Subwoofer recommendations for my stealth box?
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OP the 10w6 does have a much bigger magnet than the w3 so mounting depth is larger. But there's several guys in the thread who said they are running it in their stealth box. While 300w isn't optimal, if everything is carefully tuned it will not be an issue and it will still hit. 300w is more in the wheelhouse of the 10w3 tho, and unless you plan on an amp upgrade in the future I don't know that you have much to gain in going with the w6. That said, the w7, w6, and Hertz Mille subs are tied as my favorite subs. Play around on JL's website theres a lot of good info.
Last edited by V8ImpSS; May 2, 2012 at 10:38 AM.
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On The Tree
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From: Orlando, FL
Thanks for the info. It sounds like the 10W3 is probably right for me. I don't see myself changing the amp anytime soon since I just bought it last summer. If anything I'd only go with a slightly larger JL 5 channel amp.
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Alpine actually just came out with a new PDX 5 channel, the PDX-v9. It has the same power as the JL HD900/5 but costs $300 less retail. Plus the alpine has the ability to run components active, meaning that there would be no passive crossover network in the mix. This lets the same speakers be louder, more precise, and clearer. The passive crossover doesn't allow the amp to have any control over the speaker, as well as robs a bunch of power just by simply having the amplified signal travel through the crossover. The JL HD and Alpine PDX stuff are the same in SQ and power for the most part. I already sold out of those alpine 5 channels because they are so awesome for the price and features. I only had them in stock for 2 weeks and sold all 20 I had.
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On The Tree
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From: Orlando, FL
That looks like a cool amp.
What is it doing to make the components active, just running in 3 channel bandpass mode? The JL amp also does bandpass, I think, but I'm not using it because I have sail panel midwoofers.
The weak link in my setup right now is definitely my front components. They are Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s and they sorely lack in the midbass department, especially compared to my CDT HD-6CF sail panel speakers.
What is it doing to make the components active, just running in 3 channel bandpass mode? The JL amp also does bandpass, I think, but I'm not using it because I have sail panel midwoofers.
The weak link in my setup right now is definitely my front components. They are Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s and they sorely lack in the midbass department, especially compared to my CDT HD-6CF sail panel speakers.
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That looks like a cool amp.
What is it doing to make the components active, just running in 3 channel bandpass mode? The JL amp also does bandpass, I think, but I'm not using it because I have sail panel midwoofers.
The weak link in my setup right now is definitely my front components. They are Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s and they sorely lack in the midbass department, especially compared to my CDT HD-6CF sail panel speakers.
What is it doing to make the components active, just running in 3 channel bandpass mode? The JL amp also does bandpass, I think, but I'm not using it because I have sail panel midwoofers.
The weak link in my setup right now is definitely my front components. They are Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s and they sorely lack in the midbass department, especially compared to my CDT HD-6CF sail panel speakers.
then your CDT will be the weak link
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TECH Apprentice
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That looks like a cool amp.
What is it doing to make the components active, just running in 3 channel bandpass mode? The JL amp also does bandpass, I think, but I'm not using it because I have sail panel midwoofers.
The weak link in my setup right now is definitely my front components. They are Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s and they sorely lack in the midbass department, especially compared to my CDT HD-6CF sail panel speakers.
What is it doing to make the components active, just running in 3 channel bandpass mode? The JL amp also does bandpass, I think, but I'm not using it because I have sail panel midwoofers.
The weak link in my setup right now is definitely my front components. They are Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s and they sorely lack in the midbass department, especially compared to my CDT HD-6CF sail panel speakers.
and yes it can do a bandpass filter on a pair of the channels which is required for the midbass driver in an active 2 way + sub system. and no, there are no JL amps that can do a bandpass filter currently, this alpin is the latest resonable amp with those features to come out in a while.
@DOUBLEDMODS will an 8w7 fit in your stealthbox?
thats a tough one to find a sub for that small of a box that will take advantage of all that power on the sub channel. I always do my own birth cirtificate with high end amps and I never saw a 5.1k that made less than 1300w RMS @14.4 volts, and I saw as high as 1500 once or twice but they're usually in the high 1300 range.
So that said, I'd do a 10w6 as the best sub for that stealth box. but a 10w6 on that much power might not be the best idea plus its a waste of the power but it would work if tuned correctly (super low gain). If it were me, which I run a 10w7 on each 5.1k, I'd not go for the stealthbox becasue your either going to want to go with a single 10w7 like me or maybe a pair of 10w3's or a pair of Hertz Mille ML2500 subs would be sweet too. the Hertz High Energy subs HX250 are also nice. all of those are great SQ options as I assume your going for SQ with running that amp. What components are you running?
