- Camaro and Firebird Broken Stereo Diagnostic Guide<br>Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions.
Door tweeters not working
I recently changed all 4 speakers in my 2002 Firebird convertible. The only problem is the front tweeters are silent. I don't know if they were working before; I just got the car, and knew the sound had degraded over time.
I wired the speakers according to the instructions from CDT and Mr. Kee. I don't think any of the tweeters are defective. Since there is Voltage present in the blue plug, and all the other speakers are working fine, I presume the Monsoon amp is OK.
Oddly, my front tweeters did not have an inline "filter" in the door panel. I bought a replacement set of door panels which did have the filter, and they don't work, either. Nor do the CDT tweeters wired with the striped wire as +, with or without the CDT crossovers.
Please note that Mr. Kee has offered suggestions, and I have no issue with him.
Anybody know how much mV should be present at the blue plug?
Should I be testing for amperage instead?
Could the amount of current/voltage I have be insufficient to drive any tweeter?
Thanks
Left door
- tweeter positive: black
- tweeter negative: yellow
- mid positive: dark blue
- mid negative: light blue
Right door
- tweeter positive: light green
- tweeter negative: purple
- mid positive: orange
- mid positive: dark green
The speakers often have a pigtail harness with only red and black wires connected to the speakers so you have to go further back in the harness to find the colors listed above.
There will be no inline filters in the wiring because it's a convertible. Only Firebird coupes have inline filters because the tweeters are powered directly by the head unit. All other models (Firebird convertibles and all Camaros) have all speakers running off the Monsoon amp which provides the signal filtering internally. The door panels you bought must have been from a coupe. DO NOT use the crossovers that came with the CDT speakers.
Once you have confirmed that the correct wires are connected but the tweeters still don't work, try switching them (connect the mids to the tweeter wires and the tweeters to the mid wires). If the same speakers work/don't work (i.e. the mids work but the tweeters still don't even though they are connected to each others wiring) then you know the tweeters themselves are no good. But if the mids stop working and the tweeters start working then you know it's a signal problem on the tweeter wires. Don't crank up the volume when doing this test since you won't have proper signal filtering to the tweeters - but they'll be fine at low volume for testing purposes.
Your first suggestion brings this up: The (front) wires in my car don't match the colors in your table. No problems in the rear. Here's what I have:
Left tweeter + is tan
" " - is grey
Right " + is light green, as stated
" " - is green
These wires trace back to the harness with no splices. I haven't looked at the back of the HU yet.
Maybe I should post a poll to see if others have variations in their factory wiring.
I don't remember if I did everything you suggested as far as switching the wiring between components, but I never got the tweeters to work with any combination of feed wires and crossovers. IIRC, not even with the mids, which work, as the feed wires. I mean either the factory tweeters or CDT's new tweeters. I probably tried to power the mids with the tweeter wires, not sure but I never got any joy from the tweeter feeds.
Using a multimeter on the right front tweeter wires at the blue plug, I got between 6 and 7 mV and between .51 and .60 mA. The polarity of the wires is correct. I hope that that signal is too weak to power anything, and I can assume that those channels are as good as dead. It just occurred to me to get the meter out again and check the rear speaker feeds, just for comparison. I have those panel off, but the door panels are back on.
Thanks again for your time.







