What should I do about the sail panel "subs"?
I am mainly worried about having too much base if I just do replacement subs on top of a sub in the hatch. Am I giving too much credit to the small subs?
There is no such thing as "to much" bass, your aftermarket subwoofer amp and head unit will allow you to turn the bass down if it is "to much". The one thing I can say beyond any shadow of a doubt is you DO NOT want full range speakers in your sail panels it will over power your front doors and pull your soundstage far behind you, the factory knew this aswell exampled by how on the base model (non monsoon) systems they use a 10 ohm speaker there (which based on the math means it pulls 2.5x LESS power then the front doors, that is how much they had to drop the power going to full range speakers in that location to balance the system).
I don't mind it too much, and can always change it later.
I don't mind it too much, and can always change it later.Trending Topics
The second option as discussed is to pull the signal from the rear hatch, which is a 4ohm full range signal and use that to power a set of full range coaxial speakers. This gives you full range sound then from the doors and sail panels but eliminates your subwoofer bass frequency signal. No big deal if you are planning on replacing this with a 10" sub in the rear because you would then cover your frequency ranges again by doing that.
I have some kick butt bass systems I have done throughout the years with stealth box style bass additions. I even custom make 12" stealth boxes and would be glad to help you if you need it. The current bass system I have for the holidays would push about 120db minimum and have clean, solid bass response. Comes with everything including the amp wiring kit. I love the little amp I have for this system as it is tiny but powerful so it is easy to hide but also has all the settings on the side of it for easy access to tuning. It is a great little beast of an amp and just a little bit bigger then a dollar bill.
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