Any chraging system gurus here?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 84
Likes: 2
From: Springdale, AR
Any chraging system gurus here? I'm in the process of installing a 360 amp alternator with external voltage regulator and external voltage rectifier. It seems to be a modified delco CS140 or similar. I am almost done fabricating the bracketry to hold this monster(passenger head mount) but I need a little help with the wiring. I cannot find a wiring diagram/pinout for the voltage regulator. It
is 3 wire and I am assuming it's field, power, and ignition switched power. But that's assuming it's case is grounded, if
not the black could be ground. Does anyone recognize this particular voltage regulator? From what i can tell it's a Hygrade
VR119 but I cannot find any info on it. Possibly interchangeable with Delco D628A but can't find info on that. Maybe someone recognizes the connection layout?
The regulator
Does anybody recognize this unit or know a way I can figure out it's pinout?
Here is the monster alternator
The field coil is internally grounded on one side and the black terminal is it's input.
The massive voltage rectifier
Pretty straight forward wiring here.
If anyone knows what the voltage regulator is or any info on it's wiring please let me know. Also is the single wire that runs to the stock alternator just an ignition controlled 12v source? Thank you for looking.
is 3 wire and I am assuming it's field, power, and ignition switched power. But that's assuming it's case is grounded, if
not the black could be ground. Does anyone recognize this particular voltage regulator? From what i can tell it's a Hygrade
VR119 but I cannot find any info on it. Possibly interchangeable with Delco D628A but can't find info on that. Maybe someone recognizes the connection layout?
The regulator
Does anybody recognize this unit or know a way I can figure out it's pinout?
Here is the monster alternator
The field coil is internally grounded on one side and the black terminal is it's input.
The massive voltage rectifier
Pretty straight forward wiring here.
If anyone knows what the voltage regulator is or any info on it's wiring please let me know. Also is the single wire that runs to the stock alternator just an ignition controlled 12v source? Thank you for looking.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&partnum=VR119
for the VR119 voltage regulator, google is showing it by Standard Motor Products, and i found various pictures the same as your above on amazon and at rockauto.
rockauto lists it for 1960's to 1970's vehicles which means it's going to be a simple wiring setup- no fancy electronics back in those days.
Now I would not assume which wires go where because you may wreck the regulator. I know for those era devices the warning lamp wire (forget which color) must go through the bulb in the dash that lights up to limit current. If it doesn't and goes straight to a +12v source then you can fry it. But for the warning lamp wire you don't need to use it. But I know at the very least you need two connections- one connection to the ignition source which will have system voltage when key is on to know what to regulate, and then the other wire goes to the field terminal on the alternator which actually causes the voltage regulation or output of the alternator. The regulator being epoxied in an aluminum case, i would guess the black wire is a ground wire but i am guessing.
I suggest to try calling/emailing some alternator places and asking, and you might try looking up and calling Standard Motor Products.
http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml
for the VR119 voltage regulator, google is showing it by Standard Motor Products, and i found various pictures the same as your above on amazon and at rockauto.
rockauto lists it for 1960's to 1970's vehicles which means it's going to be a simple wiring setup- no fancy electronics back in those days.
Now I would not assume which wires go where because you may wreck the regulator. I know for those era devices the warning lamp wire (forget which color) must go through the bulb in the dash that lights up to limit current. If it doesn't and goes straight to a +12v source then you can fry it. But for the warning lamp wire you don't need to use it. But I know at the very least you need two connections- one connection to the ignition source which will have system voltage when key is on to know what to regulate, and then the other wire goes to the field terminal on the alternator which actually causes the voltage regulation or output of the alternator. The regulator being epoxied in an aluminum case, i would guess the black wire is a ground wire but i am guessing.
I suggest to try calling/emailing some alternator places and asking, and you might try looking up and calling Standard Motor Products.
http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml
also be aware you have an external regulator and external rectifier. you're regulator wires will connect to the rectifier which is where a DC voltage will be.
your alternator in this case because it does not have an internal rectifier is producing AC power, hence the two output terminals from the alternator instead of just one +BAT terminal. The rectifier box will get hot if you're pulling lots of power from the alternator so make sure it's mounted in a good location with air flow and against a good metal to act as a heat sink.
your alternator in this case because it does not have an internal rectifier is producing AC power, hence the two output terminals from the alternator instead of just one +BAT terminal. The rectifier box will get hot if you're pulling lots of power from the alternator so make sure it's mounted in a good location with air flow and against a good metal to act as a heat sink.
i also can't see your pics easily at the moment, but from the looks of things I think it goes like this:
your 3 red outputs from the back of the alternator is AC output and goes to the 3 terminals on the AC side of the rectifier box. your rectifier box i don't believe needs to be grounded, but your alternator case does because of the grounding of the internal field winding to the case.
for the DC side of the rectifier box you would put - to the negative battery post and/or chassis ground. + side of rectifier is unregulated DC without a regulator, so that would go to the red wire of the regulator and to the ignition system key on. The blue wire would be field current to regulate alternator and go to the black terminal on back of alternator case you mentioned. black wire of the regulator would go to battery neg or chassis ground since it's a transistorized regulator. disclaimer, this is an educated guess not knowing for sure the regulator.
how did you come by this alternator, rectifier, and regulator?
your 3 red outputs from the back of the alternator is AC output and goes to the 3 terminals on the AC side of the rectifier box. your rectifier box i don't believe needs to be grounded, but your alternator case does because of the grounding of the internal field winding to the case.
for the DC side of the rectifier box you would put - to the negative battery post and/or chassis ground. + side of rectifier is unregulated DC without a regulator, so that would go to the red wire of the regulator and to the ignition system key on. The blue wire would be field current to regulate alternator and go to the black terminal on back of alternator case you mentioned. black wire of the regulator would go to battery neg or chassis ground since it's a transistorized regulator. disclaimer, this is an educated guess not knowing for sure the regulator.
how did you come by this alternator, rectifier, and regulator?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 84
Likes: 2
From: Springdale, AR
Thanks for the help! After splitting open the regulator and checking it out better I'm fairly sure the wiring is exactly as it looks. Blue to field, black ground, and red +(straight off rectifier, through ignition controlled relay, correct?) I ordered the alternator relocation kit from cbrperformance and made an adapter bracket for this alternator. Mocked it all up and it looked great. Should be doing the final install next weekend. I came across this set up on eBay and ended up winning it for $150.
Last edited by ARLS1; Feb 17, 2013 at 11:33 AM.
