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reprogramming alarm is not working

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Old Sep 25, 2016 | 10:35 AM
  #1  
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Default reprogramming alarm is not working

First, my apologies for starting a new thread for my existing problem but someone closed my original post before it was resolved.

My 2002 Firebird 3.8L was in the shop and had the Engine control module (per the receipt) replaced and reprogrammed. Ever since, the factory alarm sets itself simply by my exiting the car without pressing any lock buttons.

I have gone through the steps in the owner's manual to reprogram it from mode 4, but nothing changes. I have set it to each mode one at a time 1, 2, and 3, trying to get it to work (3 is the desired mode), and each time when I exit the programming, test exiting the car, find it has not changed, re-enter programming mode and the first press of the unlock button does reveal how I had it set, yet it acts the same no matter which mode it is set for. It acts as if it is in mode 4 constantly.

My daughter has the same exact car except hers is a GT and I went through the same motions on hers and the changes work so I know I am doing it right.

Suggestions? Could something be wring with the Body control module? The driver's side window had fallen down during the tow to the shop and I understand the BCM resides in the door
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Old Sep 26, 2016 | 11:44 AM
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Sorry about that. I may have inadvertently closed the other thread when I was contemplating moving it to the Stereo and Electronics section. (I moved away from that when you said you were sure the PCM (or ECM) was replaced.) https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...t-working.html

I will move this one to Stereo & Electronics where we'll have more experts see the thread who are experienced with programming the BCM.

The BCM is under the interior of the dash, so it should have been unaffected from the window dropping during your tow.

Are you sure that the BCM wasn't messed with while it was in the shop? Did you take the car to a GM dealer or an independent shop?
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Old Sep 26, 2016 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
Sorry about that. I may have inadvertently closed the other thread when I was contemplating moving it to the Stereo and Electronics section. (I moved away from that when you said you were sure the PCM (or ECM) was replaced.) https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...t-working.html

I will move this one to Stereo & Electronics where we'll have more experts see the thread who are experienced with programming the BCM.

The BCM is under the interior of the dash, so it should have been unaffected from the window dropping during your tow.

Are you sure that the BCM wasn't messed with while it was in the shop? Did you take the car to a GM dealer or an independent shop?
Thanks! To my knowledge the BCM has been fine although my son mentioned wondering if it was going bad when I told him that for the past 3 years the headlights pop up/down when locking/unlocking the doors with the FOB. The left light has a loud noise when doing so. I had been told by the shop it was the headlight motor and due to the expense I have put it off and choose to keep the car unlocked. Which is why this new problem, with it passively arming, is such a PITA because the headlights are getting an extra workout

Strange I cannot get the theft system to reprogram even though when I enter programming mode and press the unlock button, it does beep the number I programmed it to (have tried all 4 settings) yet my daughter's car programs fine. The only difference is that mine has more miles (111k) and had that ECM replaced (it wouldn't run) which needed programmed, and that is when the problem started.

I take it to an ASA certified independent shop, have used them for 10 years although their quality is going downhill the past year because they are extremely busy and have new people. When I talked to them about the problem, they checked to see if there was something extra needed to program accessories after the ECM swap and then they concluded it might be the shock sensor being loose or a bad BCM (they said it was in the door but I later read it is where you said it is)
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Old Sep 26, 2016 | 08:23 PM
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These cars are getting to the point in their age that it's really difficult for a "modern day" technician to service them because they are unlike many of the newer cars on the road. (I'm sure that's where the bit about the BCM, etc. being in the door comes from.) You may check out the location-specific forums here and see if there is a shop in your area that specializes more in Firebirds - but electrical work is always going to be expensive/tricky...

Originally Posted by racergrl2412
for the past 3 years the headlights pop up/down when locking/unlocking the doors with the FOB. The left light has a loud noise when doing so. I had been told by the shop it was the headlight motor and due to the expense I have put it off and choose to keep the car unlocked.
The shop is correct on this one. This is due to the headlight motor gear being stripped. If you have someone with basic mechanic skills, they can get a new plastic gear for less than $5 (using epoxy to put the motor case back together) and be good-as-new. BTW - I'm not a fan of the $50 metal gear option. They strip out, also. This thread is long but has a lot of good information on this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html

If you spend a little more money, you can get the full motors from a parts store. Here is my experience with them: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ght-doors.html (The quality of the wires is much better these days.) They aren't too hard to install with basic wrenches - IMO - paying a mechanic to do this is a rip-off.
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Old Sep 26, 2016 | 10:28 PM
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I will definitely look for a local shop in here, that would be an awesome find. Thanks! And thanks for the info on the headlights, esp since the shop estimate was nearly $500
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Old Sep 27, 2016 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by racergrl2412
I will definitely look for a local shop in here, that would be an awesome find. Thanks! And thanks for the info on the headlights, esp since the shop estimate was nearly $500
What part of Florida are you in?

The inexpensive headlight option (to replace the gear with a new plastic one) is a $5-$20 chance at fixing things. If you go that route, you should plan for failure. Sometimes the motors are falling apart, which causes the gear to strip and they just strip the new gear. The Cardone Select motors (don't get reman motors for this repair!) should run you $150 for both and take a low-skilled mechanic less than 45 minutes to install. If you are your son want to take a shot at it, the folks here can definitely give advice.
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Old Sep 27, 2016 | 03:48 PM
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The BCM should not have been affected by PCM replacement and/or programming. The BCM itself is not programmable other than for the options you can set for keyless entry and the factory alarm (if equipped).

It is unlikely that the shock sensor is causing the problem. They are known to go bad due to moisture but the common symptom is the alarm triggering randomly rather than anything to do with the arming.

Is it possible that there is an aftermarket alarm installed in the vehicle? It is not uncommon for shops to install better alarm systems and since the factory system is integrated into the BCM (i.e. it can't be physically removed) they just program it separately. This is the possibility that best fits the described symptoms. It appears that your BCM is taking your programming inputs - when you go back into programming mode it gives you the correct option number that you last set - and it would be very unlikely for it to respond with the correct option in programming mode but not in actual use. This is especially true if you set option 1 (alarm off) and confirm that when you exit and go back into programming mode it responds with only one chime yet you still end up with an armed alarm.

The only other likely possibility is that the BCM itself is somehow hopelessly messed up. Other than a couple of small fixes of some cold solder joints related to the retained accessory power circuit, the BCM is not repairable. Replacing it is quite simple... remove the old one, plug in the new one and slide it into its slot under the dash behind the glove box - it will automatically match itself to the first ignition key used to start the car.
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