Amplifier Upgrade
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 186
Likes: 27
From: Pensacola, Florida
Amplifier Upgrade I wanted to replace my factory monsoon amp. but I wanted one that would work with the H/U and speakers that I have already replaced. Here is a list of what I have: Door speakers- CDT-CL-61CV.2- 6.5" 2ohm mids and CDT TW-19 3/4" silk dome tweeters, I have the CDT HD-2500 2 way filters installed but only for the tweeters. Rear sail panels, CDT HD-6MDVC, 6.5" mid bass. Rear hatch, CDT TW25, 1", 4ohm silk dome tweeters connected to CDT EX-430 high pass filter, and CDT CL-4, Classic series 4" 4ohm mid bass. The H/U is an Alpine CDE-W265BT. Does know of a good amp for this set up? Thanks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Most aftermarket amps are four (or five) channels so you're going to have to do some rewiring but you should expect to do that anyways since the factory wiring is not a good choice for a replacement amp. Look for an amp that is 2-ohm stable then wire the dual voice coils of the subs in parallel to produce a 2-ohm load. Do the same for the front mids and tweeters (maintaining the filters of course). The hatch speakers are more problematic. If you wire them in parallel with your now two ohm subs then you end up with 1.33 ohms which many amps will not support. About the only way to make it work is to wire the sub voice coils in series (making 8 ohms) then wire those in parallel with the hatch speakers making 2.67 ohms overall.
As far as specific brands, stay away from Boss and Pyle or any other off-brand then choose based on what best fits your power needs and budget. Don't forget to include RCA and power cables along with speaker wiring in your budget.
As far as specific brands, stay away from Boss and Pyle or any other off-brand then choose based on what best fits your power needs and budget. Don't forget to include RCA and power cables along with speaker wiring in your budget.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 186
Likes: 27
From: Pensacola, Florida
Thanks for the info, Isn't parallel where you connect both+ together, and then both negatives together so that you only have 1 positive and 1 negative coming out? What if I replaced the 6.5" 2ohms in the doors with the 4" 4 ohms from the back and just not use the rear hatch speakers. I ordered a sub box for an 8" but it hasn't arived yet, I haven't bought the 8" woofer yet. I plan on running all new wires to everything. What would you suggest for this setup, what ohm, 8" woofer should I use? I just googled paralle and series, and I can handle that no problem! I'll also be able to use all these brand new speakers I just bought! I'm riding to best buy to spend some more money. thanks again.
Last edited by br549; Jan 18, 2018 at 08:31 AM. Reason: update
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Yes, parallel is where you connect both positives together and both negatives together. Series is when you connect the negative on one to the positive on the other so that current flows through one speaker then the other before returning.
The doors shouldn't be a problem. Just connect the front speaker wires from the amp to the CDT crossover that came with the component set then connect the mids and tweeters from the crossover as originally intended (rather than using the crossover as just a high pass filter for the tweeters).
Eliminating the hatch speakers would resolve the impedance problem for the rear channels. If you get a 5-channel amp, you can run your added sub from the fifth channel. Or you could go with a 4-channel amp and a separate mono amp for the sub. Many aftermarket head units have a separate RCA output for running a sub through its own amp.
The doors shouldn't be a problem. Just connect the front speaker wires from the amp to the CDT crossover that came with the component set then connect the mids and tweeters from the crossover as originally intended (rather than using the crossover as just a high pass filter for the tweeters).
Eliminating the hatch speakers would resolve the impedance problem for the rear channels. If you get a 5-channel amp, you can run your added sub from the fifth channel. Or you could go with a 4-channel amp and a separate mono amp for the sub. Many aftermarket head units have a separate RCA output for running a sub through its own amp.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 186
Likes: 27
From: Pensacola, Florida
Thanks again, that's what i'm gonna do, get a 4 channel amp and not use the rears. I bought a JL Audio 10" sub and a JL Audio mono amp for my subthump driver side box yesterday, I'll pick up another JL 4 channel amp today. I also bought a Real soldering gun and threw the battery powered one I had in the garbage. I think give soldering another chance while I'm in there. If you hear anyone looking for those mids and tweets that I'm not using tell em to contact me, I'll try to post them in the classified section of this site ASAP. thanks
