Keep murdering alternators
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: forked river
Keep murdering alternators so I put another alternator out of its misery tonight. maybe some of you guys can help me out this is alternator 5 in the last few years
common ground with it happening is when the car spins or breaks loose and bumps the rev limiter it stops charging and is completely shot. Ive tried napa brand, advance auto brang, auto zones brand, and a local guy who rebuilds them. same thing happens hit rev limiter or it spins and then hits rev limiter it stops charging and dies.
checked all my connections and there good
I have a red top that's a month old so the battery is ok
only thing I can think of is my car revs fast due to my converter and trans set up and if it breaks loose and revs extremely fast to a point my shift light doesn't come on fast enough. could high rpm fast revving kill it? if so any ideas how to protect it?
common ground with it happening is when the car spins or breaks loose and bumps the rev limiter it stops charging and is completely shot. Ive tried napa brand, advance auto brang, auto zones brand, and a local guy who rebuilds them. same thing happens hit rev limiter or it spins and then hits rev limiter it stops charging and dies.
checked all my connections and there good
I have a red top that's a month old so the battery is ok
only thing I can think of is my car revs fast due to my converter and trans set up and if it breaks loose and revs extremely fast to a point my shift light doesn't come on fast enough. could high rpm fast revving kill it? if so any ideas how to protect it?
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: forked river
if the car all of a sudden looses traction or spins to fast for me to shift it tonight i didnt even hit the limiter just spun up real fast and it killed it could fast reving be killing it...?
Odds are your blowing the rectifiers, the stock CS130D is a crappy little unit, I imagine if you spun it high enough the stator output might exceed the rectifiers capacity, but there could be other causes.
Suggestions are to get a CS144 or AD244 (whichever is easier for you to find) and do a "big 3" wiring upgrade. Both of these alternators are a better design then the stock one, with higher output, but the CS144 only has like one solder connection in the entire thing so it is much easier to rebuild by yourself (there's a 2 part video on youtube).
I remember back on my first car (a 96 Tahoe) I killed the factory alt, replaced it with one from advance and killed that one too all inside of like 2 years before selling the truck so it's not that hard to kill.
Suggestions are to get a CS144 or AD244 (whichever is easier for you to find) and do a "big 3" wiring upgrade. Both of these alternators are a better design then the stock one, with higher output, but the CS144 only has like one solder connection in the entire thing so it is much easier to rebuild by yourself (there's a 2 part video on youtube).
I remember back on my first car (a 96 Tahoe) I killed the factory alt, replaced it with one from advance and killed that one too all inside of like 2 years before selling the truck so it's not that hard to kill.
buy a powerbastards 225 amp alternator...
it usually ships with an overdrive pulley on it, so take that one off and install your stock pulley onto it...
your problems will be gone
they also make a one wire version for guys not using the stock pcm any more.
it usually ships with an overdrive pulley on it, so take that one off and install your stock pulley onto it...
your problems will be gone
they also make a one wire version for guys not using the stock pcm any more.
