Complete sound system upgrade in 99 TA
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Complete sound system upgrade in 99 TA I've got a 99 coupe TA that is a blast to drive but the sound system is pathetic at best. I've thought of keeping the Monsoon CD player but its having volume control issues (the dial doesn't turn the volume down consistently). So it all gets replaced.
I've read a bunch of threads on either replacing just the head unit or just the speakers but not much on a full replacement. I'm looking for suggestions on the full swap. Goal isn't to get out as cheap as possible but to get out as cheap as possible with a quality balanced sound. Max budget is probably $1500 for speakers, head unit, and any additional amps that would be required.
From a head unit point of view, I'm looking for USB input (front or not), HD, maybe Bluetooth, probably just single din though I've got a spare radio bezel to try to mod for a double din. Touch screen would be cool but it isn't necessary. I'd rather a quality single din unit than a cheap double din.
For the speakers/amp I'd like a very balanced sound. Not all bass but not cheap and tinny (like the factory stuff is putting out). I don't know if replacing the factory amp at this point would be beneficial, I'm assuming it would. I'd like to hide any new amp(s) that are used as I'd like to park occasionally with the t-tops off. This also means I'd like to keep the storage slots for the t-tops as well.
I've seen the speaker packages from the forum sponsors, and if those are the best bang I'm open to them, but if better options exist when replacing the entire setup, I'd like to get the best bang for my buck on a full replacement.
I've read a bunch of threads on either replacing just the head unit or just the speakers but not much on a full replacement. I'm looking for suggestions on the full swap. Goal isn't to get out as cheap as possible but to get out as cheap as possible with a quality balanced sound. Max budget is probably $1500 for speakers, head unit, and any additional amps that would be required.
From a head unit point of view, I'm looking for USB input (front or not), HD, maybe Bluetooth, probably just single din though I've got a spare radio bezel to try to mod for a double din. Touch screen would be cool but it isn't necessary. I'd rather a quality single din unit than a cheap double din.
For the speakers/amp I'd like a very balanced sound. Not all bass but not cheap and tinny (like the factory stuff is putting out). I don't know if replacing the factory amp at this point would be beneficial, I'm assuming it would. I'd like to hide any new amp(s) that are used as I'd like to park occasionally with the t-tops off. This also means I'd like to keep the storage slots for the t-tops as well.
I've seen the speaker packages from the forum sponsors, and if those are the best bang I'm open to them, but if better options exist when replacing the entire setup, I'd like to get the best bang for my buck on a full replacement.
heres what id pick up for a pretty awesome sounding system-
headunit- http://shop.doubledmods.com/Camaro-9...oneer80PRS.htm
speakers- http://shop.doubledmods.com/Gen-4-Sp...4-gen4pkg4.htm
amplifier- http://shop.doubledmods.com/ASA-1100...ASA11005PB.htm
sub stealthbox- http://shop.doubledmods.com/10-Steal...Mstealth10.htm
and for a sub to go in that box, id look at either an alpine type r or a sundown sa10. the best part of that box is that it goes in the hatch to the side and doesn't take up any useable trunk space
headunit- http://shop.doubledmods.com/Camaro-9...oneer80PRS.htm
speakers- http://shop.doubledmods.com/Gen-4-Sp...4-gen4pkg4.htm
amplifier- http://shop.doubledmods.com/ASA-1100...ASA11005PB.htm
sub stealthbox- http://shop.doubledmods.com/10-Steal...Mstealth10.htm
and for a sub to go in that box, id look at either an alpine type r or a sundown sa10. the best part of that box is that it goes in the hatch to the side and doesn't take up any useable trunk space
Kee Audio can set you up.
Ian is a GREAT guy to work with... Talked with me for quite a while, and it was a GREAT price. He also hooked me up with a head unit that interfaced with Pandora via Android and did all sorts of other cool ****.
Ian is a GREAT guy to work with... Talked with me for quite a while, and it was a GREAT price. He also hooked me up with a head unit that interfaced with Pandora via Android and did all sorts of other cool ****.
OK, couple of quick tips and a little of what I did.
