Dead passengar side DRL So the other day my right side DRL went out. No problem, just replace the bulb right? So I did that and it's still dead (parking lights work, just the brighter DRL light/turn signal doesn't). So I got a new flasher. Still dead. Tore out my head unit to get to the DRL module and bypassed it altogether, never liked them on anyway (connected the turn signal inputs directly to the turn signal outputs). Again, driver side works fine, passenger side dead. Pulled out the voltmeter and checked the sockets. With car on, handbrake off driver side was getting 12V (this was before disabling DRL module), passenger side was getting .3V. No bueno. Thinking it was the socket I pulled the wire out and still just got .5V. At this point the only thing left to conclude is that it's a chaffed wire somewhere or bad ground, right? I've basically done everything else you can do to troubleshoot DRL problems :lol: |
I'd make sure you are testing the socket wire with multiple ground options first and then check the voltage at the DRL module. It's not unheard of for the module to go bad. |
Originally Posted by wssix99
(Post 18715531)
I'd make sure you are testing the socket wire with multiple ground options first and then check the voltage at the DRL module. It's not unheard of for the module to go bad. |
How did you do the bypass? |
Originally Posted by wssix99
(Post 18715871)
How did you do the bypass? |
Can you test the wires where you made that bypass? That should confirm definitively if there is a cut in the wire. |
Originally Posted by wssix99
(Post 18716572)
Can you test the wires where you made that bypass? That should confirm definitively if there is a cut in the wire. |
So apparently the problem was a burnt out socket. Pulled out the connector and it was all corroded which explains why when I measured it I wasn't getting any voltage. Got a new socket from autozone for $8, wired it up and everything is working perfectly now :D |
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