What amp should I choose
10-24-2012, 07:53 PM
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What amp should I choose First i want to thank all the people that helped me install my double din, worked out great and I took plenty of pics so I will hopefully be adding a write up with more details and to pass the knowledge along. Now I would love to upgrade my amp to aftermarket one but there is a huge amount of info and I would love some guidance. I have some questions if anyone can help.
What i have now:
Stereo - Pioneer x940bt double din
Amp - stock monsoon
Speakers - kee audio level 1
1.) CDT CL-61.2 6.5" Component Speaker System (doors)
2.) Bazooka 6.5" DVC Subwoofers (sailpanels)
3.) CDT CL-4SL coaxials (hatch)
1.How many watts should I go for, I'm afraid to burn out my speakers? 700, 800?1000? or is it a thing where i should be looking at the max watt per channel like 75 or 100
2.Do I want a 4 channel amp or higher like a 5 channel, do u have any amp suggestions? my budget for the amp is 150-250
3. Mono amp or no? class d or another class
4.Can I use the stock wiring or should I rewire?
5.Do I need to upgrade my battery or alternator?
6.If using stock wiring going to the monsoon amp, Is it as simple as running RCA from the HU to the new amp and then finding the correct wires off the stock harness and placing them in the new amp?
7. Is it better to add subs to the back of the car and another set of mids in the sail panels. or how the sound stage that our cars have already good
I have read dozens of articles and have gained a fair share of confidence and understanding but still cautious. I know I will get a lot of read the sticky or use the search but we are here to help the ignorant like myself. And sometimes conversation on one's problem teaches better than piecing it together from others problems. Any help will be greatly appreciated
What i have now:
Stereo - Pioneer x940bt double din
Amp - stock monsoon
Speakers - kee audio level 1
1.) CDT CL-61.2 6.5" Component Speaker System (doors)
2.) Bazooka 6.5" DVC Subwoofers (sailpanels)
3.) CDT CL-4SL coaxials (hatch)
1.How many watts should I go for, I'm afraid to burn out my speakers? 700, 800?1000? or is it a thing where i should be looking at the max watt per channel like 75 or 100
2.Do I want a 4 channel amp or higher like a 5 channel, do u have any amp suggestions? my budget for the amp is 150-250
3. Mono amp or no? class d or another class
4.Can I use the stock wiring or should I rewire?
5.Do I need to upgrade my battery or alternator?
6.If using stock wiring going to the monsoon amp, Is it as simple as running RCA from the HU to the new amp and then finding the correct wires off the stock harness and placing them in the new amp?
7. Is it better to add subs to the back of the car and another set of mids in the sail panels. or how the sound stage that our cars have already good
I have read dozens of articles and have gained a fair share of confidence and understanding but still cautious. I know I will get a lot of read the sticky or use the search but we are here to help the ignorant like myself. And sometimes conversation on one's problem teaches better than piecing it together from others problems. Any help will be greatly appreciated
10-24-2012, 10:43 PM
#2
TECH Resident
get a Massive audio NX5 its a great amp and is TINY!
stick it under the hatch panel on the driver side out of sight... it will fit trust me...
run channel 1 and 2 to the front doors with components run channel 2 and 3 to the rear hatch speakers and lastly run channel 5 to the sail panel subs hooked up to a bass **** so you can control them for different types of music... the amp is about 300 shipped
quality, compact, and stealth... and it wont overhead because the driver side panel had the cubby where air can get in for it to breathe...
stick it under the hatch panel on the driver side out of sight... it will fit trust me...
run channel 1 and 2 to the front doors with components run channel 2 and 3 to the rear hatch speakers and lastly run channel 5 to the sail panel subs hooked up to a bass **** so you can control them for different types of music... the amp is about 300 shipped
quality, compact, and stealth... and it wont overhead because the driver side panel had the cubby where air can get in for it to breathe...
