Does a component set crossover split power?
Does a component set crossover split power? If a set of component speakers can handle 100W RMS, does that mean that the mid and the tweeter can handle 100W RMS each I.e tweeter is getting 100W of 5khz and up and the mid gets 100W of up to 4999hz? Or does the passive crossover also split power?
I am eventually getting a digital sound proceasor, so the passive crossovers will be useless. That is why I am asking.
I am eventually getting a digital sound proceasor, so the passive crossovers will be useless. That is why I am asking.
Last edited by FCar2000TA; Aug 17, 2019 at 08:19 PM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The power available is by channel from the amp regardless of how many speakers are attached to that channel and unrelated to how much power the speakers are rated to handle. If an amp can produce 100 watts RMS into each of four channels then each channel will get 100 watts whether you have a single coaxial speaker attached or a set of components or even a pair of subs. The power will be split between the speakers based on their current draw. If components (or separate speakers) have the same impedance then the power will be split evenly between them. If they have different impedance then the power will be split proportionately.
Ok, so 100W going to a set of components gets split up.
I am trying to decide which 5.25 components I can get now, then ditch the passive crossover down the road.when I have a DSP, but the mid needs to handle 75W RMS.
I do not care for staging sound in front, so I want some good mids/tweets in the hatch.
I am trying to decide which 5.25 components I can get now, then ditch the passive crossover down the road.when I have a DSP, but the mid needs to handle 75W RMS.
I do not care for staging sound in front, so I want some good mids/tweets in the hatch.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
It sounds like you may be over-thinking this a bit. Just buy speakers that can handle the output of your chosen amp. The fact that the power will get split between the components doesn't mean anything in the overall scheme of things. Besides, the hatch design of these cars is known for boosting the sound that reaches the front... that's why a small sub in a stealth box can be so effective in these cars. The same is true with regular speakers back there - you won't need a whole lot of power to make them quite noticeable, perhaps even to the point of sounding like a '70s stereo with 6x9s in the rear parcel shelf.
Door tweeters - 25W
Door 6.5 Mids - 75W
Hatch 5.25 components - 75W
Sails Mid-bass - bridged 220W
10" sub in the back - 350W
Last edited by FCar2000TA; Aug 21, 2019 at 12:38 PM.