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On The Tree
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From: Orlando, FL
it is pretty sweet, I just put one in my friend's BMW Z3 with JL C3-525's and a 10w3 and was an awesome system.
and yes it can do a bandpass filter on a pair of the channels which is required for the midbass driver in an active 2 way + sub system. and no, there are no JL amps that can do a bandpass filter currently, this alpin is the latest resonable amp with those features to come out in a while.
and yes it can do a bandpass filter on a pair of the channels which is required for the midbass driver in an active 2 way + sub system. and no, there are no JL amps that can do a bandpass filter currently, this alpin is the latest resonable amp with those features to come out in a while.
The JL XD700/5 most definitely does have Bandpass. Notice that it has the exact same set of controls for the crossovers (x1/x10 switch on the tweeters, BP [Bandpass] switch on the mids). It does, however, lack a subsonic filter.
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I'm not doubting the rest of your advice, but that definitely isn't correct.
The JL XD700/5 most definitely does have Bandpass. Notice that it has the exact same set of controls for the crossovers (x1/x10 switch on the tweeters, BP [Bandpass] switch on the mids). It does, however, lack a subsonic
The JL XD700/5 most definitely does have Bandpass. Notice that it has the exact same set of controls for the crossovers (x1/x10 switch on the tweeters, BP [Bandpass] switch on the mids). It does, however, lack a subsonic
Damn that would really be a perfect little sub for these cars, especially for somone who wants to be different than all the guys with the 10w3/6s, maybe the box would still fit with a second baffle
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On The Tree
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From: Orlando, FL
No problem. Would running my front components active be worth the loss of the mid-bass in the sail panels? I'd have to run another amp to get them back.
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I'm assuming that right now your running your front components and some midbass drivers in the factory sub spot. Having that extra midbass closer to your ears is most likely detracting from your front stage. audiophiles usually run an active front stage and sub, no rears or other extra speakers. Running your components active would get you a lot of improvement because your eliminating the low grade passive crossover. Unless you spend big bucks on a component set the crossover is always the easiest limiting factor to bypass.
It will especially be better once you add a sub. Because then you won't need your extra "midbass" drivers to get some decent low frequency response.
If it were me, and I was happy with that XD amp, I'd go for a 10w3 and some Hertz Energy components up front and run them active. hertz is a great company for SQ and they sell their product al la carte so you don't have to waste money on a crossover you won't use. If you might upgrade the amp down the road I'd do the 10w6 and use the components you've got now and upgrade them later with the amp so you will have components that will take advantage of the amp upgrade.
It will especially be better once you add a sub. Because then you won't need your extra "midbass" drivers to get some decent low frequency response.
If it were me, and I was happy with that XD amp, I'd go for a 10w3 and some Hertz Energy components up front and run them active. hertz is a great company for SQ and they sell their product al la carte so you don't have to waste money on a crossover you won't use. If you might upgrade the amp down the road I'd do the 10w6 and use the components you've got now and upgrade them later with the amp so you will have components that will take advantage of the amp upgrade.
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On The Tree
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From: Orlando, FL
Well I do have a sub right now, its a 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect. I was just looking for recommendations to replace it.
In order to change to active, I'd need to re-run my speaker wires up to the front so that I could have two sets going to the front. Right now I have my crossovers in my kick panels, so I'd need to extend the speaker wires.
If I switched to active, I'm thinking I'd keep the Infinity tweet (for now) and put the CDT mid-bass driver in place of the Kappa Perfect mid-bass driver. Other upgraded stuff (like Hertz or Hybrid Audio or whatever) will have to wait for body work to be done, because thats costing a fortune.
I do notice the soundstage being pulled rearward with my current setup though.
In order to change to active, I'd need to re-run my speaker wires up to the front so that I could have two sets going to the front. Right now I have my crossovers in my kick panels, so I'd need to extend the speaker wires.
If I switched to active, I'm thinking I'd keep the Infinity tweet (for now) and put the CDT mid-bass driver in place of the Kappa Perfect mid-bass driver. Other upgraded stuff (like Hertz or Hybrid Audio or whatever) will have to wait for body work to be done, because thats costing a fortune.
I do notice the soundstage being pulled rearward with my current setup though.