Creating a 12v Switched
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Creating a 12v Switched How can i create a 12v source that will turn on with the car?
Im installing 3 Gauges and i dont want to tap to the only known source.. the head unit.. i already have the steering wheel controls running on the head units 12v switched. so i would like to keep the wiring simple and clean for any future repairs/modifications. Or would it be safe to run all 3 gauges on the 12v Switched from the HU
Im installing 3 Gauges and i dont want to tap to the only known source.. the head unit.. i already have the steering wheel controls running on the head units 12v switched. so i would like to keep the wiring simple and clean for any future repairs/modifications. Or would it be safe to run all 3 gauges on the 12v Switched from the HU
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
There are three extra ports in the fuse panel that GM put there for adding accessories without tapping into existing circuits. They look like half a fuse slot (just one flat blade connector instead of two) and are labeled BATT (constant power), IGN (ignition switched power), and ACCY (retained accessory power - like the radio).
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Yes, if you look at the fuse panel on the left end of the dash, you'll see several unused ports (holes) next to fuses. There are three of them available for accessory use: one marked IGN at the left end of the fourth row, one marked BATT in the fourth row next to the WIPER/WASH fuse, and one marked ACCY in the bottom row next to the IP DIMMER fuse. These ports take a flat blade connector called a "quick connect" which is like half of a fuse. You can get crimp-on quick connect terminals from any auto parts store or even Wal Mart.
You don't have to remove the fuse panel to get to these ports but you will probably have to move it to feed your wire from the front of the panel to behind the dash. There is a single bolt (can't remember for sure but I think it's 10mm) at the top of the fuse panel that holds it in place. Undo the bolt and slide the fuse panel aside enough to fish your wire through then tuck it in and replace the bolt. From there you can run your wire anywhere you want under the dash (or up the A pillar).
Each of those circuits is 15-amp so you should add a smaller inline fuse if you're using anything less than 12-14 gauge wire. For typical 16 gauge hook up wire, a 5 to 7.5 amp fuse would be a good choice.
You don't have to remove the fuse panel to get to these ports but you will probably have to move it to feed your wire from the front of the panel to behind the dash. There is a single bolt (can't remember for sure but I think it's 10mm) at the top of the fuse panel that holds it in place. Undo the bolt and slide the fuse panel aside enough to fish your wire through then tuck it in and replace the bolt. From there you can run your wire anywhere you want under the dash (or up the A pillar).
Each of those circuits is 15-amp so you should add a smaller inline fuse if you're using anything less than 12-14 gauge wire. For typical 16 gauge hook up wire, a 5 to 7.5 amp fuse would be a good choice.
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Are you talking something like http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...D/8d972006.jpg
just run the wires and plug it in?
just run the wires and plug it in?
No, it's a spade connector. Look at the interior fuse block and you can see them clear as day. I did not need to unbolt the fuse block at all, just fished a wire up there for my EWP.
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Yes, if you look at the fuse panel on the left end of the dash, you'll see several unused ports (holes) next to fuses. There are three of them available for accessory use: one marked IGN at the left end of the fourth row, one marked BATT in the fourth row next to the WIPER/WASH fuse, and one marked ACCY in the bottom row next to the IP DIMMER fuse. These ports take a flat blade connector called a "quick connect" which is like half of a fuse. You can get crimp-on quick connect terminals from any auto parts store or even Wal Mart.
You don't have to remove the fuse panel to get to these ports but you will probably have to move it to feed your wire from the front of the panel to behind the dash. There is a single bolt (can't remember for sure but I think it's 10mm) at the top of the fuse panel that holds it in place. Undo the bolt and slide the fuse panel aside enough to fish your wire through then tuck it in and replace the bolt. From there you can run your wire anywhere you want under the dash (or up the A pillar).
Each of those circuits is 15-amp so you should add a smaller inline fuse if you're using anything less than 12-14 gauge wire. For typical 16 gauge hook up wire, a 5 to 7.5 amp fuse would be a good choice.
You don't have to remove the fuse panel to get to these ports but you will probably have to move it to feed your wire from the front of the panel to behind the dash. There is a single bolt (can't remember for sure but I think it's 10mm) at the top of the fuse panel that holds it in place. Undo the bolt and slide the fuse panel aside enough to fish your wire through then tuck it in and replace the bolt. From there you can run your wire anywhere you want under the dash (or up the A pillar).
Each of those circuits is 15-amp so you should add a smaller inline fuse if you're using anything less than 12-14 gauge wire. For typical 16 gauge hook up wire, a 5 to 7.5 amp fuse would be a good choice.
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Brett Foote Thread Starter
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YAY! i made something worth while! lolI will be tackling this come Sunday.
So that i got this right you just crimp a spade connector to a wire, plug the spade into the fuse box and do as you need "fuse it" and run your wires? This seems all to simple!
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From: Moore, Oklahoma
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
