2012, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Coza427
Alright I got my box and my 2 10" w7s today. What amp should i run with them. I saw earlier in the post about the mrx-m1100 amp would that be good?
Yea 2 of them would be awesome. Anything putting around 750-1250 watts rms @3 ohms would be perfect. I'm running mine at about 1000 even. Running a mono on a pair of w7's is tough because they show either a 1.5 or 6 ohm load. Running at 6 ohms won't get the most power out of most amps unless theyve been modified, and finding an amp that will be 1 ohm stable and still have a long life after being beat on isn't going to be cheap. So any mono that make more power at 2 than 4 will be a good candidate if it makes around 1000-1500 @ 2 ohms.
Old 04-23-2012, 04:25 PM
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rockford fosgate t1000-1bdCP would be another good fit. its rated at 1000rms, but usually underrated and does around 1300rms.

you would need to look into an alternator upgrade at that power though. right now im only running 500rms and get voltage drops at big bass parts.
Old 04-23-2012, 10:26 PM
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Ok. Would it blow the sub though if its over loaded? It says the sub is rated at 750w rms and if you add like the 1300w rms amp to it would it blow up?
Old 04-23-2012, 10:52 PM
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Not necessarily, but it makes them easier to blow. Speakers blow because of too much distortion. Distortion is caused when you push any 1 piece of your system over its limit. So a 1300 watt amp at its limit would be putting out more distortion than a 2000 watt amp being pushed to the exact same "loudness". That said, w7's are beastly and rarely get blown unless your really pushin your luck. The cone and surround usually seperate from each other before any damage is done to the motor or the coil.

Honestly a pair of the MRX-m110s would be the way I would go on my 10w7s, short of a $2k Audison 1.2k, that is if I didn't get my Audison's donated most power for the money hands down. I recently did a 12w7 on an Alpine MRP-M2000 (1750w rms @3 ohms) and it absolutely rocked.

I suppose something like a JL HD1200 would be a nice option too and would work on the pair, but it's the same money as the pair of Alpines with much less power. All amps are slightly underrated because that way the manufacture ensures you get what you paid for. At least on a quality amp. But I have expirence with Rockford amps rattling like crazy, great sounding amps but cheaply housed.
Old 04-23-2012, 11:01 PM
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i have a jl 10w6 pushed by an alpine pdx 1.600 and hits really tight and sounds clean. all installed in my hatch area so space wouldn't be a problem.
Old 04-24-2012, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Coza427
Ok. Would it blow the sub though if its over loaded? It says the sub is rated at 750w rms and if you add like the 1300w rms amp to it would it blow up?
think about this. yes, the w7 is rated for 750, BUT thats per sub. if you have 2 you can run up to 1500rms.

you also need to watch what ohm load you look at for the power rating. the w3 is a 3ohm sub, so you can run 2 of them at 6 or 1.5ohm. you would want to run 1.5ohm.
most amps wont show a 1.5ohm rating, they will show 4, 2, and 1ohm. most good amps you can take whatever the rating is at 1 and 2 ohm, take the power difference between the 2 and divide it in half, then add it to the 2ohm rating to figure out the 1.5ohm load.
so if the amp you're looking at says its 1000rms@2ohm, and 1500rms@1ohm you would take the 500rms difference, cut it in half to 250, and add it to the 1000 for a 1250rms@2ohm rating.
some amps are rated to do the same power at 2-4ohm, or 1.5-4ohm, etc.
Old 04-24-2012, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ghettocowboy248
think about this. yes, the w7 is rated for 750, BUT thats per sub. if you have 2 you CAN run up to 1500rms.
you can easily run more than 1500 watts total, I would put a cap on it at 3000w. Doubling the Rms rating of a driver gives you an idea of what the most power you should put to it, headroom is what it's called when you have more power than the drivers can use, but this will still lead to more output because of the decrease in distortion being pushed to the sub by an amp that isn't working at its full load. People think power kills speakers when that couldn't be farther from the truth. Power is your friend, people kill speakers by turning up volume controls, bass boost, and amp gains too high. Than again, it's hard to blow a w7, you can plug them into a 120v wall jack and it will still hit if you hook it back up, been there done that



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