One more sub and amp question
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From: Va Bch, VA
One more sub and amp question Good Morning All,
I recently installed a double din Kenwood (DDX672). Kee Audio's Level 2.5 speaker package. I am happy with the setup, but want more. Of course. I would like to install a 10" sub in a stealth box on the driver's side. I'm not looking to spend a fortune on this, I don't need to shake the neighbor's windows. I found an ASC stealth box w/ a Kicker CVT10 10" Subwoofer Single 2 Ohm 400 Watts (10CVT10-2) on Amazon for $160. Add an amp for ~$50-$75 and we're in there. Will this setup be disappointing? Again, I just want to fill in the lower bass , I don't need ground shaking. Is there a better option around the same price? I have a $250 budget on this, don't really have wiggle room to go much higher. I am thinking about building the box myself to save $50 to use toward the amp and sub, if that $50 will net me a much better setup.
As far as wiring, I have a set of rca cables from a prior install. I also have a signal wire laying around. I just need the power cable and speaker wire. For this small setup, no need to expand in the future, what size wire do I need to run to the amp. Can I get by with 8 gauge? Is there a junction point inside the cab I can tie into to avoid punching through the firewall? Thinking about putting the amp under the passenger seat to reduce the length of the power cable, would then need to bump the speaker wire up a notch I imagine. What size speaker wire should I run for this?
Thanks for the help.
I recently installed a double din Kenwood (DDX672). Kee Audio's Level 2.5 speaker package. I am happy with the setup, but want more. Of course. I would like to install a 10" sub in a stealth box on the driver's side. I'm not looking to spend a fortune on this, I don't need to shake the neighbor's windows. I found an ASC stealth box w/ a Kicker CVT10 10" Subwoofer Single 2 Ohm 400 Watts (10CVT10-2) on Amazon for $160. Add an amp for ~$50-$75 and we're in there. Will this setup be disappointing? Again, I just want to fill in the lower bass , I don't need ground shaking. Is there a better option around the same price? I have a $250 budget on this, don't really have wiggle room to go much higher. I am thinking about building the box myself to save $50 to use toward the amp and sub, if that $50 will net me a much better setup.
As far as wiring, I have a set of rca cables from a prior install. I also have a signal wire laying around. I just need the power cable and speaker wire. For this small setup, no need to expand in the future, what size wire do I need to run to the amp. Can I get by with 8 gauge? Is there a junction point inside the cab I can tie into to avoid punching through the firewall? Thinking about putting the amp under the passenger seat to reduce the length of the power cable, would then need to bump the speaker wire up a notch I imagine. What size speaker wire should I run for this?
Thanks for the help.
Wire size depends completely on your amp, look at the fuse size for the amp your looking at and you can cross reference it with how much current a cable can handle at different lengths.
amp power cables MUST ALWAYS COME FROM THE BATTERY, NEVER anywhere else for a sub amp, as for getting thru the firewall you can come thru the main harness grommet under the computer on the passenger side of the engine bay. It is also NEVER suggested to mount an amp under a seat for several reasons (yes I know some have done it), a guy I know had his amp under the seat and his dad slid the seat back and pinched and shorted the power cable and set the interior on FIRE, also under the seat doesn't allow good ventilation (which amps NEED), it's better to have a longer run of power wire then a longer run of speaker wire as a general rule.
me personally I think anything that doesn't get you into the mid to high 130's (db) is disappointing and a small setup like that (especially the crap amps in that price range) would be disappointing to me but you might be OK with it.
also don't get a 2-channel amp (which i'm guessing based on your price point), the 2-channel amps are only rated for 4 ohms when bridged, best to keep to the mono channel sub amps, problem there is the price is a bit higher and most are a higher power output then that sub is rated for, but then again most of those are over rated because they aren't CEA2006 certified in that price range so you can't trust those numbers anyway.
amp power cables MUST ALWAYS COME FROM THE BATTERY, NEVER anywhere else for a sub amp, as for getting thru the firewall you can come thru the main harness grommet under the computer on the passenger side of the engine bay. It is also NEVER suggested to mount an amp under a seat for several reasons (yes I know some have done it), a guy I know had his amp under the seat and his dad slid the seat back and pinched and shorted the power cable and set the interior on FIRE, also under the seat doesn't allow good ventilation (which amps NEED), it's better to have a longer run of power wire then a longer run of speaker wire as a general rule.
me personally I think anything that doesn't get you into the mid to high 130's (db) is disappointing and a small setup like that (especially the crap amps in that price range) would be disappointing to me but you might be OK with it.
also don't get a 2-channel amp (which i'm guessing based on your price point), the 2-channel amps are only rated for 4 ohms when bridged, best to keep to the mono channel sub amps, problem there is the price is a bit higher and most are a higher power output then that sub is rated for, but then again most of those are over rated because they aren't CEA2006 certified in that price range so you can't trust those numbers anyway.
I have always used knukoceptz for wire you can buy any size by the foot along with whatever else you need for the install all at decent prices with great quality. I would use 4 gauge wire or larger, don't do 8 gauge.
Like DR said don't mount it under the seat it's just a bad idea. Amps need to get rid of the heat the produce. What's wrong with the back deck? Otherwise plenty of people make amp racks Specific for f body rears, any shop could do this too, or if your crafty you can make a amp rack for the price of the wood. If your going for a stealth look so you don't see it then you can mount it in the same place the monsoon amp is or in the spare tire well if your willing to ditch that.
As for the box definitely do it yourself if You can. I'd even say try fiberglassing a box yourself to maximize the airspace, and sealed is easy. Either way it will save you some cash that can get you a better amp or sub.
For$250 you can get some bass in your ride. If you aren't bothered by buying used you can save a bunch. It sounds like you just want a sub and amp and don't care much about how it sounds. Any decent 10" sub off 500 real watts of power will get you what your looking for and then some.
Oh yea and get a class d mono amp for subs
Like DR said don't mount it under the seat it's just a bad idea. Amps need to get rid of the heat the produce. What's wrong with the back deck? Otherwise plenty of people make amp racks Specific for f body rears, any shop could do this too, or if your crafty you can make a amp rack for the price of the wood. If your going for a stealth look so you don't see it then you can mount it in the same place the monsoon amp is or in the spare tire well if your willing to ditch that.
As for the box definitely do it yourself if You can. I'd even say try fiberglassing a box yourself to maximize the airspace, and sealed is easy. Either way it will save you some cash that can get you a better amp or sub.
For$250 you can get some bass in your ride. If you aren't bothered by buying used you can save a bunch. It sounds like you just want a sub and amp and don't care much about how it sounds. Any decent 10" sub off 500 real watts of power will get you what your looking for and then some.
Oh yea and get a class d mono amp for subs