10-24-2012, 11:01 PM
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get a Massive audio NX5 its a great amp and is TINY!
stick it under the hatch panel on the driver side out of sight... it will fit trust me...
run channel 1 and 2 to the front doors with components run channel 2 and 3 to the rear hatch speakers and lastly run channel 5 to the sail panel subs hooked up to a bass **** so you can control them for different types of music... the amp is about 300 shipped
quality, compact, and stealth... and it wont overhead because the driver side panel had the cubby where air can get in for it to breathe...
stick it under the hatch panel on the driver side out of sight... it will fit trust me...
run channel 1 and 2 to the front doors with components run channel 2 and 3 to the rear hatch speakers and lastly run channel 5 to the sail panel subs hooked up to a bass **** so you can control them for different types of music... the amp is about 300 shipped
quality, compact, and stealth... and it wont overhead because the driver side panel had the cubby where air can get in for it to breathe...
just give me a call
Dennis
10-25-2012, 06:06 PM
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Hey Dennis thanks again for the bezel you made me last month, this is Peter from Orlando we emailed back and forth a few times, hope your vacation was good. Thanks for all the help
here is a pic of how its coming along. I don't have it pushed in all the way because I need to pop it out once more to run the amp rca cables and rear view camera setup
If you guys need a great bezel go to Dennis, quality is fantastic and color match was perfect.
Last edited by Iceman85; 10-26-2012 at 02:39 AM.
10-29-2012, 11:31 PM
#6
TECH Resident
1.How many watts should I go for, I'm afraid to burn out my speakers? The NX5 is perfect... just adjust the gain so you arent overexerting the speakers
2.Do I want a 4 channel amp or higher like a 5 channel, do u have any amp suggestions?
again bump up and buy the NX5 about $300 but worth it to power the whole thing and be able to hide it
3. Mono amp or no? class d or another class? covered with the NX5
4.Can I use the stock wiring or should I rewire? I would rewire... i usually use 14 gauge for all the doors
5.Do I need to upgrade my battery or alternator? no. an optima would be nice if you plan on running it with the car off but otherwise not needed.
6.If using stock wiring going to the monsoon amp, Is it as simple as running RCA from the HU to the new amp and then finding the correct wires off the stock harness and placing them in the new amp? - not sure i understand your question... your head unit should have 3 sets of RCA's run them to the front rear and sub port on the amp.. forget the monsoon system just bypass it all together and avoid trouble. the speaker wires from the back of the radio will do nothing with a new amp so just tape them up and forget about it
7. Is it better to add subs to the back of the car and another set of mids in the sail panels. or how the sound stage that our cars have already good - Components with a NICE tweeter in the front doors, and run some 6" or modify and put 8" subs in the sails... run the factory hatch speakers as rear and the doors as front and then the sail subs wired to the mono channel... will have good balance and surprisingly good bass.. just remember to dynomat the crap out of the sails to avoid rattling
I think i answered EVERYTHING this time so idk what else you could need to know
2.Do I want a 4 channel amp or higher like a 5 channel, do u have any amp suggestions?
again bump up and buy the NX5 about $300 but worth it to power the whole thing and be able to hide it
3. Mono amp or no? class d or another class? covered with the NX5
4.Can I use the stock wiring or should I rewire? I would rewire... i usually use 14 gauge for all the doors
5.Do I need to upgrade my battery or alternator? no. an optima would be nice if you plan on running it with the car off but otherwise not needed.
6.If using stock wiring going to the monsoon amp, Is it as simple as running RCA from the HU to the new amp and then finding the correct wires off the stock harness and placing them in the new amp? - not sure i understand your question... your head unit should have 3 sets of RCA's run them to the front rear and sub port on the amp.. forget the monsoon system just bypass it all together and avoid trouble. the speaker wires from the back of the radio will do nothing with a new amp so just tape them up and forget about it
7. Is it better to add subs to the back of the car and another set of mids in the sail panels. or how the sound stage that our cars have already good - Components with a NICE tweeter in the front doors, and run some 6" or modify and put 8" subs in the sails... run the factory hatch speakers as rear and the doors as front and then the sail subs wired to the mono channel... will have good balance and surprisingly good bass.. just remember to dynomat the crap out of the sails to avoid rattling
I think i answered EVERYTHING this time so idk what else you could need to know
11-05-2012, 04:47 PM
#7
IMO, buy a 4 channel amp and use it to power the front door speakers and sailpanel subs, power the rear hatch speakers with the rear channels of the headunit amp.
A Alpine MRP-F300 (about $150) or a Kicker ZX350.4 (about $200) would be a good choice, and can also be mounted in the factory amp location.
A Alpine MRP-F300 (about $150) or a Kicker ZX350.4 (about $200) would be a good choice, and can also be mounted in the factory amp location.
