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What should I do about the sail panel "subs"?

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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 12:29 AM
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Default What should I do about the sail panel "subs"?

I upgraded my door and hatch speakers here recently and I am collecting the pieces for a single 10" in a sub box in the hatch. My sail panel "subs" no longer work at all and you can tell there's a dead spot in sound right there. Should I replace with factory sized subs or mod the harnesses for a set of regular speakers? I am not looking for a ton of bass or anything so that is why I am leaning towards a regular set of speakers..
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 12:37 AM
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not sure what you mean by "mod the harness" all that the amp puts out to those channels is low frequency so installing "normal" (coaxial) speakers in there would be a waste, just put replacement 6"-6.5" subs there to match the ohm load properly, you don;t want full range in that location.
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 10:43 AM
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I read someplace on here you can install standard speakers but they need to be rewired to work properly and have more than just the low frequency stuff.

I am mainly worried about having too much base if I just do replacement subs on top of a sub in the hatch. Am I giving too much credit to the small subs?
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 01:38 PM
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the only ways you could get full range to the sails is to either repin the amp so the rear hatch speaker outputs go to the sails (and the sail subs to the hatch) or if you have an aftermarket HU you could totally bypass the amp and run the rear channels of the HU to the sail locations but then you won't have the hatch speakers and you'll also have to rewire the front doors.

There is no such thing as "to much" bass, your aftermarket subwoofer amp and head unit will allow you to turn the bass down if it is "to much". The one thing I can say beyond any shadow of a doubt is you DO NOT want full range speakers in your sail panels it will over power your front doors and pull your soundstage far behind you, the factory knew this aswell exampled by how on the base model (non monsoon) systems they use a 10 ohm speaker there (which based on the math means it pulls 2.5x LESS power then the front doors, that is how much they had to drop the power going to full range speakers in that location to balance the system).
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 03:31 PM
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I wondered about that causing problems with the front speakers. I'm just going to replace them like you said and tune the bass settings to my liking.
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 06:40 PM
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I can attest that full-range speakers in the sail panels overpower the door speakers. I have Rockford Fosgate 6.75" 3-ways in the sail panels, and similar RF 6.5" 2-ways in the doors. Unfortunately I wasn't on here enough to listen to Daniel's preaching about the sound stage until after the deed was done. I don't mind it too much, and can always change it later.
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DamonZ28
I can attest that full-range speakers in the sail panels overpower the door speakers. I have Rockford Fosgate 6.75" 3-ways in the sail panels, and similar RF 6.5" 2-ways in the doors. Unfortunately I wasn't on here enough to listen to Daniel's preaching about the sound stage until after the deed was done. I don't mind it too much, and can always change it later.
I'm a non-monsoon car and I put some speakers (SSL CP64) with a 100-8,000 response range and that is FAR to high and still easily over powers the doors, once I get an amp on them I will be able to filter the range down to a better response, this is why I know this.
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Old Nov 27, 2013 | 04:48 PM
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If you have the stock Monsoon system in place then you have 2 options for the sail panels. One, replace with the correct DVC 6.5" subs so the system will be intact as it was from the factory. With the correct subs in that location, it actually hits pretty hard. In fact, most people have never heard a functional Monsoon system because these cars are not exactly new any more and most Monsoon speakers are trashed at this point which is why I do exact replacement systems for them.
The second option as discussed is to pull the signal from the rear hatch, which is a 4ohm full range signal and use that to power a set of full range coaxial speakers. This gives you full range sound then from the doors and sail panels but eliminates your subwoofer bass frequency signal. No big deal if you are planning on replacing this with a 10" sub in the rear because you would then cover your frequency ranges again by doing that.
I have some kick butt bass systems I have done throughout the years with stealth box style bass additions. I even custom make 12" stealth boxes and would be glad to help you if you need it. The current bass system I have for the holidays would push about 120db minimum and have clean, solid bass response. Comes with everything including the amp wiring kit. I love the little amp I have for this system as it is tiny but powerful so it is easy to hide but also has all the settings on the side of it for easy access to tuning. It is a great little beast of an amp and just a little bit bigger then a dollar bill.
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