Mista Blazer

iTrader: (4)

OK so I just got my box built for my Kicker 12" L7. The box goes on top of the gas tank so I can still use the trunk for my T-tops.

Everything is great other then two things...

1: box slides around *front to back* it won't slide side to side do yo the width.. how long if a screw can I use to go through the 3/4th MDF carpet and sheet metal WITHOUT hitting the gas tank...

2: I have adjusted the rubber things for the deck lid but at the center above the tail light filler piece the deck lid rattles there. What can I do to fix this? I have it ghettoed with a sponge xD looking for a more permanent fix. Any ideas?

Will get pics of the setup here in a few hours or so.


Kicker L7 12"
Kicker IX1000.1

Chaos07

i had a setup like that back in highschool with my camaro but with 2 10s and box from best buy, i dont even remember how it was held in place.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

I would say get a thin piece of plywood (like 1/8th inch sheathing) and cut a piece to fit under the carpet then go thru the box carpet and that ply with like 1 1/8" screws.

Or you could be like me and say "who needs a backseat".

cbbass123

is it possible to hear any mids/highs with heads right next to subs? Crazy setup!

Mr.z/28

iTrader: (8)

are you still using the stock amp to power the rest of the speakers, if so what kind of speakers are you using up front in the doors and sail panels.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

Yes I can still hear the front speakers and sail panels, but then again I haven't pushed things to hard yet, just finished the install on sunday, and still need to retune the amp.

I'm a non-monsoon setup using a Pioneer HU to power the doors and sails.
Running Polk Audio DB6501 components in the front doors and SSL CP64 midranges in the sails, I spent a TOTAL of 370 for ALL (including subwoofers) 6 speakers, I'm looking at adding a 4-channel for the 6.5's but I just bought all the parts for a Whole new exhaust (Headers to Tips) and got some oil leaks to deal with so Audio is going in the backseat (pun intended) for now.

I need to pull the box out and check a few dimensions on the support frame because it's not sitting quite how I wanted it to in the back. FYI my amp isn't even screwed down, it's stays perfectly in that spot in the carpet.

Avaric3

iTrader: (3)

Wut I did to hold down my amp and you could do too for both the box and your amp is make a couple slits in your carpet very small and then run zip ties thru them to bod your equipment down. You'll o viously need more for the box tho. Just an idea that doesn't involve drilling near the gas tank at all

Mista Blazer

iTrader: (4)

I have built an amp rack where the spare tire used to be. ill have to show pics of my setup

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

I see screws at the front of your port but non going back into the box, how short is your port?

Mista Blazer

iTrader: (4)

I don't have exact measurements right now.I have the specs on my computer




If that gives you any idea lol

Its tuned to 24hz
Box hits really heard but not as hard as the setup that I had stolen out of my 02' S10 extended cab

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

OK, I see. Any reason you didn't put screws down thru the top to hold the port pieces in place?

Mista Blazer

iTrader: (4)

REason being is we didn't have a good location for he port other then eyeballing. We didn't want to split the wood. There is alot of liquid nails though haha I think it would take a SMD sub to blow this box up xD

Avaric3

iTrader: (3)

to daniel richards and to mista blazer, how many cubes are your boxes (per chamber)?

Yun Gunz

I did something along the lines of that.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

Including board thickness and port and everything about 2.24 cubic feet per side, honestly would of liked to be bigger (I've had great luck with larger boxes, my Eclipse Titanium 15 was in like a 4 cubic foot box) but I had maximum height settings for how I wanted it to sit in the car.

Avaric3

iTrader: (3)

if your comfortable wit fiberglassing, you could fiberglass the bottom of the box to contour the body better and squeeze out some extra air space

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

Honestly never cared much for the idea of using fiberglass as a box building material, I do however have some ideas on how I could modify the "frame" my box sits in to allow more space in the bottom chambers. I'll get more into it later.

Avaric3

iTrader: (3)

is there a reason you're not a fan of fiberglass or just prefer wood from experience? Right now I'm in the process of squeezing out as much space as I can from a stealth box so I'm glassin it. Just started yesterday. Its gonna be holding a sundown sa12 which calls for .8-1ft^3 sealed or 1.6-2ft^3 according to my box program. And to the up, it just occurred to me that you could drill thru the front side of the box into the back of the seats that stick up there. The seat backing is pretty solid

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Good work.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

I've worked with fiberglass in other applications but never for a speaker box, I just don't feel like it would give me the reliable strength (or density) for the level of system i'm running, and from what I've seen on those Sundowns you want a good ROCK solid box aswell.

Let me put it this way, when you go to a car show / stereo competition, the guys with fiberglassed boxes show off how good they look and the guys with MDF boxes show off how LOUD they are.