Replace it all,
Your can get a decent (specifically with 4 volt preouts and HPF, LPF) Pioneer HU off amazon for around 150 depending on which "special features" you want (ie, bluetooth, HD radio, sat radio support)
I got a set of Polk Audio DB6501 components for the front doors for under 110 off amazon, the "sssss" can be a little harsh at times but not very often and I can't truely judge them till I get them on an amp.
I went cheap for the sail panels (since I'm non-monsoon) and picked up a set of SSL CP64 for 20 each off amazon, but in general all you want is a midrange in the sails.
eliminate the rear hatch 4's (if you go with an aftermarket amp) they really just pull the soundstage to far back in the car, same with the sails which is why you only want a midrange in them.
that covers your HU and 4 speakers for 300 bucks.
Now you would get to the more advanced stuff and add a sub, here you have a few choices even keeping your t-top storage, do a small 10 in a stealth enclosure that goes in the hole to the left of the t-tops would go with what your looking for with hiding the amps and stuff, personally I went wild and removed the rear seat and built a dual 12 setup that kicks hard for the money I have in it (220 for the pair of Planet Audio BB212D's and 150 for an autotek mean machine M2500.1D).
not counting wiring, which if your doing dual (one for sub and one for other speakers) amps will probably be around 150 for everything you need to wire that up.
so I'm at 670 plus wiring for what I have right now but about 200 more for the 4 channel I want and 275 more for the bigger amp I want for the subs and like I said 150 to upgrade the wiring would put me just under 1300 but I could recoup some of that selling my old amp.
So yeah it's totally doable to get great sound in that budget.
Replace it all,
Your can get a decent (specifically with 4 volt preouts and HPF, LPF) Pioneer HU off amazon for around 150 depending on which "special features" you want (ie, bluetooth, HD radio, sat radio support)
I got a set of Polk Audio DB6501 components for the front doors for under 110 off amazon, the "sssss" can be a little harsh at times but not very often and I can't truely judge them till I get them on an amp.
I went cheap for the sail panels (since I'm non-monsoon) and picked up a set of SSL CP64 for 20 each off amazon, but in general all you want is a midrange in the sails.
eliminate the rear hatch 4's (if you go with an aftermarket amp) they really just pull the soundstage to far back in the car, same with the sails which is why you only want a midrange in them.
that covers your HU and 4 speakers for 300 bucks.
Now you would get to the more advanced stuff and add a sub, here you have a few choices even keeping your t-top storage, do a small 10 in a stealth enclosure that goes in the hole to the left of the t-tops would go with what your looking for with hiding the amps and stuff, personally I went wild and removed the rear seat and built a dual 12 setup that kicks hard for the money I have in it (220 for the pair of Planet Audio BB212D's and 150 for an autotek mean machine M2500.1D).
not counting wiring, which if your doing dual (one for sub and one for other speakers) amps will probably be around 150 for everything you need to wire that up.
so I'm at 670 plus wiring for what I have right now but about 200 more for the 4 channel I want and 275 more for the bigger amp I want for the subs and like I said 150 to upgrade the wiring would put me just under 1300 but I could recoup some of that selling my old amp.
So yeah it's totally doable to get great sound in that budget.
also, if you want you could also get a tablet and use it to carry all your music.
don't forget, depending on the power requirements of the amps you choose you may need to upgrade your alternator and do the big 3 if you haven't done that yet.
don't forget, depending on the power requirements of the amps you choose you may need to upgrade your alternator and do the big 3 if you haven't done that yet.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
ive got a great sounding system with a bare minimum single din that had the USB input. I also put in the alpine type S component speakers and a polk audio 12 inch sub in the rear. the speakers are powered by a sound ordnance m4075 and the sub is powered by a rockford fosgate p5002. i spend around 1g. the only issue is i have some buzzing in the speakers from either the battery relocation or the ground for the amps is too close to the battery ground
I also upgraded to the truck alternator as well but mainly because my stock alternator was crapping out and flickering before installing any of this so i went overkill
I also upgraded to the truck alternator as well but mainly because my stock alternator was crapping out and flickering before installing any of this so i went overkill
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I appreciate all the advice. I've used a couple cheap had units in the past to feed a pair of subs. Never upgraded the rest of the speakers so its a bit new territory. The idea of eliminating the sail speakers seems to make sense. Don't really need 10 speakers in there, especially that far back.
