Redoing power wires
02-17-2015, 12:17 AM
#1
Redoing power wires So recently I have found that my power wires connecting to the battery are corroded to all hell and I am not sure how far down the line this spans (I'm talking I had 6 strands of wire remaining under the red boot when I pulled it up)
So I want to redo all of my wiring that comes into the battery terminal there- I believe it is the alternator, starter, and fuse box wires, and then grounds on the negative side of the battery.
Couple questions here:
1) what gauge is the factory wiring?
2) what should I upgrade my wire to?
To be clear about my vehicle (2002 LS1 Camaro) it is a street driven car, no sound system (nav in dash unit, but stock monsoon speakers).
Car goes to the track and will get a decent size cam down the road (I mention this because I had power fluctuations with my old cam in my v6 when slowing down)
Is there anything I should be aware of when doing this? I picked up an 8ton hydraulic crimper from harbour freight to pop the terminals on...
So I want to redo all of my wiring that comes into the battery terminal there- I believe it is the alternator, starter, and fuse box wires, and then grounds on the negative side of the battery.
Couple questions here:
1) what gauge is the factory wiring?
2) what should I upgrade my wire to?
To be clear about my vehicle (2002 LS1 Camaro) it is a street driven car, no sound system (nav in dash unit, but stock monsoon speakers).
Car goes to the track and will get a decent size cam down the road (I mention this because I had power fluctuations with my old cam in my v6 when slowing down)
Is there anything I should be aware of when doing this? I picked up an 8ton hydraulic crimper from harbour freight to pop the terminals on...
02-17-2015, 09:19 AM
#3
Sorry, I guess I should have stated- I am aware of the Big 3 mod- but that is 2 grounds and the alternator wire. I am looking to replace all the wires connecting to the battery, so this would include those grounds, the alternator wire, the starter wire and I believe the fuse panel wire are the 3 power wires that come into the battery.
I know guys do the big 3 with 0 gauge wire - but if I have 3 "0" gauge wire coming into the positive battery terminal, is there even a ring connector that is that big to accommodate that?
Also another question here- are the factory wires pure copper or CCA? because if they are CCA do you really need to upgrade the gauge to benefit or could you simply switch to a pure copper wire and say a 2 gauge wire and see the same results?
I know guys do the big 3 with 0 gauge wire - but if I have 3 "0" gauge wire coming into the positive battery terminal, is there even a ring connector that is that big to accommodate that?
Also another question here- are the factory wires pure copper or CCA? because if they are CCA do you really need to upgrade the gauge to benefit or could you simply switch to a pure copper wire and say a 2 gauge wire and see the same results?
02-17-2015, 01:41 PM
#4
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While it is just wiring, I don't think I would have enjoyed this as a DIY project...
I did the Big 3 a while back, and I purchased it from a company that I think was a sponsor on here. Anyway, the wire is *thick*. The lug terminals are thicker, and I cannot even imagine trying to make them and achieving equivalent quality without a lot of trial and error.
Here was the kit I used:
This was their description of the kit:
I did the Big 3 a while back, and I purchased it from a company that I think was a sponsor on here. Anyway, the wire is *thick*. The lug terminals are thicker, and I cannot even imagine trying to make them and achieving equivalent quality without a lot of trial and error.
Here was the kit I used:
This was their description of the kit:
This is a complete set of positive and ground cables.
Cables are built using 1/0 gauge copper cable for the starter, 2 gauge copper cable for the alternator and 2 gauge copper cable to the junction box, 1/0 gauge copper cable for the engine ground and 2 gauge copper cable to the body. All copper ends are soldered and “HEX” crimped for the best connection then adhesive lined shrink tubing is installed for protection along with boots for the battery and alternator. Flame retardent loom is installed on the positive cables. New starter cable clamps and stainless steel studs and nuts for mounting the cables to the battery.
Cables are built using 1/0 gauge copper cable for the starter, 2 gauge copper cable for the alternator and 2 gauge copper cable to the junction box, 1/0 gauge copper cable for the engine ground and 2 gauge copper cable to the body. All copper ends are soldered and “HEX” crimped for the best connection then adhesive lined shrink tubing is installed for protection along with boots for the battery and alternator. Flame retardent loom is installed on the positive cables. New starter cable clamps and stainless steel studs and nuts for mounting the cables to the battery.
02-17-2015, 02:20 PM
#5
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it's the same as the "big 3" just with the additional wires. I had it easy, I have a Redtop battery which gives me a TOP POST terminal and so I went over to Knukonceptz and got there top post terminals to do mine each has 3 connections on it, used one to fuse block, one to alternator and the other for the Amplifiers (left the stock starter and stock battery to fuse block wires in place on the side post).
this pic was taken after I removed the wiring for the amp.
this pic was taken after I removed the wiring for the amp.
02-17-2015, 02:47 PM
#6
While it is just wiring, I don't think I would have enjoyed this as a DIY project...
I did the Big 3 a while back, and I purchased it from a company that I think was a sponsor on here. Anyway, the wire is *thick*. The lug terminals are thicker, and I cannot even imagine trying to make them and achieving equivalent quality without a lot of trial and error.
Here was the kit I used:
This was their description of the kit:
I did the Big 3 a while back, and I purchased it from a company that I think was a sponsor on here. Anyway, the wire is *thick*. The lug terminals are thicker, and I cannot even imagine trying to make them and achieving equivalent quality without a lot of trial and error.
Here was the kit I used:
This was their description of the kit:
I couldnt imagine trying to crimp anything the way I normally do with a pair of vice grips lol