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My 94 does not have a BCM, it does have factory keyless TRW module that is on the fritz. I actually have two modules from previous cars and neither one is good all the way. I continuity tested both and one passes 1/3 tests the other 2/3 tests. What's funny when I look at the control board itself it does not appear to have any broken solder points I can see with the naked eye.
So my plan is to use a 451M relay setup and bypass it completely and use the viper alarm (3105V) that I just installed replacing an older viper setup for the controls. I *think* this is as straightforward as this to get it installed. I'll bring power from somewhere else to the relay I assume as everything I've read says don't use the power coming from the keyless black connector. I'll post more to document it here for others. As these cars age, these electronics systems are not available anymore. And I found one place that will refurb it, but wants 350!. Not worth it for my hobby car so bypass it is.
I plan on following this guide for the relay, but I won't cut the wires, I have a plug I will plug in and terminate these properly into a connector. This guide is generic in description, so I'll have to chase the wires a bit, will be easy since entire dash is out for the 97+ conversion in flight. Want to get this keyless working before I put the dash back in.
Anything I'm missing from anyone that has bypassed before?
I have the 451M module in. It's not quite like the wiring above. The two tan lines must be spliced and the gray needs to be used for lock. I'm not completely done, but will post pics, once I have it for others. I'm disassembling the connectors and will crimp proper terminals so it's plug and play. Also have new door lock actuators coming that I want to test for both doors. I believe my passenger actuator has completely died at this point because it was weak (would only lock, but didn't have the force to unlock) All the testing may have put it out of it's misery.
This helped me, I will copy/paste here and the link... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...o-keyless.html
from the thread... This applies to 94 & 95 model Camaros. It may work on a 93 model and Firebird's/Trans Ams, but I don't know that for sure.
After having to replace my keyless entry with an aftermarket setup I figured I'd save some people the hassle I went through finding out what I needed to know to make it work.
It is not a complete rundown of the locking system, but does let you know what you're working with.
The passenger switch is the control switch. The Driver's switch piggy backs off of this one and for the purpose of wiring up an aftermarket setup you will not need to do anything with it. All the wires that you need are in the passenger side kick panel where the Factory Keyless Entry TRW receiver is located.
The box is black and about 5"x7" in size and has two plugs attached. A small plug with 3 wires.
Pink = Ignition 12v Black = Hatch Release Black/White = Data Link Connection
Then there's the 8 Wire Plug.
Tan = Unlock passenger side only 2nd Tan = unlock driver side only Grey = Lock all to both solenoids Orange = 12v constant (stays hot even with car off) White = Illumination Black = Ground Orange/Black = Unlock to switch Red/Black = Lock to switch
Of these, for the locks alone, you need to use Orange/Black, Red/Black, Grey, & Tan.
To make them work without the receiver you will need to connect the Grey to the Red/Black and the Tan to the Orange/Black. Your locks will now work without the receiver by using the switch.
There are two Tan wires with no real way to distinguish between them. One is to unlock the driver's door only and the other to unlock passenger side only. If you hook one of the tan wires up to the Orange/Black and it only unlocks the driver's door then you know the other is the unlock passenger door wire. If your aftermarket receiver can take advantage of this function, mine couldn't , then you can wire it up as such if not you must connect both tan wires together to unlock both doors.
The whole circuit is set up for both the lock and unlock wires to be grounded unless the switch is moved. Once the switch is moved the connection on one side or the other is broken. 12v is applied and the side with the broken connection and the solenoids move. The side that the 12v comes from determines if the doors lock or unlock. If the wires are connected as described above, pressing the switch to lock will cause the Orange/Black and the Tan wire will show 12v, press the unlock and the Red/Black and Grey wire will show 12v.
To make the switch work manually, disconnect the Orange/Black & Tan from each other while leaving the Red/Black & Grey connected. Then apply 12v to the Tan wire and the solenoid will move to the unlocked position. Likewise, if you separate the connection between the Red/Black & Grey and apply 12 volts to the Grey wire and the solenoids will move to the lock position, but only if the Orange/Black & Tan are still connected to each other.
To activate the hatch release you will need to apply 12v to the black wire of the 3 wire connector.
I hope this helps explain what you'll need to know when working on the factory keyless entry system, or installing an alarm/keyless entry combo. Even though I don't get into the wiring an alarm would require.
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bypassing the 94 keyless entry module 