The alternator has been upgraded already. The big 3 wiring isn't an issue either and will be done. Not looking for anything mass or earth shaking, just a balanced sound. I think the hidden 10" sub would be the perfect balance and leave the t-top storage. I'll find somewhere a little more discrete to mount the amp as well. Mildly out of sight is enough rather than absolutely hidden. Looking to stop any opportunist from seeing an easy target and walking off with it.
I've got a tablet and smartphone with most of my music/streaming loaded on it. I don't care if I get controls for the source through the head unit, just that it takes the signal from the USB, running both android and iOS.
I will look for the 4v preouts and HPF and LPF. Seems to make sense if you plan to run everything from an amp(s).
The alternator has been upgraded already. The big 3 wiring isn't an issue either and will be done. Not looking for anything mass or earth shaking, just a balanced sound. I think the hidden 10" sub would be the perfect balance and leave the t-top storage. I'll find somewhere a little more discrete to mount the amp as well. Mildly out of sight is enough rather than absolutely hidden. Looking to stop any opportunist from seeing an easy target and walking off with it.
I've got a tablet and smartphone with most of my music/streaming loaded on it. I don't care if I get controls for the source through the head unit, just that it takes the signal from the USB, running both android and iOS.
I will look for the 4v preouts and HPF and LPF. Seems to make sense if you plan to run everything from an amp(s).
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Verdad Gallardo I don't even use USB anymore... Blutooth FTW.
I like it because I can get in my car, and within 15 seconds my stereo is synced to my phone, either playing MP3's, Pandora, ect with speakerphone enabled... phone never even leaves my pocket. I like it because it's automatic, no effort at all required on my part.
I like it because I can get in my car, and within 15 seconds my stereo is synced to my phone, either playing MP3's, Pandora, ect with speakerphone enabled... phone never even leaves my pocket. I like it because it's automatic, no effort at all required on my part.
I appreciate all the advice. I've used a couple cheap had units in the past to feed a pair of subs. Never upgraded the rest of the speakers so its a bit new territory. The idea of eliminating the sail speakers seems to make sense. Don't really need 10 speakers in there, especially that far back.
The alternator has been upgraded already. The big 3 wiring isn't an issue either and will be done. Not looking for anything mass or earth shaking, just a balanced sound. I think the hidden 10" sub would be the perfect balance and leave the t-top storage. I'll find somewhere a little more discrete to mount the amp as well. Mildly out of sight is enough rather than absolutely hidden. Looking to stop any opportunist from seeing an easy target and walking off with it.
I've got a tablet and smartphone with most of my music/streaming loaded on it. I don't care if I get controls for the source through the head unit, just that it takes the signal from the USB, running both android and iOS.
I will look for the 4v preouts and HPF and LPF. Seems to make sense if you plan to run everything from an amp(s).
The alternator has been upgraded already. The big 3 wiring isn't an issue either and will be done. Not looking for anything mass or earth shaking, just a balanced sound. I think the hidden 10" sub would be the perfect balance and leave the t-top storage. I'll find somewhere a little more discrete to mount the amp as well. Mildly out of sight is enough rather than absolutely hidden. Looking to stop any opportunist from seeing an easy target and walking off with it.
I've got a tablet and smartphone with most of my music/streaming loaded on it. I don't care if I get controls for the source through the head unit, just that it takes the signal from the USB, running both android and iOS.
I will look for the 4v preouts and HPF and LPF. Seems to make sense if you plan to run everything from an amp(s).
High Pass Filters kick ***, I can turn my system up to like 56-58 (with a max of 62) before I get any distortion from the doors or sails and it is ungodly loud at that level, I usually play it around 39-42 (30 in my neighborhood) or 48 is my usual max when I'm showing off the subs.
I don't even use USB anymore... Blutooth FTW.
