security light question
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
From: Rubber Capital of the World
security light question I have a 1998 Trans Am. When I started it today, the security light stayed on. It has never done this before. I turned the car off, got out and shut the door. I cycled the locked and unlock functions on the remote. Started the car again and the light stayed on. After about a minute, it went out. Drove the car a couple places with no issues, started fine every time. I have done a search, but haven't really found anything on this exact issue. For some background, when we bought the car in '02, it came with one aftermarket key fob, which is a DEI Python. I do not know the rest of the history of the security/alarm system as far as if it is aftermarket or factory with an aftermarket fob. Before getting it out of winter storage, I replaced all pulleys and tensioners along with an updated alt bracket and new alternator while I was in there. All that is working fine. We took the car out a couple weeks ago. While trying to unlock the car, I hit the fob unlock button twice, being used to my GM Buick fob, to unlock all doors while my wife was getting in ( I thought I was lucky enough to drive). Gave her the keys and she went to start it, and the alarm went off. Got that reset and had no problems (don't know if that debacle is related). Is this a sign of the VATS problem or could it be something else?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The security light in the instrument cluster is part of VATS and not related to any alarm system - factory or aftermarket. The light will be on solid when VATS sees a key resistor that isn't the correct value. The light will flash if VATS doesn't see a key resistor at all. You are lucky - the system will assume a system fault if the wrong key value is seen while the car is running so it won't prevent restarting the car. If it had seen the wrong value before starting the car, it would not have allowed the car to start until the problem was corrected. You need to get this fixed before you disconnect your battery for any reason or you will likely be unable to start the car afterwards.
The most common cause of the wrong reading is simply dirt and grime on the contacts. Clean the contacts on your ignition key using a pencil eraser followed by some rubbing alcohol. Clean the contacts inside the ignition cylinder using some electronics cleaner and a pipe cleaner. You can get the spray electronics cleaner at Radio Shack (#64-4345). Pipe cleaners are sold at arts and craft stores.
If that doesn't work then you probably have worn contacts on the key or in the ignition cylinder. Try a spare key or get a new one cut before spending the time and money on replacing the ignition cylinder.
Of course, another option is to bypass VATS using the appropriate combination of resistors in the connector at the base of the steering column.
The most common cause of the wrong reading is simply dirt and grime on the contacts. Clean the contacts on your ignition key using a pencil eraser followed by some rubbing alcohol. Clean the contacts inside the ignition cylinder using some electronics cleaner and a pipe cleaner. You can get the spray electronics cleaner at Radio Shack (#64-4345). Pipe cleaners are sold at arts and craft stores.
If that doesn't work then you probably have worn contacts on the key or in the ignition cylinder. Try a spare key or get a new one cut before spending the time and money on replacing the ignition cylinder.
Of course, another option is to bypass VATS using the appropriate combination of resistors in the connector at the base of the steering column.
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland, OH
The most common cause of the wrong reading is simply dirt and grime on the contacts. Clean the contacts on your ignition key using a pencil eraser followed by some rubbing alcohol. Clean the contacts inside the ignition cylinder using some electronics cleaner and a pipe cleaner. You can get the spray electronics cleaner at Radio Shack (#64-4345). Pipe cleaners are sold at arts and craft stores.
If that doesn't work then you probably have worn contacts on the key or in the ignition cylinder. Try a spare key or get a new one cut before spending the time and money on replacing the ignition cylinder.
Of course, another option is to bypass VATS using the appropriate combination of resistors in the connector at the base of the steering column.
If that doesn't work then you probably have worn contacts on the key or in the ignition cylinder. Try a spare key or get a new one cut before spending the time and money on replacing the ignition cylinder.
Of course, another option is to bypass VATS using the appropriate combination of resistors in the connector at the base of the steering column.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
From: Rubber Capital of the World
I do have a spare that I had made long time ago, but haven't used. Tried that later after the issues and it seems to work with no problems. If I decide to replace the ignition cylinder, should that cure any issues at this point?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
If using the spare key resolved the problem then I doubt replacing the ignition cylinder will be of any further help. It sounds like the key was the problem all along. If the ignition cylinder was bad then switching keys wouldn't have made any difference. I still recommend cleaning it and getting a new spare key would probably be a good idea as well.