I like it because I can get in my car, and within 15 seconds my stereo is synced to my phone, either playing MP3's, Pandora, ect with speakerphone enabled... phone never even leaves my pocket. I like it because it's automatic, no effort at all required on my part.
I like it because I can get in my car, and within 15 seconds my stereo is synced to my phone, either playing MP3's, Pandora, ect with speakerphone enabled... phone never even leaves my pocket. I like it because it's automatic, no effort at all required on my part.
Plus many "sound enhancements" on tablets or phones don't work over bluetooth, I've got Poweramp on my android tablet with it set to resume on headset plug-in and pause on headset unplug, so all I have to do is plug into the the headphone jack on the tablet and the other end is plugged into the 3.5mm jack on the HU, the USB on the typical HU isn't going to have enough power to charge a tablet and unless you find a HU designed for it, most only do HU controls of Ipods/Iphones so I don't bother with the USB either. Using my tablet as ONLY a music player for when I'm in the car I get 32-34 days per charge with my daily routine so keeping it charged is not a concern for me.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Been looking at head units some more. I've come across a Pioneer HU (DEH-X8500BH) which fits my wants, or seems to. It has Bluetooth, USB input, iPod/ipad as well as android compatibility, it has an HD tuner (don't use satellite radio in the cars equipped now), it has 3 sets of 4v outputs, HPF/LPF, and a front aux input. Seems pretty complete for $210. Compared to HU listed above, other than a slightly better looking face plate, is there much else?
I know the DEH-80PRS lists it as having an "audiophile" quality DAC but "audiophile" quality is a pretty broad interpretation to a lot of different manufacturers. In the home audio and headphone world a decent DAC goes a long way, but there are often much more important road blocks to quality sound than the DAC quality. If it sounds significantly better, its worth the cost but if its just and advertising gimmick I like the feature set of the DEH-X8500BH.
I know the DEH-80PRS lists it as having an "audiophile" quality DAC but "audiophile" quality is a pretty broad interpretation to a lot of different manufacturers. In the home audio and headphone world a decent DAC goes a long way, but there are often much more important road blocks to quality sound than the DAC quality. If it sounds significantly better, its worth the cost but if its just and advertising gimmick I like the feature set of the DEH-X8500BH.
I know the DEH-80PRS lists it as having an "audiophile" quality DAC but "audiophile" quality is a pretty broad interpretation to a lot of different manufacturers. In the home audio and headphone world a decent DAC goes a long way, but there are often much more important road blocks to quality sound than the DAC quality. If it sounds significantly better, its worth the cost but if its just and advertising gimmick I like the feature set of the DEH-X8500BH.
Been looking at head units some more. I've come across a Pioneer HU (DEH-X8500BH) which fits my wants, or seems to. It has Bluetooth, USB input, iPod/ipad as well as android compatibility, it has an HD tuner (don't use satellite radio in the cars equipped now), it has 3 sets of 4v outputs, HPF/LPF, and a front aux input. Seems pretty complete for $210. Compared to HU listed above, other than a slightly better looking face plate, is there much else?
I know the DEH-80PRS lists it as having an "audiophile" quality DAC but "audiophile" quality is a pretty broad interpretation to a lot of different manufacturers. In the home audio and headphone world a decent DAC goes a long way, but there are often much more important road blocks to quality sound than the DAC quality. If it sounds significantly better, its worth the cost but if its just and advertising gimmick I like the feature set of the DEH-X8500BH.
I know the DEH-80PRS lists it as having an "audiophile" quality DAC but "audiophile" quality is a pretty broad interpretation to a lot of different manufacturers. In the home audio and headphone world a decent DAC goes a long way, but there are often much more important road blocks to quality sound than the DAC quality. If it sounds significantly better, its worth the cost but if its just and advertising gimmick I like the feature set of the DEH-X8500BH.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Yes, but $210 includes an antenna adapter, single din adapter, and wiring harness, plus its from a forum supporter. It's not a huge price difference and seeing the support/deals/effort some vendors give on this board i will be glad to spend a couple extra bucks for their service rather than a faceless, nameless company through Amazon.
